Dual Batteries for my GU

Submitted: Saturday, May 22, 2004 at 21:19
ThreadID: 13085 Views:2241 Replies:8 FollowUps:2
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Can anyone advise me of a good dual battery setup? I am running all the standard electric stuff including winch fridge lights, radios etc...Some shops are trying to push the $800 smart solenoid sales pitch, but I am still unsure of what to purchase. Any help would be appreciated
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Reply By: Truckster (Vic) - Sunday, May 23, 2004 at 00:21

Sunday, May 23, 2004 at 00:21
Search the archives, theres about 100 threads on this.

Many varied options and choices.
Some go with the Jaycar style real basic...

I went with the Piranha kit direct from them at Bayswater, was 1/2 the price of the local bloke.. although he included fitting, which took 30 mins.

Try www.rotronics.com.au as well.
AnswerID: 59744

Reply By: Steve - Sunday, May 23, 2004 at 08:33

Sunday, May 23, 2004 at 08:33
you should have looked at the charity auction, there was a Redarc Battery Isolator,
went for $145, so plus tray $100ish dc bat $200 = $445 not bad.!!
AnswerID: 59752

Reply By: Member - Tim&jan - Sunday, May 23, 2004 at 08:42

Sunday, May 23, 2004 at 08:42
mate all those expensive units. do whot they do but you dont need all that crap ive been running 200amp solinoids that cost $24 bucks each and i have never had any dramas infact it makes the car start twice as fast. i run duel solinoids with a 350 amp cable to the rear with another double battery to run the waeco and accesores
in total i have 2500cca ive had this set up for over a year and have never had any dramas with spicks i run two isolating switches in the car so i can have it on or off or charge indervidual batteries sorry about the spelling
AnswerID: 59753

Reply By: rolande- Sunday, May 23, 2004 at 09:37

Sunday, May 23, 2004 at 09:37
Complete kit to fit yourself, go for ARB. Same result but cheaper option, buy tray from ARB and buy REDARC isolator from local auto sparky, who may also wire up for less than ARB kit. Something simpler, look in threads for manual systems like that mentioned above. (I went with option 2)
AnswerID: 59762

Reply By: Willem - Sunday, May 23, 2004 at 12:36

Sunday, May 23, 2004 at 12:36
Desert King N70ZZL $120
Rotronics MH10 Battery isolator $250
Connecting Cables $ 14
Battery holder self made $ 0
Total $384

Fitted it myself and I am a novice with electrics. I run 2x17 plater cranking batteries. The upside to fitting my system is that I have an old technology vehicle which is easy to repair and easy to work on. Computerised models may be in the area of technical expertise.

AnswerID: 59780

Reply By: DrewT - Monday, May 24, 2004 at 09:42

Monday, May 24, 2004 at 09:42
Put a dual battery system in my Prado120 V6 on the weekend, largely based on advice from this forum (thanks everyone).

Pirahna tray $110
Exide Extreme 12" (86EX i think) bty $135
Redarc SB112 Isolator (100A microprocessor controlled isolator) $135
8mm2 cabling (80A) approx $25
2 x 60A fuses $16 (one next to each +ve terminal leading to isolator)
asst connectors $20
= total approx $440

went for a 'smart' isolator as several folks mentioned that modern cars should have them to avoid voltage drop across isolator (as with doide controlled isolators?) & for spike protection.

didn't add any of the in-cabin isolator features (isolator-closed indicator light, push-button overide, voltage indicator etc)

have only run accessory so far .... 8mm2 cables to rear cargo area to run fridge. terminates in a posifit? plug. can't measure any voltage drop at the fridge even when under load ... fat cable works!!

AnswerID: 59864

Follow Up By: Bonz (Vic) - Monday, May 24, 2004 at 13:38

Monday, May 24, 2004 at 13:38
Drew, the 8mm2 cabling, was that back to your original battery also? I would reckon something heavier like 25mm2 or larger (mine is 50mm2) then you could use a 20c piece between the redarc connections and use the second battery as a starter too.
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FollowupID: 321501

Follow Up By: louie the fly - Tuesday, May 25, 2004 at 22:03

Tuesday, May 25, 2004 at 22:03
I used a similar system in my GQ 4.2D Patrol, namely Redarc 100 amp isolator. With this isolator, as you said, you can use the blue auxillary wire to install a switch which allow you to crank from both batteries. It can also be used for a remote charging indicator with a 1.2K resistor & an LED. Have not done this myself yet but I will fit the override switch soon. Don't know if the other isolators have these functions. I made my own tray (coz I could). I have not put fuses in but will do so. What style of fuse holder did you use? I already had a "spare" new 700 CCA battery from my "spare" car so I saved a few bucks there.

I was advised by a battery manufacturer (former customer of mine) to use a cranking battery, as opposed to a Deep Cycle battery, as car alternators don't have the balls to charge the deep cycle units. Seems to work OK.


Louie the fly...
FollowupID: 321736

Reply By: DrewT - Monday, May 24, 2004 at 14:14

Monday, May 24, 2004 at 14:14
Bonz .. i only used 8mm to link the main bty-isolator-aux bty as i only want to charge the aux via this circuit. for the rare occasions (i hope) that i might need to start the veh using the aux i'm happy to just use jumper leads
AnswerID: 59899

Reply By: DrewT - Wednesday, May 26, 2004 at 09:54

Wednesday, May 26, 2004 at 09:54
Louie, used standard single spade type fuse holder (inline) for the lead to fridge. if i need to run more loads off the bty i'll replace it with something like an 8 way fuse box then (just ran out of money on the initial installation!)

for the 60A fuses on the leads to the isolator i also used single inline plugs which accept those square type fuses .. but they are expensive $6ea and would have preferred to source a fuse holder for those large type spade fuses.
AnswerID: 60211

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