rear diff filler plug - tighter than a gooses....

Watched the bloke at TJM UNDO one with a rattle gun and socket and large bar. He mentioned that for some strange reason sometimes new ones are ROCK tight, just if they havent been out before.

I had the same thing with my GU's Gear box filler which has a 1/2" socket hole. I used a breaker bar with a 18" lump of steel pipe on the end and all I managed to do was break the sidchrome breaker bar at the knuckle!!
In the end I gave to a garage to do and I didn't have the heart to ask them how they did it. They use a product like lock-tite or stag.

They usually require a quick whack rather than a huge pull to undo plugs that are tight. You could try a bit of heat too. I've had the problem on Toyota's, it might be caused by the alloy washer and the alloy casing 'growing' together. I've also resorted to welding a nut to the plug to give better purchase.
I'd try the rattle gun route first or if not available a good Ell bar with about 6ft or pipe on the end, give it a hard quick tug.

I did a similar thing on the wheel nuts of my ford van swug on them with all my weight at that time about 150 kg snaped two then read the manual they where left hand nuts on the passengers side and right hand on drivers side.
You learn somthing every day.

All the best
eric

KG.
This is a common problem if the plug has not moved for a long time, I have found that if you give the plug a short zap with an arc welder the heat will loosen the plug when it cools down, if you are concerned about damaging the hex place a piece of steel with a hole in it over the plug and weld through the hole. Practice on an old bolt. Eric.

I've found the easiest way is to use a good solid socket set and use a jack to apply the pressure. Simply get it all set up and start raising the jack. As long as your socket is a good solid fit, not much is able to resist 2+ tonnes of pressure. Don't use a long breaker bar as you will get too much play, just a nice standard, strong socket and wrench.

FWIW I was told that underbody bolts/plugs get very difficult because when your hot car goes into cold water they cause the steels to seize. I was also told a short sharp hit would help, 1st hit directly to the head to help dislodge and disengage the threads and then put on a ring spanner or similar and use a rubber mallet with a short sharp hit to undo.

If I had a rattle gun I'd definately give it a go. Also I've got a 99 Hilux extracab 2.7 and the diff filler threads are all standard.

I always use proper impact socket for diffs, gearbox and transfer case. It fits spot on and there is less chance of damaging the plug. Bit of heat and the impact socked will do wonders.

if i get it to the point where ive burred the crap out of the plug out of shear frustration i hit it with a cold chisel stuffs the nut but if your good on a bench grinder just take it down a couple of sizes, works for me.

KG,

Have tried almost all methods, as mentioned above, to loosen drain/filler plugs on tojos. Most people have differing ideas of "how tight" to make them.

Good solution is to use some Loctite 567 Thread Sealant on the thread, and take it just past finger tight. The sealant doesn't dry hard, like other Loctite thread products, but binds the thread enough to stop it undoing, and also seals any of those annoying weeps, if the washer might be cactus.

This Loctite is magic on any thread, especially air, much better than thread tape.

Hooroo...

Yep, had to belt my rear diff drain plug off (99 d/c hilux) with a cold chisel, then replace it after Toyota did a 80,000k service. Thanks fellas!

Shaun