18 female and just bought a troopy.

I actually don't think there is one locally will have to do a bit more searching. Theres a bunch of blokes who do locally 4wd but wouldnt be able to go to them for help. Its not a "girl" thing apparently haha
(Not one of them own a troopy either all new off the shelve cars )

I disagree. 4wd clubs are not for everyone. There are rules and politics involved that can take away from the experience. This is probably not the best forum for an 18yr old as most members are "mature aged", I would suggest the 4x4Earth forum. It is run much the same as this one only each state/area hold regular day trips and weekend trips 4wding where new people can learn the practical skills from those more experienced in all areas of 4wding and recovery.

Thanks Gary!
Yeah got a bit excited today and decided I would see how long it would take me to take all the tyres off and put them back on. Took one look at the jack and chucked it. Probably older than the car and would take almost an hour for me to get it high enough.

Woah....Gary! Have you ever tried using a trolley jack on dirt/sand? The jack wants to move as the car goes up in height. They're also quite heavy and awkward to store and get out (pinch points).
I'd advise against one other than for the home garage.
Fab.

Hi Fab, I have been using the trolley jack on my troopy for the last 4 years, travelling extensively (30 weeks + per year) in the Kimberley, including trips out into the Great Sandy Desert. There are pro and cons for all types of jacks, but in my situation its my favourite jack to use.

You will need a base plate for the trolley jack. The trolley jack moving when it increases in height, doesn't worry me as much as if the vehicle was moving. The troopy is a big vehicle, you will find room for it, if you want to. It does weight more than other types of jacks, but it's lightier than the tyre Zeezee will be lifting.

Biggest plus for me, is that I can change a tyre in under 10 minutes using the trolley jack. With the bottle jack it requires about 15 minutes and also some digging to fit the bottle jack under the jacking point. When it's 40 degrees, this is very significant.

I do understand that all jacks have pro's and con's, depending on personal preference and vehicle that they drive, the trolley jack isn't for everyone. However for the troopy, I do recommend it.

Fair call Gary. I have a mate with 75 series ute who uses a trolley jack all the time. I've witnessed how cumbersome it is for him to use and the associated swearing that goes along with it.
I guess there's plenty of options from an exhaust bag, scissor jack, bottle jack, trolley jack and a high lift.
My personal preference is the factory scissor jack with a home made longer handle and an add in block to take up the extra height since my lift. The jack stows nicely and it cleans up easily. Few parts to fail either.
No right or wrong I guess.
Cheers.
Fab.

A little trick I use is this. If the tyre is punctured, but will hold air and releases slowly, I use my compressor to pump up the flat tyre. I then slide my HYDRAULIC jack under the spring centre and find that I only have to lift an inch or two to lift the wheel off the ground. Very quick and EASY.
If the tyre is split, back to square one…. If the tyre is mounted under the rear of the vehicle, and you are travelling in sand, get it out and place it high on the vehicle. Trying to get it out when replacing a tyre in loose sand is nigh on impossible

Tips ….. first purchase …. compressor ….. second purchase …. hydraulic jack

If it's on split rims and tubed tyres, replace with steel safety rims and tubeless tyres. In my experience, Tubes have a habit of puncturing thru tyre rub. And make sure that your tyres are Light Truck construction.

I was a newbie 10 years ago, and 320,000 kms later, this is some of what I have learned in my time.

cheers
Laurie

jacks and tyre are a subject for much discussion.

a lot of issues to do with tyre changing and jacking vehickes are to do with technique...some people make it very hard on themselves...remember jacking vehicles and changing tyres is very different off road than it is on a hard flat surface.

On the matter of factory jacks......if they have been lying arround for some time, they can get stiff and unco-operative...a good clean and lubricate can change that completely.

making better and extended handles can also make all the difference.

remember the factory jack is as cheap as it can be and still do the job.

I don't know about carrying a trolly jack......but a good hydraulic jack may be a good investment.....there are a lot of variations so look at the lowered height and the lift range.

No one has mentioned a high lift jack yet......there are completely useless unless you have bar work all round and there are those who think they are wonderfull and those who think they are a dangerous PITA.

regardless if you are going off road you need to carry a jacking plate to put under the jack so it does not sink into soft ground.
I carry a piece of 10mm steel plate 300mm square.... it can double as a cooking plate on my butane stove.

as for the split rims........that is another matter of debate.....there has been a lot said against split rims.......there are plenty still running them and prefeer them.......at least one tour company insists all vehicles run split rims on remote tours..I can see their reasoning.

as for the first purchase after the vehicle manual.....the Gregories-4wd survival guide......make sure its the gregories one......it is aligned with the national 4wd training curiculum and many 4wd training courses use it as their text.

it addresses many of these issues and much more.

cheers

Thanks Bantam,

Will source a manual, a friend gave me some magazines but had the instant urge to buy a bleep tone of uneeded extras and a seriously burning pocket. This was before I even had the rig!

Ahaha oil changes ay ;) Right big stick and bigger dog required!

Thanks ! I feel like a kid at christmas!

oil changes are actually a 2 minute job (not including time to let it drain)

all you need is a 10l 15/w40 diesel oil (dont get sucked into getting the best any name brand is fine)
a $2 bucket and a $5 funnel and a filter

first thing you do is after driving it drop the oil into the bucket
while its draining remove the oil filter (this could be the hard part as the averadge boofhead tightens them up to 100000000 ft pld tourque)
but subsequesnt changes just put the filter on and off by hand tight

then get your funnel - most super cheap funnels come with 2 parts one being a bendy bit that screws onto the funnel part - unscrew this part and throw it in the bin - then push out and remove the metal filter at the base of the funnel , this is now your dedicated oil change funnel
the funnel luckily enough will now screw straight into your oil filler with the cap off so you dont have to hold it
now after replacing the filter and the oil drain plug pour the whole 10 litres in in a steady not too fast action

finally remove funnel replace cap and use funnel to pour used oil from bucket back into the now empty container for disposal

When changing oil in the bush, you need to climb under the vehicle to remove the sump plug.
Tip ……. check the wind direction …. I didn't ……. very messy …LOL

cheers
Laurie

if working with a diesel in particular a 6 cylinder...remember that most of the commercial plastic drain pans are designed arround petrol passenger cars and may not hold the whole sump full in a diesel.

they are cheap enough...buy 2 and have the second one ready well before the first one is full.

Remember used diesel oil is BLACK...so black even the white bits are black.....if your female experience requires you to have nice clean looking hands.....serioulsy think about rubber gloves....blue high risk surgical gloves are good......I get mine from my auto refinish supplier...spray painters use em.

now here comes the cracked record.
when you go to buy oil and filters......you have a diesel...shop where the truckies do and buy what the truckies buy.

in all but the latest diesels you will be lloking for 15w40 diesel spec oil, preferably a JASO DH1 spec oil.

Mobil Devlac, Shell Rimular or Caltex Dello in no particular order.....they are the to 3 mass market diesel spec oils....if you must Castrol RX super.....its a good oil but one step behind.

Buy it by the 20 litre and if you are not paying arround the $100 for a 20 you are not shopping well.
look for a fuel depot, truck stop or diesel spares shop that supplies truckies.

Likewise buy your filters at the diesel spares shop.....you will buy a better class of filter and pay less..look for Sakura, fleetguard or Donaldson brands.

cheers

bantam I wouldnt by 20l of diesal oil for the sheer convenience.
10l costs around $40 one drum one fill and you have a sealed container to store the used oil... doesn't get any simpler. as for oil change pans... waste of money when the cheapest plastic bucket works....

+1 with Cruiser - you'll learn more about both your and the vehicles capability in one course. Important to know.

Hi John,

Some of your points are valid and others did put forward basic equipment suggestions.

Zee,

Do a 4WD course because it will save you big money in the long run.

Any competant 4WD instructor will advise the best basic equipment list and how to use it.

Cheers,
Wayne & Sally.

definitely join a 4x4 club which will provide training, which in itself is great fun and chances are, there might be others with the same vehicle to compare notes with. If you only join the club for this purpose only, it will be worthwhile - otherwise, pay for one of the commercially run courses. They don't cost a fortune.