Bug and Tar Remover - Tree Sap Residue

Petrol

Many detailers use it.

Many fall into the trap of polishing after travelling...........polishing should be done prior to travelling, all the crap comes off easier after the trip.

You are right to be concerned about cut & polishing that often.
Many new car makers now are putting very little paint on, COB (clear over base) colours, traditionally metallics (but more and more solids are using this process) especially.

Remover tree sap and tar spots etc with a good wax & grease remover.
Tree saps can be stubborn and very damaging / staining to paint like bird droppings.
Try not to leave it on too long, and better still avoid parking under trees that drop a lot of sap.

I've never been a big fan of waxes, but some of these might help release such materials, and possible protect the paint a little.
Maybe read some of the info in their promo brochures etc, but consider it marketing jargon in many cases.
You will likely have to try a few brands and see what makes you life easier.

Hi John

I have in the past either used kero, or CRC sprayed onto the effected sports soon makes light work of getting those issues off without having to use much elbow grease.

Then give your pride and joy a good hand polish with a good quality polish and it will look as good as new.



Cheers



Stephen

I have used both kero and eucalyptus oil with good results

Here are some thaughts.

If you want to buff your car.....turn your back on the retail products and go to a good refinish supplier where the panel beaters shop.
Ask for a good quality modern buffing compound.
A medum compound should be fine.....some of the fine compounds are rediculous.

The current terchnology uses very accurately graded and regularly shaped abrasive particles...this results in a product that works fast but is less agressive than the older style retail cutting compounds

The commercial compound you are looking for will have nothing but abrasive and a carrier usually kero and water.

use this with a foam buff, I use an orange buff ( they are colour graded).....forget the lamswool....far too agressive

Slow speed, add water, from a squirt bottle if its starts to dry out.

The object here is to get a realy smooth and glossy surface on which to apply polish

With a light touch you will get a good smooth gloss with little risk......get heavy handed and you can buff out quite deep scratches right back to the metal.

Then apply your polish of choice.
The best I have been able to establish is meguaires gold class
Apply this by hand a buff off by hand as instructed.

It may be worth applying 2 or more applications.

A good coat of wax over a realy smooth surface will tend to reduce things sticking.

But some things are just agressive like bat $###......that stuff is acidic and will get thru anything, you need to get it off fast.

as for getting tree sap and stuff off.

My preference is white spirit (not metho WHITE spirit), it is the base hydrocarbon for petrol and turps, it has less other stuff in it and is clean and clear.....it should not effect sound paint work.

Some tree sap comes of with water better......leave a wet sponge or rag on the sap for half a hour or so then see how you go.

cheers

Thanks all, for the tips.

Much food for thought there and I'll 'spot try' some of your suggestions.

Cheers.

Only ever used "Mothers" clay bar on my duco with good results.
Little bit of elbow grease required but doesn't damage the duco
Cheers
Flighty

Elbow grease only.

Never buff unless you are a professional.

Any good quality polish will do the trick.

and as previous punters have said WD40 will work for your intended use.


Cheers