dual battery

Submitted: Thursday, Jul 18, 2013 at 23:34
ThreadID: 103307 Views:2445 Replies:4 FollowUps:3
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Hi Guys
Been awhile since I have been on the forum.
Returned from Great Ocean Road and Murrey River, but the laptop was next to USELESS so give up trying to keep in touch.
Now planning to update A'Van to caravan and have updated to a Triton Dual Cab, very pleased with the buy.
We hope to have a canopy fitted next week, after a six week wait. I am well into making up a fridge slide and drawer (with help from this forum and others).
I have the brake controller fitted. Then to finish I want to fit a dual battery setup into the well. The second battery is to keep the Engel running when on the road and possibly power a caravan fridge at the same time (??????). When camped I will use my solar panel or a 240v charger. So what are the thoughts on just fitting an isolator type setup using the 6bs cable etc.Looking on e--y I could pick up for around $140

Thanks Guys
Have a great weekend
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Reply By: two_ks - Friday, Jul 19, 2013 at 01:13

Friday, Jul 19, 2013 at 01:13
Hi Brian R,
I have just fitted a Derek Bester battery management system in our 79 series cruiser, no room in engine bay for aux. battery, mounted it in the aluminium canopy, ran a heavy battery cable back to the isolator in the engine bay, flick a switch on the battery monitor in the cab to bring aux battery on line as a starting battery.
From+ junction block under the canopy run a + cable to the rear of the vehicle for a caravan battery top up.
Brilliant system from Derek, $160.00 plus postage.Check out his web site for extra wiring diagrams.
A very satisfied return customer from the great state, WA
AnswerID: 514990

Follow Up By: Member - Brian R (WA) - Friday, Jul 19, 2013 at 16:49

Friday, Jul 19, 2013 at 16:49
Thanks Ken
Derek seems to be a good bet will look in to hiw web site
FollowupID: 794184

Reply By: Member - Vince B (NSW) - Friday, Jul 19, 2013 at 06:47

Friday, Jul 19, 2013 at 06:47
Hi Brian.
I installed a DBI 120 from Derek to power the second battery. Works well & excellent service from Derek.
AnswerID: 514992

Reply By: Sand Man (SA) - Friday, Jul 19, 2013 at 07:45

Friday, Jul 19, 2013 at 07:45

You know the old saying, "you get what you pay for"?

A couple of replies have mentioned an isolator solution from Derek Bester of Sidewinder fame. Whilst this may be OK, you still need to locate and secure a second battery somewhere.

Derek also has a much better solution on his web site in the form of a Sidewinder Flyer.
This intelligent box includes a built-in isolator to control the operation of dual batteries, whilst still being able to charge them.
You just add an AGM battery of your choice (I use a 100Ah Remco) and the kit includes the appropriate size charging cable and circuit protection.

The Flyer has three 12v outlets. One Hella style outlet is suitable to connect your fridge to and another Anderson connector outlet, is ideal to connect up the van cable to, should you need to charge any batteries that may be in the van. This is achieved via a patch lead also available from Sidewinder.

Sidewinder Flyer


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AnswerID: 514995

Follow Up By: Member - Brian R (WA) - Friday, Jul 19, 2013 at 16:58

Friday, Jul 19, 2013 at 16:58
Thanks guys
I do want to keep things basic and of cause to a budget.
I think, by your replies, that I am on the right track :-)
I have seen the Flyer idea and thought it was a bit more than I wanted to go.....but by the time I buy a battery box, make up those type of connections on a panel??// it mabe the way to go ,,,PLUG and PLAY
seems to be the go today.
Connecting to a caravan....is probably a bridge I will cross when we find the van....who knows may be lucky to find one with all the right setup
Brian R
FollowupID: 794185

Reply By: Member - Frank P (NSW) - Friday, Jul 19, 2013 at 16:00

Friday, Jul 19, 2013 at 16:00

Presumably your fridge in your new van will be a 3-way. If so, your fridge will draw somewhere around 10-15 amps when in 12V. You should run your 6 B&S all the way back to a distribution point in the van. The wiring from your caravan fridge to the distribution point should be as heavy as reasonably possible (8B&S, perhaps). Same for the negative from the fridge!

It's not quite so critical for a compressor fridge as they draw much less current.

Also, if you intend to charge a battery in the van, particularly if it's a deep cycle, while driving then you probably need a dc-dc charger in the van, especially if the fridge is pulling the voltage at the end of the 6 B&S line down.



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AnswerID: 515035

Follow Up By: Member - Wozikev - Friday, Jul 19, 2013 at 18:06

Friday, Jul 19, 2013 at 18:06
Good post Brian, I agree absolutely. I've got two 8b&s leads from my vehicle to the van. One goes to the 3 way fridge and no-where else and the other goes to a Redarc BMS unit which looks after the charge in two on board 85 amp Remco batteries. The fridge can only get 12v from a running vehicle and none from the storage batteries. Stopped I'm on gas or 240v. It all works a treat. My golden rule with 12v is - use the biggest wire that will fit in the hole !!. I've even been known to change things out to get a bigger hole to fit the wire.

My two bobs worth. Cheers ...................... Kev.
FollowupID: 794187

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