Rear GU Door Rattel

Is it still under warranty? If so take it back and get them to fix it and keep on doing it till it is fixed!!!!!!!!

Brian

Brent,
I have a 2000 GU and the large of the 2 back doors needs to be slammed hard to get it to seat properly. I was also concerned about premature wear of the hinges due to the weight of the spare. This concern, coupled with my desire to carry an extra spare and have a stronger rear bar led me to purchase an Opposite Lock dual wheel carrier assembly. Highly recommend it.
Also, check that your jack is securely mounted and not rattling etc. There isn't much inside the back door that can rattle, but I did pull the plugs out that control the interior light switches on both back cargo doors. They often failed to turn the lights off and I can see no reason to have them connected.....usually if you get out at night to get something out of the back, then the driver/passenger door may be open anyway, so the interior lights will be on.
In my case too, I removed the interior trim off the larger door and have made up a hinged/fold-down bench using existing holes. Handy for a quick roadside cuppa stop or whatever.
Cheers,
Roachie

There is a knob in the middle of the dash, keep turning it to the right when driving until noise / rattle stops. On some modles a switch with a arrow pointing up ,when pushed a few times will do the same thing.

Wayne

I too have a "rattle" coming from the back at various speeds. Its something in the roof / lining at the back and sounds different to what you are describing. I have traced it to the roof lining and it appears to stop when a hand is placed on the lining. As I have a cargo barrier, I plan (but haven't got around to it yet) to put a packer on the cargo barrier to the roof lining.

Initially I wondered if perhaps the roof crossbrace/support was not properly spot welded to the roof and was vibrating. I haven't got around to removing the lining to have a look.

My rattle does not appear to originate from the rear doors like yours. I have a fitted a spacer for a 285/75 tyre + worklight +HF autotune antenae and there is a fair bit of extra weight there. Have been keeping an eye out for "issues" but touch wood, all is OK back there.

Cheers

MarkNissan 2003 GU 3.0TD
Windsor Rapid Offroad

Brent , I had similar problem with a GU that towed a horse float , it was a crack on the inner panel that had brocken . We didnt find it untill the crach came throught to the outside .

Case 2

remover rear door trim to find part of the lock mechanism had come off and was hitting the door skin

Case 3

Rear doors were found not closing properly and was only on the first stage of the lock , it was all fine after some adjustment

these are 3 seperate incidents on 3 diffrent vehiclesVenus Bay

Just turn the radio up like i do as iv'ed tried for 3 years to stop my rattle to no avail.Regards Bob
Where to next

I found the number plate caused a rattle and I stopped it by placing rubber backing between the plate and housing.
Cheers P Guy.

NIssan fixed my rattle under warranty, but it came back later - drove me nuts. I was able to fix it by adusting the top and bottom catches fixed to the body. Big Philips driver needed. I found that the lower door catch needed to go in a bit and the upper catch was not locking properly. This top catch not locking was the main source of the squeak. This can be checked by pulling on the top of the door, and seeing if it moves in/out or not.
Also I found that inside the large door, a section of double-skin was chafing between the two skins (detected when pushing hard in the centre of the large door, causing a loud creaking noise). Managed to force a thin sheet of plastic between the two sheets of metal, and creaking stopped. But the main source was the adjustment of the doors. This also affects the interior light switch.
But really, if it's under warranty, if the bloody dealer won't/can't fix it, send a blister off to Nissan Aust.
Gerry.