Wiring light bar to spotties

No connection required to the existing switch - the new relay will have its coil connected in parallel with the existing one. Simple add-on..

I would suggest another switch so that you can turn the floods off if not required.

If you want the extra switch you would need to insert it between the tow 85 or 86 terminals.
You maybe able to run just one wire to the switch and use a ground or earth to control the relay but not knowling how the relay is being triggered can'y say for sure.

Don't forget a fuse in the battery wire.

TEA,

I'd make up a couple of leads like this:



to link the 2 relays together. Might just need some heat shrink on the female of the piggy back terminal, to reduce likelihood of a short.

From my experience, I'd be reluctant to have both lights on one switch. While it might seem simple to wire up, and give you other switching options for "ron", there are sure to be times, especially where you live, where all those lumens are just a bit too much.

Anyway, you can only try it, eh!

Bob

Another option you could consider is to replace the existing SPST switch with a DPDT switch.

That way you could have it in the CENTRE (OFF) position for just using the factory high beam, throw it in the Down position to have spotties AND LED bar operating with high beam, or throw it in the UP position for just the LED bar or just the spotties.

You would need to decide what auxilliary light you'd prefer if you could only use one not both.
My suggestion would be you'd have the LED bar as the "single" option and when you choose the other/double option you get all the lights on.

Doing it that way you still only use one dash blanking plate. I've done it that way on my previous rigs, but my current set up is for the Fyrlyts to be on a separate switch to the 180 watt LED bar. Invariably the LED bar gets used first because it's not as bright as the Fyrlights which are better for those long distance outback trips where you want to blind the roos and live stock from a kilometer away!!!