Boat trailer preparation for trip around OZ

The boat trailers I saw up around the Gulf this year were running 16'' wheels and tyres. Guards were well secured ( those that wern't fell off) and good stone protection.

Springs were the next major hassel, make sure they are a heavy duty spring pack with shackles not slipper.

Trailers need to be bullet proof for tracks up around the Gulf. If carrying the motor attached it has to be well braced on a strong transom, don't over load the boat with gear when travelling. On a 4.6 boat 50hp gets you out to mouth of rivers a lot quicker but be prepared to carry plenty of fuel. Fishing the Towns river a tank and a half would be used a day.

Hope this helps a bit.

What suspension would you choose for your tug, or anything else?
Think likewise for the boat trailer.
Long travel suspension plus shock absorbers for a start, off road hitch so rolling the boat does not destroy the tug.
Wheels and tyres identical to the tug.
Mount the motor well, OFF the boat.
Strap the boat down in several places.
Spare prop (plus the nut and washers) and tools to change it on the water.
High quality, large capacity fuel filter and separate spare fuel tank.
Wooden plugs for holes in the hull.
Bimini.

Plastic boat (this is a MAC) we took from Brisbane to the Kimberley.



Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 Motorhome

Hi Clinton

I tow a work boat around the Gulf and Cape for a living and have done so for over 12 years. You don't mention whether you are planning to go serious off-road or just on dirt and corrugations?

My trailer has a very solid frame (main frame 100mmx40mm) with extra supports (teflon covered timber slides, not rollers) for the boat. Try to support the hull over long runs where possible as small pressure points lead to cracks.

For suspension I have leaf springs on shackles and shock absorbers. The springs should not be stiff and any hard jolt gets transferred through the boat. Mine were set up by a spring specialist. I would also suggest getting an axle rated at least one size stronger than you need. I have bent one when hitting dust holes (unexpectedly) which only shows up later when one tyre wears unevenly. It is cheap to replace and worth doing. I have a solid square axle.

As for wheels and hubs I have always used hubs that take the larger Ford bearings and 14 inch Holden rims with LT rated commercial tyres. While larger wheels can be better over bumps they also are heavy, make the spare difficult to carry, put more stress on bearings unless the hubs are also uprated and make it difficult to launch as the boat is so high off the water.

I have a standard strap across the back and a turn-buckle at the front to keep the nose locked in place so the weight is not on the winch. If you can keep the total weight below 750kg you can also avoid brakes which are a real pain in dust, mud and corrugations.

Hope this helps a bit.

pay attention to everything...note that most boat trailers are barely adequate for the short trip from home to the ramp on good sealed roads.

pay particular attebtion to how the boat is supported and restrained.

The winch rope and a strap over the top never was adequate and certainly is not under current load restraint guidelines...even for the short trip to the local ramp.

Do not rely on the winch post alone to secure the boat ( unless it is very solid), you should have a heavy chain ( not the safety chain) securing the bow of the boat and preventing it from rideing forward and up....There are any numper of pictures on the net with boats sitting in the roof of the tow vehicle after a winch post failure.......I run a chain both forward and back to the bow.

look carfully at the bunks and rollers.....make sure they support the boat across its strong parts and not between the ribs.
more rollers, bigger bunks and all supporting evenly.
you can double the support on your keel on most trailers by taking the roller out of the supports and fitting a seesaw and two rollers in its place

As for the tiedown.....some methods of tie down are ripping the hull appart by the gunwals......its is surprisnly easy to pull a boat appart by pulling down on the gunwals...that are not very strong this way.

A friend of my nephew had his boat relocated by the removal company as part of the army relocation package......he expceted it to be transported on a car carrier...the removal company just hitched it up behind the removals van and proceeded to drive down the inland route thru Charters and and Belyando crossing.

By the time it got to brisbane the whole rig was comprehensively F$#@!d and both where written off....the rollers where bashed into the keel, small bunks had punched holes in the hull and numerous other damage.
And this was on suposedly sealed highway.


long distance inland touring needs a much stronger and better considered trailer than you see most boats on.

cheers