Fridge voltage setting

Submitted: Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 13:32
ThreadID: 110402 Views:2340 Replies:3 FollowUps:18
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My neighbour just bought a fridge with adjustable voltages of 10/10.7/11.8 he has a deep cycle dual batt so what would be the preferred setting so no damage is accidentally done the battery. Thanks
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Reply By: Kelpie D - Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 13:41

Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 13:41
I could be wrong but that sounds like low voltage cut out settings to me.

If it is a low voltage cut out, I would set it to the 10.7.
AnswerID: 542890

Follow Up By: Batt's - Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 13:56

Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 13:56
I was reading thread 382 on power consumption and saw some charts posted and thought 11.8 would be the best setting but it would be better if 10.7 was ok and didn't cause and damage to the batt it would give the fridge more running time. Also he will be looking at solar but that's not till later on next year some time sorry I probably should have mentioned that before.
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Follow Up By: Kelpie D - Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 14:14

Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 14:14
Any of those three settings will cause damage if constantly going down that far...Unless he wants to buy a LiFePo4 which will handle that sort of use.

What charging method is he using now?

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Follow Up By: Batt's - Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 14:44

Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 14:44
I was a little bit out with the numbers I just went off what I though he told me recently I looked them up there are 3 settings
1st = off 10.8v / on 11.8v
2nd = off 11.8v / on 12.8v
3rd = off 10.4v / on 11.4v
The manufacturer recommends 3rd setting which I expect would cause batt damage the 2nd setting looks like it would be the best option sorry about the error maybe goldfish syndrome setting in. Battery topped up on 240v charger before trips and car alternator when travelling on doing weekend camping trips for now.
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FollowupID: 829589

Follow Up By: Kelpie D - Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 15:13

Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 15:13
OK.

Assuming it is a mains charger with some sort of float control. He can connect the charger and the fridge at the same time at home. This will keep the battery fully charged and the fridge cold. If it has freezer mode, run it as a freezer when on the mains charger.

For the weekend trips. He needs to work out how many amp hours the fridge will use and match a battery to that. Most portable fridges will use 25 to 30 amp hours per 24 hour day. So to run for two day weekends he really needs a 100AH battery. If he can top up from the car, good. Even just using jumper leads will help. If he has run the fridge in freezer mode all week before the weekend, that will help too.

So the questions to ask him. What is the power usage of the fridge. What is the size of the battery he has now. Can he run it in freezer mode prior to his trips. Is his mains charger a smart charger.
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FollowupID: 829590

Follow Up By: Batt's - Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 15:37

Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 15:37
Thanks for the info he's got a 120 ah batt the fridge only draws around 1.5 amps and he will be running the fridge on 240v to cool it down the night before he goes away also has a smart charger thanks again.
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FollowupID: 829591

Follow Up By: Kelpie D - Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 15:50

Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 15:50
No worries,

With those figures, he can go all weekend with out any issues.

Ask him if he has considered an inverter. A smart charger needs true sine wave (pure sine). No need to spend hundreds. The cheaper ones like Giandel works just as good. You can get a 600watt for well under $100.

Then if he needs to top up off the car, use the inverter to run the smart charger. Not counting petrol, it is about half to a third the cost of a dual battery kit and about a tenth the cost of a good quality brand name 120watt solar panel.
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FollowupID: 829592

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 20:10

Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 20:10
HI
The low voltage setting at low levels[10.8v] will do little to protect the battery
If taken down to that regularly most batterries will have a very short life
That level is mainly to protect the fridge motor/ control unit itself from low voltage damage

The 2nd figures 11.8Vto12.8V are more suitable for long battery life
They ensure that the battery is not over discharged & has a reasonable charge before the fridge is reconnected.

IF the fridge is supplied via longllight cables from the battery, voltage drop WILL cause SOC sensing problems

PeterQ
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FollowupID: 829628

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 20:17

Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 20:17
HI
Quote"Batt's posted:
Thanks for the info he's got a 120 ah batt the fridge only draws around 1.5 amps and he will be running the fridge on 240v to cool it down the night before he goes away also has a smart charger thanks again[end quote]

That is an average figure based on seldom met conditions in real life
& equates to 1.5 x24= 36Ahrs
In hot weather with warm loading, used as a FRIDGE that can
easily go up to more like 60Ahrs PLUS

PeterQ
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FollowupID: 829630

Follow Up By: Kelpie D - Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 21:28

Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 21:28
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FollowupID: 829640

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 22:20

Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 22:20
This post has been read by the moderation team and has been moderated due to a breach of The Inappropriate Rule .

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Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 22:36

Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 22:36
HI
For those who wsh to know what the current draw of their fridge actually is, simply divide the WATT rating by 12V

Then how long it runs for will depend on how it is used including:
Temp that the FRIDGE is operating In
[Anything over 25C means it WILL run longer & use more Amphrs over 24hrs than the 1.5 x24 hrs=36Ahrs the specs give]

Then the actual thermo setting will also determine how long it will run for,near freezing it will run a great deal longer

Iin deep freeze mode it may well run continiously

Then anything that you put will also cause it to run longer

If it is an upright type[not a chest type] the longer or more often the door is open will encrease the run time.[cold air spilling out, warm air has to be cooled]

Chest types are less affected by LID openings


PeterQ
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FollowupID: 829645

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 22:44

Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 22:44
[Quote]Ask him if he has considered an inverter. A smart charger needs true sine wave (pure sine). No need to spend hundreds. The cheaper ones like Giandel works just as good. You can get a 600watt for well under $100.

Then if he needs to top up off the car, use the inverter to run the smart charger. Not counting petrol, it is about half to a third the cost of a dual battery kit and about a tenth the cost of a good quality brand name 120watt solar panel [end quote]
Hi
Do you KNOW the risks with inverters & class1 devices??
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FollowupID: 829647

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 23:03

Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 23:03
[Quote]". My Engel says it draws 1.3 amps. Hardly a "seldom met conditions in real life"[end quote.]

I believe you will fing YOUR Engel actualy draws around 3.5<4Amps when actually running
.If it runs 50% of the time ,that 42<48Ahrs over 24hrs in real life conditions

PeterQ
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FollowupID: 829650

Follow Up By: Batt's - Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 23:39

Friday, Dec 12, 2014 at 23:39
It's a Techni ice fridge and I originally mixed up the low voltage setting controls with the dual zone fridge/freezer model he has the 45 ltr fridge or freezer model. In ideal conditions it might use around 18 Ahrs in a day I would have thought if he based it around 1/3 more say 24 Ahrs a day that should give him a big enough margin he also has an insulation bag. Thanks for the replies fellers and stop arguing I'm the one that usually does that lol cheers.
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FollowupID: 829651

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Saturday, Dec 13, 2014 at 00:41

Saturday, Dec 13, 2014 at 00:41
HI
Based on the specs



30L =4.0A+10% at 12v @ 33% duty cycle =<32Ahrs +10% per 24hrs


45L =4.3A+10% @12V @33%duty cycle=<34Ahrs +10% per 24hrs''


60L =4.5A+10% '@12V@33%duty cycle =<35.4Ahrs+10% per 24 hrs

PeterQ
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FollowupID: 829656

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Saturday, Dec 13, 2014 at 00:50

Saturday, Dec 13, 2014 at 00:50
Quote"I was reading thread 382 on power consumption and saw some charts posted and thought 11.8 would be the best setting but it would be better if 10.7 was ok and didn't cause and damage to the batt it would give the fridge more running time. Also he will be looking at solar but that's not till later on next year some time sorry I probably should have mentioned that before"[end quote]

HI
IF lead acid battery:
10.7v setting IS NOT OK ,it will lead to very short battery life, it is near dead flat!
Every time that happens the battery will have less capacity when recharged.
The 11.8V cutout is the lowest I would go for longer battery life, but even that will be giving the battery a lacing!!

PeterQ
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FollowupID: 829657

Follow Up By: Batt's - Saturday, Dec 13, 2014 at 01:40

Saturday, Dec 13, 2014 at 01:40
No worries will use the 2nd setting and base the power consumption on the specs thanks all for you help
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FollowupID: 829659

Follow Up By: oldtrack123 - Sunday, Dec 14, 2014 at 17:04

Sunday, Dec 14, 2014 at 17:04
This post has been read by the moderation team and has been moderated due to a breach of The Inappropriate Rule .

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Reply By: ModSquad - Saturday, Dec 13, 2014 at 13:58

Saturday, Dec 13, 2014 at 13:58
To Oldtrack123 and Kelpie - STOP your bullying! We are locking the post to give the members of ModSquad time to review the situation.

To everyone who uses this Forum - if you don't feel the information another person has given is incorrect, that is no excuse to publicly berate them - this is the real world, with real people and you are reminded to act like mature adults not bullies.

Personal Attacks are not tolerated on ExplorOz.
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AnswerID: 542941

Reply By: Kelpie D - Sunday, Dec 14, 2014 at 17:36

Sunday, Dec 14, 2014 at 17:36
"Thanks for the replies fellers and stop arguing I'm the one that usually does that lol cheers."...Said Batt's.

No worries mate!

Don't worry, there is no argument. The Mod Squad are on top of it. Let's all just get on with being friendly happy campers and let the Mod Squad do their job.

Your question was answered. Your friend has a 120AH battery and if he fully charges before hand, he will have no issues running his fridge on his weekend trips.

If and when he wants to do longer trips, there are plenty of threads already to help, or you can just ask.

Oh, and thanks for taking the time to help out your neighbour...If there were more people like that...
AnswerID: 542989

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