oil pressure sender GU 4.2T/D ?

Submitted: Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 15:14
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If I'm going to fit a oil pressure gauge to the Patrol, I guess I'd better make sure I know where the sender is located? Also, would I just be able to attach the new gauge's electric cable (I'll be using electonic gauge not mechanical) to the existing sender switch or would I have to fit a separate sender?
I am a bit confused too about what oil pressure a motor like this should be reading. The Synforce people reckon (on their web site) that I should notice a drop in oil pressure because the lower viscosity means the oil travels more freely and therefore less resistance on the pump = lower pressure. They reckon this is not a bad thing. (bit like ourselves with high blood pressure??)
Not having had a gauge on the truck up until now, I won't be able to gauge (pun intended) whether my oil pressure has changed much because of the new oil anyway, will I??
Cheeeez, I'm getting another brain ache........
Where's the scotch bottle???
Cheers,
Roachie
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Reply By: sensei - Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 15:58

Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 15:58
You could place it on the right hand side, there is a 1/8 bsp plug (near front of vehicle)that requires a 5mm allen key to remove. This is were I placed my bypass filter so it is a oil gallery. Just a bit of info but not if it will be of any use but I had 20psi at idle and engine hot. If anything it may give you an idea what the oil pressure should be..ball park figure.
Have 2001 GU 4.2 with 30K on clock and Im running Caltex delo 400.

Hope it helps Roachie
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Follow Up By: Roachie - Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 16:29

Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 16:29
Sensei,
Thanks for that info......I guess where you're talking about must be down low on the block, below the fuel pump? Would that be correct?
Thanks,
Roachie
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Reply By: Member - Ed. C.- Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 16:42

Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 16:42
G'day Roachie,
You will need a dedicated sender to suit your choice of gauge..
The existing warning light switch is just that.. a switch!
You can do as suggested above, & go in on the LH side of the block (used to be oil feed for vac. pump), or do as I have done & use a "T" where the existing pressure switch is located... (I have a by-pass filter also, plumbed as above)...
I'm using VDO (0-100psi)....
Be aware that the VDO sender has a 1/8" NPT thread (don't know about other makes), & the patrol uses 1/8" BSP... They are not the same!!
Suitable "T" is available from VDO...

Regards, Ed. C.
Confucius say.....
"He who lie underneath automobile with tool in hand,
....Not necessarily mechanic!!"

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Follow Up By: Member - Ed. C.- Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 17:16

Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 17:16
Roachie,
re oil pressure specs....
Bit hard to find "technical data" for GU, but I still have Gregorys' W'shop manual for GQ... Same engine, so *presumably* specs should be the same....

Oil pressure at idle (hot)...... More than 78kPa (11.3 psi)
" " @ 3000 rpm........294 - 392 kPa (42.6 - 58.8 psi)

Hope this helps ..... Ed. C.
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"He who lie underneath automobile with tool in hand,
....Not necessarily mechanic!!"

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Follow Up By: Roachie - Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 18:01

Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 18:01
Thanks Ed.
I phoned a mob I found by doing a Google Search. They are Aisat Instruments, Perth. I rang to enquire about VDO gauge prices; specifically the Oil Pressure gauge (gauge is $56-70...sender is extra $68-98). He wanted to know what pressure range I would need and I said I didn't know. He said in that case he'd recommend 1000kpa. If that is the normal type of gauge range this would explain why some owners say their gauges register virtually nothing at some times.....Only 78kpa at idle on a dial which goes from zero to 1000kpa = less than 10% on the scale.

I guess I will have to see if the supplier can provide a suitable 1/8" BSP sender unit thread instead of the NPT thread.

Just for interest sake, I also priced a turbo boost gauge ($101- all up) and a coolant temp gauge ($71- all up).

I am thinking of putting a 3-gauge cluster on the dash in front of the steering wheel....I can't stick it further across as I have a dash pod with UHF + speaker + voltmeter. I also have a GPS right next to that pod, so I'm starting to feel a bit cramped for room.

Cheers, and thanks for your advice.

Roachie
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Follow Up By: Member - Ed. C.- Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 20:02

Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 20:02
Yeah, know what you mean about the room.. GU dash doesn't readily lend itself to "accessorizing"....
I have 5 gauges (boost, oil press., volts, amps, & a clock! all VDO)mounted in (presumably) the same pod that you have, UHF (TX3400) under centre console w/- head unit below heater/fan switches, & spkr ahead of t'fer lever... works good...
Prices you've mentioned are about "par for the course" for VDO, though my local Autopro blokes cut me a pretty good deal on these...
(I'm a regular!!)

1000 kPa = 145psi.. from my observations, you don't need that range..
Me being an (ahem) "older person", I still "think" in psi, & the 0-100 range is ample... kPa equiv. would be 0-700...
I've found at (cold) start-up, pressure is around 60psi at idle (will go to 80 at "fast idle"), & settles back as oil warms up....
If you have difficulty getting a sender with BSP thread (pretty sure the VDO ones are all NPT), I've found that Pirtek (do you have an outlet near you?) have a pretty good range of both NPT & BSP fittings, so they should be able to supply a suitable adaptor... As mentioned, I used the VDO "T" (part# 230.036) in the existing pressure switch outlet, & I'm happy with that arrangement..
Note.. Do not skimp on the thread sealing compound!!!

Catch ya later... Ed.
Confucius say.....
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....Not necessarily mechanic!!"

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Follow Up By: Roachie - Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 20:32

Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 20:32
Thanks Ed.C.
I got under the truck when I got home tonight and located 2 small Allen head bolts on the front right side of the block in a hard-to-get-to spot behind the fuel pump assembly.
I then found what I guess is the factory oil pressure switch, right in front of the front oil filter. Just near that point and at about a 45 degree angle, there is a larger Allen bolt (approx 1/2" by the looks of it). Would that be an option do you think?
I don't have a Pirtek or Enzed outlet here, probably Port Augusta or Adelaide would be closest.
What sort of thread sealant would I have to use?
Sorry if I'm asking too many stupid bloody questions. I should just get my good mate PESTY to help me out, but I reckon he's probably had a gutful of me too by now!!! LOL

Cheers,
Roachie
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Follow Up By: Member - Ed. C.- Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 22:15

Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 22:15
G'day Roachie,
I'm more than happy to answer any questions that are within my ability to answer correctly, so Fire Away!! (lol)...
Correct on the pressure switch, & this is undoubtedly the most common method used to connect a gauge.. via an appropriate "T" here...
The larger inhex plug adjacent? well it certainly looks like it would access the pressure circuit, however, I've never had this one out, so I have no idea what's behind it..
BTW, the alloy housing to which the filters are mounted actually houses an oil cooler... Not sure how effective it is, mounted to the block, but I digress......
The 2 small inhex plugs behind the fuel pump may indeed access the pressure gallery, but I wouldn't be going there...

If you have a look on the LH side of the block, just behind the alt. mounting bracket, you'll see a 3/8 BSP plug w/- a 12mm hex hd....
This accesses the oil return gallery... Right next to this (about 25mm), is a 1/8" BSP plug w/- 5mm F/hex same as those behind the pump...
I know this one taps the pressure gallery, as I've taken the feed for a by-pass filter here, & certainly more accessible if you choose to locate the pressure sender here...
These 2 openings are used on earlier (GQ) models for oil supply/return for the alt-mounted vacuum pump...

Thread sealant?.. one word... "loc-tite".. (or is that 2 words??)
Undoubtedly the best would be the one intended for hydraulic fittings...
I've found Permatek #3 (form-a-gasket) to be quite OK as well...

Catch ya later..... Ed.
Confucius say.....
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Follow Up By: Roachie - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2004 at 11:52

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2004 at 11:52
Thanks again Ed.C. for a great explanation.
The only thing I'm now a bit confused about is the "bypass line" that you and another bloke have mentioned. Where does the line go to after it comes out of the block? I know they refer to one of the oil filters as "bypass filter" but am stuffed if I can work out what that means either? In my small brain, if the filter is called a bypass.....the oil must bypass it, making it superfluous.
Cheers,
Roachie
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Follow Up By: Member - Ed. C.- Wednesday, Mar 24, 2004 at 12:25

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2004 at 12:25
G'day Roachie,
Ah, bypass filtering.... You will get conflicting opinions on this as well, but as you can see, I'm a "believer"...
For a full explanation go to www.wefilterit.com
There are others, but that's the one I'm using, & the site gives a pretty good explanation of how it all works...

Regards, Ed. C.
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Follow Up By: Roachie - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2004 at 15:01

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2004 at 15:01
Thanks yet again Ed....
I checked out the web site and wish I hadn't..........it's just given me something else to worry about at night.
I tried an alternative filtration system when i first got the Patrol in 2000, but it wasn't quite right for the new model with the funny lug sticking out of the filter housing (front filter). I think it was imported by the Fioner Filter people from the states. It consisted of a very fine screen filter clamped between 2 halves of a alloy casing. This was located remote at a convenient point under the bonnet. An adapter fitted over the rear filter housing from which 2 hoses (5/8" I think) went to the remote unit. The front filter housing was not required and a "blank" alloy casting was supplied to cover this hole...............only trouble was, it wasn't designed deep enough to allow for the bit of pipe that protrudes into the normal filter, in the middle of the thread. I thought I'd done it all up tight as a you-know-what and then when I cranked the motor up, oil started pyssing onto the driveway through about a 1/8" gap. I probably could have kept the unit and just left the front filter in place instead of the blank. It's probably a somewhat similar set-up to what you have with the Frantz thingo...
Cheers,
Roachie
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Follow Up By: Member - Ed. C.- Wednesday, Mar 24, 2004 at 23:14

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2004 at 23:14
G'day (again) Roachie,
Not familiar with the unit you describe, bit I take it that it actually replaces the OEM filter system....
The Frantz, on the other hand, works completely independantly of, & does not in any way "interfere" with the existing system, with only a small portion of the pumps' total output flowing (slowly) thru the dense filter medium (in this case, toilet paper!!) at any time (hence the term "by-pass filter), thus enabling much finer filtration (Frantz claim particles as small as 1/10 micron are trapped), therefore enabling extended oil & (spin-on) filter change intervals, as the oil stays cleaner for longer...
Anyway, that's the theory, & I've "put my money where my mouth is" so to speak....
I've enjoyed chattin' with you here (& will surely continue to do so), any time you want to "shoot me a line", feel free to do so at...

edjan
at
bigpond
dot
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Catch ya later... Ed. C.
Confucius say.....
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....Not necessarily mechanic!!"

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Reply By: Wayne (NSW) - Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 19:47

Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 19:47
Roachie,

Are you the Nissan motor will handle all the gauges comming off it.
The boost gauge is a easy fit. Tap into a small vacume hose that would go from the turbo to the waste gate or simular.
I would be interested to know how much boost the Nissan can manage.

Wayne
AnswerID: 51626

Follow Up By: Roachie - Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 20:37

Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 20:37
Wayne,
This is one of those projects that make take a while to finish. I hate buying stuff by mail if I'm not 100% sure it's going to fit. Working 5 days a week means I can't get to the big smoke when all these great places are open (most don't open saturdays). So I've just gotta try and persevere. We do have an Autopro here and they say they can get VDO gauges in if I want them....so maybe that's the way to go, then they take the risk of the thing being wrong for my truck.
Cheers,
Roachie
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Follow Up By: Wayne (NSW) - Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 20:53

Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 20:53
Roachie,

I suppose I am spoilt a bit, All shops open all day Saturday and Sunday, and more auto accessory shops open all weekend than you could poke a plastic card at. The down side, spurr of the moment purchaces that I don't really need.
Only working Tue, Wed, and Thu, plus most weekends also helps to track down parts when I need them.

Wayne
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Reply By: sensei - Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 21:56

Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 21:56
Roachie,
Sorry for ther bum steer, but I did mean on the passanger side of the engine. I was thinking the right hand side while looking at the front...hehe. getting my left and rights mixed up here.
If you look on the PASSENGER <--haha side of your engine you will two 1/8bsp grub screws (5mm allen key required), one is located in front of the engine mount (about 20mm away) and the other is in between the engine mount. You can see them from up top and dont need to get underneath the vehicle.
If you use these outlets you will not need to tap into the oil pressure sender or buy tee pieces etc, I use one of these outlet for my oil bypass filter and the other outlet in between the engine mount for an oil temp sender.
VDO do also sell adaptors to go from NPT to bsp.

Hope it helps and have fun.
Gary
AnswerID: 51667

Follow Up By: Roachie - Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 22:53

Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 22:53
Thanks mate,

That's a great help....I'll have a look on the right side, I mean left side tomorrow.

Cheers,

Roachie
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Follow Up By: Member - Ed. C.- Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 23:37

Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 23:37
In this case, the left side IS the right side, and the right side is the wrong...... Ah fugedaboudit!!!!!!!!

(sorry, couldn't resist!)

Cheers!! Ed. C.
Confucius say.....
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....Not necessarily mechanic!!"

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Reply By: Willem - Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 23:59

Tuesday, Mar 23, 2004 at 23:59
Roachie...I have read all of this thread and I have a headache as well.........Geez you pay all that money for a truck and it doesn't have an oil pressure guage..........My old trucks' oil guage kept on showing zero pressure and the engine was running smoothly and it annoyed me so much that I disconnected it. I tried to get the sender unit out at one stage but I think it is rusted in as it would not budge.That was about three years ago. No worries................
AnswerID: 51706

Reply By: TOB - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2004 at 17:17

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2004 at 17:17
DON'T REALLY UNDERSTAND WHAT BENEFIT YOU WOULD GET FROM A PRESSURE GAUGE OR BOOST GAUGE. I WOULD BE MORE INTERESTED IN A TURBO TEMP GAUGE. I THINK THEY ARE CALLED PYROMETERS BUT I HAVE NOT SEEN ONE ANYWHERE APART FROM TRUCKS. IF YOU DRIVING UP A LONG HILL AND YOUR TURBO OVERHEATS THERE IS A BIG DANGER OF BLOWING UP. THIS WOULD BE MOST USEFUL FOR THOSE RARE TIMES.

TOB
AnswerID: 51801

Follow Up By: Roachie - Wednesday, Mar 24, 2004 at 17:41

Wednesday, Mar 24, 2004 at 17:41
Hey Tob.......stop shouting ol' mate!!! LOL

You're right about a pyrometer gauge. It would be handy too, but I think the relatively minor stresses we 4x4 drivers place on our turbos hardly warrant one.....I priced one years ago and they were bloody expensive. VDO make one in their 52mm size range, goes up to 900 degrees.
As I've said before, ignorance is bliss and I've lived quite happily up til now not knowing any of the following:
Engine oil pressure...
Gearbox/tfr case oil pressure....
Engine oil temp....
Gearbox/tfr case oil temp....
upper cylinder head temp....
diff temps....
exhaust gas temp....
exact coolant temp...... (just somewhere between "C" & "H")
The more things we know about, there more there is to worry about.
Catch 22 really, eh?
Cheers,
Roachie
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