12v system dead in 2008 jayco sterling poptop

Submitted: Wednesday, Jul 16, 2014 at 12:25
ThreadID: 108764 Views:1878 Replies:2 FollowUps:5
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Hi to all on Exploroz, i have been a long time reader of site and have found many little tips and tricks to help me along.
Im hoping some of you guys can help me out with my power problem on the van.

All was working well with the 12v lighting, water pump/heater until we stopped overnight on the way to Bremer a couple of weeks ago.
As usual when we parked up i disconnected my Anderson plug and van plug from the cruiser, switched the main 12v light switch on in the van and nothing happened.
Now all was working fine the previous week. I mucked around for awhile, put the multi on the battery-AOK 12.9v. flicked the individual light switches, hot water sytem switch and water pump switch nothing. i Then hooked Anderson back on cruiser, nothing. Then plugged van back into cruiser, bingo power.

So that's where I'm at, nothing working from house battery alone, but all OK when both Anderson and van are plugged into vehicle.

Any suggestions to kick things off would be greatly appreciated

Cheers
The CAD
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Reply By: HKB Electronics - Wednesday, Jul 16, 2014 at 12:42

Wednesday, Jul 16, 2014 at 12:42
If you you have 12V at the battery, check the battery terminals
are clean and making contact, if your unit has a few fuse for different circuits and there all dead off the battery check the cabling from the positive battery terminal to the fuse box, also check the negative lead to the earth point.

Cheers
Leigh

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Follow Up By: AKA-The CAD - Wednesday, Jul 16, 2014 at 13:00

Wednesday, Jul 16, 2014 at 13:00
Hey thanks Leigh,

I have checked all terminals and all are immaculate, i checked all fuses on the front of the setec unit and none are blown.
I did try to follow cabling from battery to destination but it feeds straight into the wall, I just cant get my head around why all the 12v items work in the van when i have the Anderson plug and van towing plug hooked into the cruiser. I have the key turned off, so the only power feed is the Anderson, but when i disconnect the van plug from the vehicle i lose 12v to the van. Totally confused

Oh, one piece of info, when the van is hooked onto house battery alone, the red light comes that indicates the water pump is switched. This light stays on whether the pump switch is in the On or OFF position.

I'm a bit confusing in how i explain things so hoping you getting a good enough picture of whats happening.

Thanks
Craig

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Follow Up By: HKB Electronics - Wednesday, Jul 16, 2014 at 15:20

Wednesday, Jul 16, 2014 at 15:20
Oops sorry about below should have been here:

You don't have a battery isolator switch in the van do you?

Craig if the electrics work when connected to the car then most of the wiring must be ok., turn on a 12V appliance, then connect the positive lead from your volt meter to negative side of a plug or the chassis if it is grounded and then the negative lead to the battery negative terminal. If you see 12V the negative lead from the battery to the negative common/chassis etc is open.

If that tests ok then connect the negative lead of the meter to the battery negative terminal and the positive lead to a positive at a plug or light etc and see if you get 12V if not then the positive battery lead is open somewhere.

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Follow Up By: HKB Electronics - Wednesday, Jul 16, 2014 at 15:24

Wednesday, Jul 16, 2014 at 15:24
Actually negative side of a plug or light and not the chassis would be better in test one as the negative maybe ok to the chassis but not to the wiring negative common.

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Follow Up By: AKA-The CAD - Wednesday, Jul 16, 2014 at 17:04

Wednesday, Jul 16, 2014 at 17:04
Thanks for all of your input guys.
followed up on your tests HKB and decided also to follow the main feed wire through to see where it was connected.
Both sets of +/- connect to terminals on the Setec converter/charger.
The + terminal was very loose and the - terminal looked like it had some short out problems and had melted the casing causing it to insulate from the lug. Fitted two new tight terminals and all power systems are go from the house battery.

Thank you all very much for your help, just having people throw ideas at me helps me brainstorm problems a lot better.

Once again thank you all
Craig
AKA the CAD
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Reply By: oldtrack123 - Wednesday, Jul 16, 2014 at 13:50

Wednesday, Jul 16, 2014 at 13:50
HI
Are you getting full power even without the engine running?
Do you have an isolator system between the van battery & the tug /crank battery
If the Answer to both above is YES ,I would suggest you check the negative earth wiring of the van battery
FIrst step check, fom the battery's NEG lug to the van frame
Do that with the van totally disconnected from the vehicle & Some loads switched on in the van [even though they may not appear to be drawing power]


PeterQ
AnswerID: 536140

Follow Up By: HKB Electronics - Wednesday, Jul 16, 2014 at 15:19

Wednesday, Jul 16, 2014 at 15:19
You don't have a battery isolator switch in the van do you?

Craig if the electrics work when connected to the car then most of the wiring must be ok., turn on a 12V appliance, then connect the positive lead from your volt meter to negative side of a plug or the chassis if it is grounded and then the negative lead to the battery negative terminal. If you see 12V the negative lead from the battery to the negative common/chassis etc is open.

If that tests ok then connect the negative lead of the meter to the battery negative terminal and the positive lead to a positive at a plug or light etc and see if you get 12V if not then the positive battery lead is open somewhere.

Leigh

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