Tuesday, Apr 10, 2018 at 13:08
Laz - For tyre advice, there are good referral
places - in the following respective order ...
1. Tyre size and pressure advisory decal or plate mounted on your vehicle (usually on the door frame) ..
2. Tyre load capacity and inflation tables put out by the manufacturer (usually on their company website or on their tyre agency websites) ..
3. The maximum tyre pressure and tyre load capacity, stamped on the wall of the tyre ..
Of all these, No 1 is the first one to refer to. The vehicle manufacturers advice, is usually fairly good advice. However, the tyre manufacturers advice is usually better.
Two - you adjust your tyre pressures according to your current load level, and road conditions and speeds.
If I'm going for a extended country run at 110kmh, I'll bump up my tyre pressures by around 4 psi, all-round.
If I'm carrying a good load, the rear tyre pressures get increased, by up to 20-25 psi, if needed.
I use wall bulge, as a "rule of thumb" indicator, and attempt to roughly match wall bulge between front and rear tyres.
I never exceed the tyre manufacturers recommended pressure.
To do so, risks tyre carcass failure, or fractured rims (and yes, I've seen rims split from excessive pressure)
For 7.50R16's, 40 psi all-round is a fairly good, average-road-condition, tyre pressure.
The vehicle manufacturer always advises the lowest suitable tyre pressures for good road suburban conditions, to give a comfortable ride - and they always advise raising tyre pressures when extended high-speed driving, or substantial load-carrying, is going to be carried out.
The 36 psi rear tyre pressure recommendation by the tyre
shop is obviously a recommendation merely to improve the ride, when completely empty.
Most "commercial" vehicles, particularly those with leaf springs on the rear, give a harsh ride when empty, and many owners complain about that feature.
The tyre
shop is only trying to improve the ride comfort for owners, and is not taking into account, any load carried, or high speed driving, being indulged in.
A good "rule of thumb" guide to correct tyre pressures under the prevailing road conditions and ambient temperature, is to put your hand on your tyres when you stop, after an hours driving.
The tyres should only be cool to comfortably warm to the touch, at most.
A tyre temperature that exceeds 75 deg C will result in the commencement of tyre/rubber degradation that hardens rubber and breaks down the bond between the rubber and the steel/rayon/nylon plies in the tyre.
50 deg C is reasonably hot to the touch, but you can usually keep your hand on the tyre at that temperature.
75 deg C is too hot to hold your hand on, for any length of time.
It also pays to feel the difference between tread temperature and side wall temperature, after a steady period of driving.
If the sidewalls feel noticeably hotter than the tread, the tyres are under-inflated for the conditions.
Interestingly, Michelin state that tyre under-inflation, below the manufacturers recommended pressure, by 30kpa (about 4.5psi) results in 6% additional rolling resistance, and around 1% increase in fuel consumption.
All the above advice is based on 53 years of experience with tyres, ranging from wheelbarrow tyres, to hard-worked ute tyres, to heavy trucks, to huge front-end-loader and dump truck tyres - and just about every road and track condition, one could experience - and it's worth exactly what you paid for it. [;-)
No doubt, other
forum users will provide alternative and conflicting advice and experiences. You be the judge, and adjust your tyre pressures to give a comfortable ride, without overheating the tyres, or causing odd wear patterns.
It's a good idea to try out various tyre pressures to gauge the comfort level and driving/handling response.
Cheers, Ron.
AnswerID:
618208
Follow Up By: splits - Tuesday, Apr 10, 2018 at 20:24
Tuesday, Apr 10, 2018 at 20:24
The vehicle manufacturer always advises the lowest suitable tyre pressures for good road suburban conditions, to give a comfortable ride - and they always advise raising tyre pressures when extended high-speed driving,
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I looked at a lot of car handbooks back in my days in the motor industry many years ago and I can only remember seeing one instruction for increasing the pressure for high speed driving.
The car was a new mid 1970s Jaguar XJ6. The book said for sustained speeds above 120
miles per hour (not ks per hour) increase tyre pressure by 2 psi. I doubt if any Australian owners ever increased their pressures.
The manufacturer of the new set of standard size tyres that I put on my 4x4 ute soon after buying it told me during a phone call to their customer information service to use the pressures in the hand book and if I really must increase them then never go any higher than 4 psi. They also said never reduce them below the handbook pressures.
Toyota's pressures were so low that I thought why would I want to? I have used those pressures for around ten years on everything from mountain tracks to freeways to a few Beadell tracks and they work perfectly with no sign of outside edge wear due to under inflation.
The only exception was to drive to the top of Big Red and back down again. I used 14 front and 18 rear as opposed to 25 front and 32 rear that I used for the whole trip. That was in accordance with the handbook. The 32 rear was a little under maximum because the car was under GVM.
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or substantial load-carrying, is going to be carried out
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Increasing pressures in accordance with an increase in load maintains the front to rear slip angle ratio. The pressure in my front tyres does not increase at any time. The rear is the same as the front when the car is empty but can be raised progressively by an additional 9 psi as the load increases.
Adding weight to the rear will increase the tyre slip angle to the point where it can exceed the front angle. The car will now be prone to oversteer which is sliding its tail out and even spinning if the driver can not control it. By increasing the pressures in accordance with the load, you stiffen the tyre sidewalls and progressively reduce the slip angle. If done correctly, you will end up with the original; front to rear ratio being restored and the car under steering as the manufacture intended.
FollowupID:
890138
Follow Up By: Ron N - Tuesday, Apr 10, 2018 at 20:39
Tuesday, Apr 10, 2018 at 20:39
Well, here's the Tyrepower website advice ...
"On your placard you may also see pressure information for heavy loads and sustained high-speed operation. This is only a guide and if you have any questions it's a good idea to consult with a professional."
Tyrepower - tyre placard
Virtually every tyre placard image I see below, has a recommendation for increased tyre pressure for increased load.
It doesn't take long to find a placard that reads ...
"For speeds above 140kmh, inflation pressure shall be increased by 60kPa (9 psi)".
Granted that there are only a few
places in Australia where one can sustain in excess of 140kmh for an extended period - but they do exist.
Google images - tyre placards
The VN SS and Calais tyre placard clearly states - "Where shown, 30kPa (4 psi) to be added for consistent high speed operation".
Tyre placard - VN SS and Calais
Cheers, Ron.
FollowupID:
890140
Follow Up By: splits - Tuesday, Apr 10, 2018 at 21:48
Tuesday, Apr 10, 2018 at 21:48
Virtually every tyre placard image I see below, has a recommendation for increased tyre pressure for increased load.
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That is what I just said in my last post along with the handling related reason for it. There is also the need for more air to support the additional load. There is more than just one reason for increasing rear pressures as the load increases.
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Virtually every tyre placard image I see below, has a recommendation for increased tyre pressure for increased load.
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That does not surprise me. Unfortunately we did not have an endless supply of customers at work years ago with seriously high performance cars so it was not mentioned in all the books that I looked at except for the Jag.
One question that comes from increasing the pressure for sustained high speed is what is considered to be high speed, if the manufacturer does not state a figure, and what is the starting point for each owner?
Many owners use their own pressures and there will most likely be a wide variation from one car to the next.. Do they add two or maybe four psi to those pressures or go back to the factory ones in the book and add a few psi?
There are a lot of screwed up cars on the road that are running on their owner's
suspension mods.. Some will get away with it while some wont. If a
suspension alteration does contribute to an accident, most owners will still be none the wiser.
FollowupID:
890146
Follow Up By: Laz - Sunday, Apr 22, 2018 at 09:00
Sunday, Apr 22, 2018 at 09:00
Hi, Ron.
Thank you very much for your reply - tons of info.
Yes, I was following the Toyota recommendations from the placard. And when the time came to change the tyres set, I was told that the wear pattern was of "under-inflated tyres". Go fugure.
I am always careful about cornering speed, braking and acceleration, etc.,
I will stick to the vehicle recommendations, playing up within 5 PSI maybe.
Regards,
FollowupID:
890473
Follow Up By: Member - Chucklingwater - Sunday, May 06, 2018 at 15:54
Sunday, May 06, 2018 at 15:54
Me too,I have a Toyota Troopy, "Under inflated tyres" the tyre people tell me when wear they out too soon, wearing on the outsides far too much. They always looked saggy but that's what the door plate says to put in them. I run them considerably higher than the doorplate tells me and higher again when towing the camper. I don't know how many times people have said " your tyres look a bit low" and they do, but the pressure is still higher than recommended. Go figure.
FollowupID:
890771
Follow Up By: Laz - Sunday, May 06, 2018 at 21:27
Sunday, May 06, 2018 at 21:27
Hi, Chucklingwater. Thank you very much for your reply.
What kind of tyres do you run? And at what pressure?
Regards,
Laz.
FollowupID:
890783