Hj60 starting issue

Submitted: Thursday, Sep 11, 2014 at 20:08
ThreadID: 109479 Views:5020 Replies:7 FollowUps:7
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Hi all, I have just finished doing up a 1983 hj60 Landcruiser with a 2h engine. Only 2 days ago it passed the inspection to get it registered. As soon as I screwed the plates on it decided to start playing up..... I started the engine and it immediately turned off again. It did this 3 times before it decided to run as normal. This morning I started it, and once again it immediately turned off, but this time it kept on doing it.... Looking under the bonnet as I turned the key, I could see a rod from the fuel cut solenoid (I assume) attached to the injector pump - as soon as the engine starts and I let go of the key the rod moves towards the injector pump and shuts down the engine... Has anyone experienced this before? Are there solutions apart from disconnecting the solenoid and attaching a metal rod drilled through the firewall to the fuel pump to shut it down as the rac suggested? Thanks heaps! Drew
Ps I asked on ih8mud but there was very little response (mostly petrols on there), and there is no 60 section on lcool...
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Reply By: Member - Ed C (QLD) - Thursday, Sep 11, 2014 at 20:24

Thursday, Sep 11, 2014 at 20:24
This may help >>

Thread 17293


:)

Confucius say.....
"He who lie underneath automobile with tool in hand,
....Not necessarily mechanic!!"

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Follow Up By: pop2jocem - Thursday, Sep 11, 2014 at 21:25

Thursday, Sep 11, 2014 at 21:25
Drew,

Reading the thread that Ed C put up prodded my aging memory banks a little.
From memory the EDIC solinoid does a few things.
1. Obviously cuts the fuel when you want to stop the engine.
2. On initial startup it positions the fuel pump rack temporarily into excess fuel. As soon as the engine fires and sufficient revs are up around idle the fuel pump is retirned to the normal operation range.
3. I do very vaguely remember something about cutting the fuel and stopping the engine if oil pressure doesn't come up in a certain time. As far as stopping the engine running backwards I'll just have to take the previous posters word for that.

Hope that helped a little. It's been too many years since I owned or worked on a 2H, but they were, and other than being a bit short on grunt, still are, a bloody good reliable engine.

Cheers
Pop
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Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Thursday, Sep 11, 2014 at 21:16

Thursday, Sep 11, 2014 at 21:16
Drew,
The 2H cuts out after 5 seconds of oil pressure is low.
There is an oil pressure relief valve located at the front RHS of the block. When you undo it, the valve and spring come out. The problem is usually that this valve can stick in the bore because of wear and tear.
I believe that TerrainTamer make a replacement valve that is made for worn housings that overcomes the sticking problem.
Its a cheap part, cheap solution, so worth a try.
Part Number 15131-22010S
AnswerID: 538980

Reply By: Drew - Karratha - Thursday, Sep 11, 2014 at 21:31

Thursday, Sep 11, 2014 at 21:31
Thanks guys - I have been searching 'fuel cut solenoid' etc... There is a fair bit more info on Edic motors! I have had the car for approx 8 months without a problem starting it - but I did change the oil just before I took it in for inspection (with 20w40). That was the same day it started playing up... I might try driving it without the Edic 'rod' attached to ensure there is oil pressure, then connect it and try to start it again? If that works possibly change to a thinner oil? I am unsure if it is related to oil pressure as it shuts off only a second after starting (if that).
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Reply By: Life Member - Terry 80FTE - Thursday, Sep 11, 2014 at 21:33

Thursday, Sep 11, 2014 at 21:33
Check that the EDIC motor (the bit with the rod attached) is getting power when the key is in the on position,
Ignition switch, fuse, Edic control relay and fusible link, ign. relay.
One circuit powers the Edic when cranking, then changes to ignition on, to run.
Most likely not the oil pressure switch circuit, as that will let the motor run for a couple of seconds before shutting off.
Going on memory here, but good luck with it.
Cheers
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Follow Up By: Life Member - Terry 80FTE - Thursday, Sep 11, 2014 at 21:39

Thursday, Sep 11, 2014 at 21:39
Although the 60 series isn't on LCOOL (as such), the early HJ75's ran a back tooth rattler as well ;)
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Follow Up By: Drew - Karratha - Thursday, Sep 11, 2014 at 22:17

Thursday, Sep 11, 2014 at 22:17
Thanks Terry - I didn't think of the 2h 75's...
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Reply By: Drew - Karratha - Friday, Sep 12, 2014 at 11:50

Friday, Sep 12, 2014 at 11:50
The RAC Roadside assist came out yesterday arvo, but just disconnected the rod from the Edic motor to the injector pump....

This morning I started the car, then put on the windscreen wipers to clear the windscreen - but nothing... then I noticed no tacho, no oil pressure gauge, no temp gauge, no indicators.....

It is now in at an auto sparky to have a look

This is supposed to be my reliable - all - mechanical backup car as my 100 series TD is in at Toyota (they have had it for about 2 and a half weeks in total now) to diagnose a problem with lack of power when taking off (with a foot on the brake, the car wont rev to over 800rpm with the foot flat to the foor on the accelerator....

I am over cars...
AnswerID: 539009

Follow Up By: Drew - Karratha - Friday, Sep 12, 2014 at 13:32

Friday, Sep 12, 2014 at 13:32
Auto Sparky just called - faulty immobilizer.... that should fix the gauges, and when I get it back I will see if it also fixes the Edic issue...
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Friday, Sep 12, 2014 at 15:46

Friday, Sep 12, 2014 at 15:46
Are the Fusible Links OK?
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Follow Up By: Athol W1 - Saturday, Sep 13, 2014 at 09:03

Saturday, Sep 13, 2014 at 09:03
Drew
Good to hear that you have the old 60 series sorted, now to the 100 series.
If the problem is a lack of grunt only when taking off, and the vehicle performs as normal above about 20 to 30 kph then the problem will most likely be a faulty torque convertor in the auto trans. The problem will be the stator clutch slipping (a sprag or one way clutch that is inside the torque convertor), or a stripped spline in the stator support assembly (stator clutch race or its support which is part of the front pump assembly).

If this assembly is allowing the stator to turn when it should be locked (on take off) then you will get very low engine revs under stall (brake applied and full throttle) conditions, but normal operation when the vehicle is under way.

Good luck
Athol (retired motor mechanic)
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Reply By: get outmore - Friday, Sep 12, 2014 at 14:16

Friday, Sep 12, 2014 at 14:16
all ill say is I had problems with my edic motr /cuttoff

i drove it 1/2 way round australia with it not functioning just used to stall it to stop
cost a small fortune to eventually diagnose and fix
AnswerID: 539014

Reply By: Drew - Karratha - Friday, Sep 12, 2014 at 15:52

Friday, Sep 12, 2014 at 15:52
Thanks for all the suggestions!

The immobiliser was disconnected and removed, and now everything is back working as it should! Including the Edic motor! What a relief..

Now I have a fair bit more knowledge of Edic motors / low oil cut offs etc

Now for the 100 series........................
AnswerID: 539021

Follow Up By: Mudripper - Friday, Sep 12, 2014 at 22:44

Friday, Sep 12, 2014 at 22:44
Hi Drew,

I have a 1983 HJ47 with the 2H and also have experienced the same problem re engine stopping a couple of seconds after a cold start. The thing I learned to do is to bring the revs up to about 1000-1100RPM immediately after starting (don't rev the hell out of it). This will bring the oil pressure up faster than at your typical 650-700 RPM idle speed. 9/10 times this method works. Using the hand throttle helps in this regard. Since I know that the first notch on my hand throttle will give me around 1100 RPM, I just set it to that before starting the engine.

Keep the mighty 2H going mate, they're a good engine and will provide many years of service with a bit of care.

Good luck,

Tim.
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