rear diff filler plug - tighter than a gooses....

Submitted: Monday, May 10, 2004 at 19:42
ThreadID: 12762 Views:3296 Replies:11 FollowUps:1
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wanna check the condition of my diff oil (after some water crossings)
i've swung off the rear diff filler plug with a socket and breaker bar
if i give it any more im worried it'll shear off
what am i missing here???
surely they wouldn't do it up with a rattle gun??
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Reply By: Truckster (Vic) - Monday, May 10, 2004 at 19:50

Monday, May 10, 2004 at 19:50
Watched the bloke at TJM UNDO one with a rattle gun and socket and large bar. He mentioned that for some strange reason sometimes new ones are ROCK tight, just if they havent been out before.

AnswerID: 58041

Reply By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Monday, May 10, 2004 at 19:57

Monday, May 10, 2004 at 19:57
I had the same thing with my GU's Gear box filler which has a 1/2" socket hole. I used a breaker bar with a 18" lump of steel pipe on the end and all I managed to do was break the sidchrome breaker bar at the knuckle!!
In the end I gave to a garage to do and I didn't have the heart to ask them how they did it. They use a product like lock-tite or stag.
AnswerID: 58044

Reply By: Peter 2 - Monday, May 10, 2004 at 20:22

Monday, May 10, 2004 at 20:22
They usually require a quick whack rather than a huge pull to undo plugs that are tight. You could try a bit of heat too. I've had the problem on Toyota's, it might be caused by the alloy washer and the alloy casing 'growing' together. I've also resorted to welding a nut to the plug to give better purchase.
I'd try the rattle gun route first or if not available a good Ell bar with about 6ft or pipe on the end, give it a hard quick tug.
Peter
1996 Oka Motorhome

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AnswerID: 58054

Reply By: Eric from Cape York Connections - Monday, May 10, 2004 at 20:39

Monday, May 10, 2004 at 20:39
I did a similar thing on the wheel nuts of my ford van swug on them with all my weight at that time about 150 kg snaped two then read the manual they where left hand nuts on the passengers side and right hand on drivers side.
You learn somthing every day.

All the best
eric
AnswerID: 58062

Follow Up By: Member - Alan- Tuesday, May 11, 2004 at 14:14

Tuesday, May 11, 2004 at 14:14
That reminds me of a mate of mine on the road to Telfer, many moons ago.
Dragging a van complete with moaning wife plus the kids and he got a flat about a 100k's out.
Much sweating swearing and cursing, rounded off the nuts completely on his Valiant (I think) and had to send an SOS to the mine via a truckie on the way in.
They sent a fitter out to rescue him.
Aparrently there was a feeling in Chrysler Australia particularly, that the nuts may unwind on the L/H side if they were right hand threads.
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FollowupID: 319889

Reply By: Eric Experience. - Monday, May 10, 2004 at 20:57

Monday, May 10, 2004 at 20:57
KG.
This is a common problem if the plug has not moved for a long time, I have found that if you give the plug a short zap with an arc welder the heat will loosen the plug when it cools down, if you are concerned about damaging the hex place a piece of steel with a hole in it over the plug and weld through the hole. Practice on an old bolt. Eric.
AnswerID: 58067

Reply By: Twba Scott - Monday, May 10, 2004 at 21:50

Monday, May 10, 2004 at 21:50
I've found the easiest way is to use a good solid socket set and use a jack to apply the pressure. Simply get it all set up and start raising the jack. As long as your socket is a good solid fit, not much is able to resist 2+ tonnes of pressure. Don't use a long breaker bar as you will get too much play, just a nice standard, strong socket and wrench.
AnswerID: 58079

Reply By: Slammin - Monday, May 10, 2004 at 22:22

Monday, May 10, 2004 at 22:22
FWIW I was told that underbody bolts/plugs get very difficult because when your hot car goes into cold water they cause the steels to seize. I was also told a short sharp hit would help, 1st hit directly to the head to help dislodge and disengage the threads and then put on a ring spanner or similar and use a rubber mallet with a short sharp hit to undo.

If I had a rattle gun I'd definately give it a go. Also I've got a 99 Hilux extracab 2.7 and the diff filler threads are all standard.
AnswerID: 58086

Reply By: Goran - Monday, May 10, 2004 at 23:01

Monday, May 10, 2004 at 23:01
I always use proper impact socket for diffs, gearbox and transfer case. It fits spot on and there is less chance of damaging the plug. Bit of heat and the impact socked will do wonders.
AnswerID: 58096

Reply By: chris 4x4 - Tuesday, May 11, 2004 at 18:02

Tuesday, May 11, 2004 at 18:02
if i get it to the point where ive burred the crap out of the plug out of shear frustration i hit it with a cold chisel stuffs the nut but if your good on a bench grinder just take it down a couple of sizes, works for me.
AnswerID: 58187

Reply By: Bob Y. - Qld - Wednesday, May 12, 2004 at 05:52

Wednesday, May 12, 2004 at 05:52
KG,

Have tried almost all methods, as mentioned above, to loosen drain/filler plugs on tojos. Most people have differing ideas of "how tight" to make them.

Good solution is to use some Loctite 567 Thread Sealant on the thread, and take it just past finger tight. The sealant doesn't dry hard, like other Loctite thread products, but binds the thread enough to stop it undoing, and also seals any of those annoying weeps, if the washer might be cactus.

This Loctite is magic on any thread, especially air, much better than thread tape.

Hooroo...
Seen it all, Done it all.
Can't remember most of it.

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AnswerID: 58264

Reply By: Shaun - Friday, May 14, 2004 at 19:32

Friday, May 14, 2004 at 19:32
Yep, had to belt my rear diff drain plug off (99 d/c hilux) with a cold chisel, then replace it after Toyota did a 80,000k service. Thanks fellas!

Shaun
AnswerID: 58638

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