tool/spares kit for the big trip?

Hi Craig,

Generally I agree with Muzbry, but from your profile description I see it is a 2008 vehicle, not brand new. So I would definitely be doing some preventative maintenance before leaving. I think this far more important than carrying a whole workshop with you.

Have a good mechanic do a thorough inspection and carry out any needed maintenance. Belts and rubber hoses do age so replace them all as a precaution, including the heater hoses. You could carry the old ones as a back-up if you wish. Also carry some new hose clamps.... the old ones sometimes don't work too well. Fuel supplies can be contaminated from remote places so certainly carry a spare fuel filter. An air filter is not necessary as it can be adequately cleaned en route if need be.

Unless you are going into very remote locations alone, I consider there is no need to carry extensive spares. We do go rough & remote so do carry a few serious spares such as a wheel bearings and shockers but no matter how much you carry you could still be caught out by the failure of a component that you did not carry so where do you stop?

As for tools, well again you shouldn't need a complete workshop. After all you only need the tools that you are capable of using and to fit the spares that you are carrying. My whole toolkit fits within a canvas toolbag and comprises a range of screwdrivers, pliers, side cutters, 1/2 dozen each of open end and ring spanners, socket set with extensions, adjustable wrenches, locking pliers, hammer etc.

For electrical there is a multimeter, 12v test lamp, some cable, a range of connectors both crimp and screw, crimp tool, fuses and tapes. Then several tubes of silicon and epoxy putty. A range of cable ties are invaluable, especially larger ones. I do not carry spare lamps, failure of a lamp will not stop you.

As we do go rough & remote, I also carry a very comprehensive tyre repair kit and a spare tube apart from a complete second spare wheel. However a plug-type tyre repair kit will get you out of simple punctures. A good 12v air compressor is an absolute essential. Not only will you need it to reinflate a punctured tyre but also to adjust your tyre pressures to suit the varying terrains you will encounter. This is most important so swot up on it if you you do not already know.

One unusual thing carried is welding equipment operated from the 12v car batteries, and it has been needed when a radius control arm separated from the front axle housing! But I would't urge it on everyone.

Recovery gear needs to be considered also.Winches and all their accessories may be important in the High Country but not always useful in the Outback where there are no trees. Clumsy ground anchors are impractical and burying spare wheels as anchors is quite a task. MaxTrax or similar are easy to carry and pretty effective at getting you out of a bog. A snatch strap and the knowledge to use it are useful, but relies on a second vehicle. Be sure that you have a good jack that will fit and lift sufficiently...... try it out at home. A High Lift jack should not be necessary. They are heavy, clumsy and somewhat dangerous. And don't forget a long-handled shovel... not a little folding type. Oh, and a canvas rubbish bag on the rear spare to carry your rubbish out to a disposal point.

Exactly what Allan B said!. Its useless carrying spares you dont know how to fit and if you start carrying too many spares then you run the risk of overloading your vehicle. (Ive had clowns tell me I need to carry a spare rear leaf and shocker for my cruiser. No idea what they were on!) All my tools fit into a standard size tool box and fit in a spot I don't need to access regularly. The big thing is to practice using the stuff. Get a stuffed tyre, drill a hole in it then practice fixing it, if you only carry a case as a second spare then practice fitting it. You Tube make it look easy.

fuel filters are a must, belts hoses and some pre packed bearings for the camper just in case, work the rest out as you go around

If you choose to carry some electrical cable, a few terminals of various sizes and types and crimping pliers - the cheap ones will be good enough to get you home.

I have found a small gas soldering iron and solder and heat-shrink of various sizes to be invaluable.

Self-amalgamating tape (Rescue Tape) has many purposes - electrical, hose repair etc.

Cheers

Gday Bob,
Hope all is well in your neck of the woods.
Unfortunately, such is progress, but the 200series doesn't have king pin bearings and the wheel bearings are totally sealed, and unservicable! Good news is that wheel bearing failures are virtually unheard of. Its one of the reasons I made to move to own one - I was sick and tired of servicing wheel bearings.

The fuel filters are cheap and easy to replace - just need a hex key!
The "belts" that are mentioned above is a single serpentine belt with a self adjuster, again, never heard of one failing.
Hoses seem to last forever these days too.
There are a few known weak points - the CV joints can break if you lift the front suspension the full 50mm and drive it hard. The early models can crack the power steering banjo on the rack. Later models had a stronger part. Water pumps can leak in normal time - say around 120k plus, but not worth carrying a spare. Alternators can fail from dirt water immersion - on older vehicles a spare might be useful, or at least a strategy for dealing with it.

Cheers
phil

Can't complain up here, Phil. Life's good, hope all well with you too.

Thanks for the update too, Phil. Looks like I need to get out more :-) Or go onto LCool more often?

No king pins and sealed bearings would be the go. Have often thought many wheel bearing failures can be put down to the fact that most of us don't like to get our hands THAT dirty, certainly not every 40K clicks.

Found this 40 something year old slide recently, of king pin/wheel bearing maintenance on "Newry" Station(on Keep River NT). The late Les Scott & Paddy doing the job. and the brakes on those old FJ's!!! Check out the old Roadtrak Major tyre, or is it an Olympic lookalike?



Have been working on the electrics of our camper over the past weeks(similar to your old one), and leaving the bearings for later :-)

Thanks Phil,
Bob.

Nice photo Bob, I can relate to that :-)

Agree about the hoses - last hose I split was on a VC Commodore 35 years ago. I carry a piece of spare heater hose because it can serve a lot of purposes. And a length of fuel hose.

He might have problems finding the spark plugs on his TTD :-)
I also carry a few spare wheel studs as well as wheel nuts.
I've stopped carrying a tube - if a tyre can't be repaired with a plug or a patch, then its no good anyway. Carry 2 spares, then there's no issue. Flat tyres are less common these days.

Hoses are simple components but can fail unexpectedly.
As said, I change mine routinely but carry spares as well. Last change was just before last year's trip. Only one week back home and found coolant on the garage floor from a split top hose.
Sure, maybe you can patch them out bush but a pair are easy to carry.

When did you last replace a wheel stud Phil? Serious question mate. I'm thinking about it.

Gday Allan,
Never had to personally replace a 14mm Stud on the 5 stud cruisers, we heard of others who have. Very uncommon though. Maybe they had aftermarket wheels, wheel spacers, loose nuts, overloaded etc etc
Certainly more common with the 12mm ones on the 6 stud cruisers and Patrols.
They are a cheap part that occupies very little space, so I carry them.

As far as hoses go, I am amazed at how good the genuine hoses look after 10-15 years. Better coolants and maybe better rubber? Out of interest, the one that split - was it a genuine Toyota hose? The genuine heater hoses can be very hard to track down - a few years back I tried to get a set for my daughters 1997 HZJ80 and there was one hose in particular that was unobtainable. So we checked the condition which was fine, kept the originals and she carries a length as a spare.

Cheers
Phil

Thanks Phil, It could be difficult to proceed with several broken studs and fence wire really wouldn't cut it! I lube mine with anti-seize and tighten to spec with a torque wrench, so feel confident but maybe a couple of spares would not go astray.

My split hose was not genuine Toyota so maybe there is a lesson. My replacements are very soft and "rubbery" (LOL) but not silicon. I'll be keeping a close watch on them.

Allan, if you're registered on Lcool, an interesting thread came up yesterday. A number of people who have busted all 5 studs on 70series when using aftermarket wheels.
http://www.lcool.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35159&highlight=&sid=f732a0ffad045564661c3d663b300330

Thanks Phil, I'll take a look.

Are you and I the only ones not on the "Grey Nomad" thread? LOL

I've avoided it as well .... turning into a mortar attack...

Make a light hearted comment about bikkie-dippers and watch out !!

Allan and Scott,
Just had a squizz at the grey nomad thread....3440 views....but its nice to see the forum lighten up a bit - some funny posts there! With Exploroz now, I check the number of views and of its above 1000, then the thread is worth looking at! But on that thread, I felt the need to comment about grey nomads and generators and how noisy and inconsiderate they are - my aim would be to push the views past the 4000 mark :-)

Gregorys/Haynes etc don't have a 200series workshop manual. Easiest solution is a factory workshop manual DVD on Ebay. Can also access the factory manual online HERE.

Can also pull spare bolts/nuts from another less critical part of the vehicle if needed. But I carry a spare sump plug, diff plug as well as a few M6, M8, M10x1.25, M12x1.25 as these are the usual Toyota sizes. Bits of threaded rod are also handy. As is fencing wire!

Mudguard - agree - I take a set of spare wheel bearings and hub kit with me on remote trips (useful as the 40 hubs & bearings are interchangeable) - however the whole lot is useless unless you have this..
learnt from bitter expereince.

Or you can use a common (flat) screwdriver, as I had to once. Spanner more suitable though of course.

Off-track - yeah - you can use a screwdriver and a FBH, but it makes a mess of the locking nut and other bits in there...

Guys,
The original poster has a 200series - wheel bearings are sealed for life, your 54mm tool is useless, why can't this forum stay on topic??????

Phil, the response was Mudguards post about having the experience of maintaining your vehicle and knowing what tools and spares are necessary. Who appointed you moderator?

If we're sticking to 200 series, then would you suggest taking the diagnostic firmware or software to reset any sensor errors?

Scott, my post was directed to you both.

I feel sorry for Craig who posted the original question. He asks a simple question about spares for his 200series and campertrailer and gets a heap of irrelevant responses that he will have to try to figure out himself.

Oh and don't forget the hammer and tent pegs if you have an awning to put up

An 08 model just used on SCHOOL RUNS! That's going to carboned up like heck You'd also better start doing some hard driving runs as well.

200series TTD has a sepentine belt with tensioner - tensioner needs simple 14mm socket to un-tension it. Never heard of anyone doing a serpentine belt with these, but water pumps can develop slow leaks.

Ever tried to replace a front strut on a 200series? Almost impossible to do in the field.

Rear shocks yes - worth carrying as spares - just the usual live axle.