Tyre Deflators that remove valve core

I have the ARB version too....... & like it. I tested it's accuracy against my personal standard - a 'certified accurate' Jamec Pem inflator (admittedly now quite a few years old) & both give identical readings. Good enough for me.

Les has reminded me of my intention to get second valves fitted next time the tyres are off. Airing up & down is a pain with valve stem type TPMS sensors.

Thanks for the info. I assume the painful part of TPMS is the grub screw on each. I actually removed mine and so far they haven’t been stolen or come loose after 4 years. They’re fitted full time too. I would expect the system to alarm if they came loose as there would be a pressure reading drop. Regardless, I will enquire about second valves for the TPMS.

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I started out with Staun deflators but found I needed various pressures. Switched to an ARB EZ deflator and found it very convenient. Sure, it takes time to go round the four tyres but never in a hurry outback.
Just need to be careful when connecting to the valve stem so as to not cross-thread and damage the stem.

Hello again Ron.

The Masden TPMS sensors have a special key (square) to fit behind the sensor to undo, and I could see that besides the time taken to R&R these to change pressures or air up, eventually that either the key or back of sensors could get damaged and be extra hard to do the process.

Having TPMS with grub screws and the grubs removed would be less of an issue for sure, so you might not worry 2nd valves.

I suppose there is less chance of mucking up a sensor thread IF you did get 2nd valves, as Allan says, you need to be aware of straight threading . . . this applies to Stauns too, and even valve caps !!

I always carry a few of each various valves and valve stems (lengths) for mine and other vehicles, just in case someone loses or damages something.

If you have TPMS with grub screws and find them a damn nuisance (as I did)
fit T-valves and be done with it.

ps May not suit those who need instant tyre deflation though :)

Regards

Gone off the track of the thread I know, but I discarded the lock nuts on my Masden TPMS sensors after 1 locked so tight the valve stem turned causing a slow leak.

Hi Trev, just for thread info, my Masden don't have lock nuts, but a special key (2 provided, so a spare also available in case you misplace it !!).

The sliver key is kinda [ shaped and wraps around the valve, with a back square spanner shape to fit the notched back under the sensor part.
Easy enough to undo the 3/4 turn and then hand unloosen / retighten, but I wanted to put them on and leave them on to avoid long term issues.
Hence the 2nd valves are perfect.

It is possible to undo with a small spanner I guess, in case an owner was very forgetful :)

Hi Guys,
Agree with Phil. I also have never had an issue. However, over time the mechanism does become more difficult to operate. To solve this problem I use a small amount of rubber grease which lubricates the device.
A friend of mine did have an issue with one of these deflators. Not sure whether it was an ARB branded device, however the issue was that the claw that engages the valve was too narrow and would not engage the valve. Something to look out for.

Yes, mine's had a spray of silicone spray before too.

Nice idea. What stops the air rushing out the second clip on fitting once the first is fitted?

The air does come out the second chuck in the time it takes you to clip the second one on. Its not a great amount. I had considered adding an inline tap but decided it wasnt necessary. You can limit it a little with your thumb.

If it's not a rude question what do these cost, looks very impressive.

Lots of ebay sellers have them for $239. I have heard of Repco selling them for under $200 when they have specials.

It is simply brilliant. It is extremely accurate and totally automatic for inflating or deflating like those at the servos. No sticks, no bending down, no testing retesting,,,,,You can even set 2 preset pressures or any pressure on demand. I have mine set to 22 PSI and 40 PSI. It even has a tyre reseating mode.

It's deflating is fairly fast. From the time you clip it on the wheel to the time you have the exact right pressure it is the fastest inflator and deflator by far. And you end up with pressures that are exactly the same as your TPMS.

Instructions.
1)Set desired pressure
2)Clip onTyre
3)Relax, walk around and drink beer.
4)Wait for beep
5)Go to next wheel.

It's great to relax when airing up or down instead of concentrating on correct pressures. It is rechargeable with a mini USB but I have never had to recharge it in 2 years.

How quick is its deflation compared to valve removal?

Malcolm there was discussion on this on another forum some time back. 4x4 earth??

Let me put it this way. The air deflation with valve removal is about twice as fastas the Jamec Pem. But the Jamec Pem is quicker if you include the time to check pressure and have a few goes at letting air out, and much quicker if you over deflate with the valve removal, and have to put air back in.

Overall it seemed that there was not much between the 2 ways normally. Certainly a ton faster and accurate than my old Stauns

This is from a while ago, but I seem to recall it takes about a minute to go from 40 to 20 PSI with 33" tyres. Because you can do other things and it gets the pressure spot on every time, the time becomes slightly irrelevant if that makes sense.

Understood
Thanks Tony

Hi Tony,

How does it deal with deflation without a compressor attached or can it? I would expect it could deflate slightly too much and want to put a little air back in, like the service station units.

Excellent question Penski. It needs the inlet to be pressurised, the tyre deflation air comes out of a separate valve. So out of the box it doesn't deflate without the compressor connected to it. However if you block the inlet, it will deflate properly. I have a female Nitto that is blocked off that I use to deflate without connecting the compressor.

Interesting it periodically stops to check the pressure then calculates ime to go as it gets close to the desired pressure. It will stop within aroud 0.5 PSI of your setting so doesn't need to "put more back in"

It's bloody smart.

"The day I saw a guy use one on his tyre and it ruined the thread that was it for me. In his case he had already lost the spare. ."

Geez, you'd have to be pretty ham fisted and determined to continue at all costs to do that. I can't understand how people cross-thread clean threads. If it doesn't start and run a few turns on with light finger effort, STOP and find out why. It's not rocket science.

Phew! Now I've got that off my chest - I have an ARB-type screw-on deflator with a gauge that's within a PSI of my digital gauge. I have no issues with it. But the lock screws on the TPMS sensors are indeed a PITA. I've often thought of removing the locking collars when out of town but at $88 a pop for sensors, always talk myself back into leaving them on.

I had my original Stauns set of 4, 2 set for 26, 2 for 18, but not long into various types of driving realised I might need anything from 28 down to 8, and they were just not going to cut it for practicality.

If you manage with 2 psi settings, your setup would work for you, but Stauns x 2 sets what about about $180 (Supercheap), vs ez type deflators (ARB) is about $60 ?

Hi Les,

Your costs are probably right if buying now.
I paid around $60 for the first set of Stauns when planning an off road trip and about the same around 18 months later for a deset trip. They are still reliable and quick when used as a set of four.
As I mentioned, I also have the Ezi Deflator if required.

I've never had the sticky thread issue with the ARB one, but as I mentioned in another post the ARB ones would almost certainly be Chinese made, and most likely all of them come from the one factory with different branding / aesthetic differences.

There could be seconds, picked up by ebay sellers I guess.

Mine is about 7 years old now I guess, working back from when I bought the Ranger, got the deflator not long afterwards.

Thanks Les. It's not the thread itself that gets sticky, it's the O rings or whatever inside the assembly that seem to dry out and make turning that screw-on adapter difficult.

Mine came from Kulkyne Kampers.