Jacking up a Campomatic camper with Alko suspension ?

Submitted: Thursday, Sep 23, 2021 at 20:36

ThreadID: 142617 Views:7791 Replies:6 FollowUps:6

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Member - Outback Gazz

G'day All

I recently purchased a 2006 Campomatic camper trailer. Got it in my shed today to tweak a few things to suit my needs and tidy a few things up to make it look newer. Got some new rims and tyres for it and this arvo thought I would quickly put them on - what a hassle !

The only place I could put a jack was under the shocker mounts due to the angled design of the Alko suspension. The bottle jack I have has a high lift and got the wheel off the ground easily but after putting an axle stand under the rear chassis which needed some solid concrete blocks under to reach the main chassis at the back as there is no axle then when letting the jack down the wheel just sat back on the concrete due to the good travel in the suspension.

So then I got my hi-lift trolley jack out only to find I can't get the jack centre under the shocker mount due to the jack hitting the tyre irrespective of how I positioned the jack. Then I got my old dangerous hi-lift jack out but found there is no solid place to put it.

So with a second jack on more concrete blocks after the first jack reached its limit I eventually got the wheel off the ground and the trailer now safely on an axle stand (on more concrete blocks) under the rear chassis I'm ready to change a wheel.

So could someone please tell me how the buck am I supposed to change a tyre on the camper out bush somewhere should I be unlucky enough to get a flat - without carrying 2 jacks 6 concrete blocks 8 pieces of hardwood or a gantry, block and tackle ??

Thought I would mention the bottom of the chassis is 700mm off the ground

Hope this makes sense as I'm on my ?? beer lol

Cheers
Gazz

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Reply By: Bushranger1 - Thursday, Sep 23, 2021 at 21:43

Reply By: RMD - Thursday, Sep 23, 2021 at 22:51

Thursday, Sep 23, 2021 at 22:51

Gazz
I presume it is the rubber suspension and not the trailing arm and coil spring variety of Alko. They jack up easily.

If you procure some heavy steel channel which fits over the arm and is long enough to extend past the tyre. The end of the channel can be jacked upwards to lift the wheel. Some device, similar to lynch pin would need to be used on inner side of arm in two places to hold it snugly/securely. This can be used for both sides when reversed. Best to have a piece of solid round steel welded to the jack end on two opposite edges so as to engage with the jack properly. That outer end can be boxed in so ensure forces don't bend the channel. Much lighter than concrete blocks and easier to store and carry.
The device may need some dogleg to get past the tyre.
Alternate to the lynch pin fixing, a suitable heavy sq form C section which will slide over the arm if a flat plate style is what you have. This could also be fabricated specially for the job.

AnswerID: 638031

Follow Up By: Member - Outback Gazz - Friday, Sep 24, 2021 at 07:55

Friday, Sep 24, 2021 at 07:55

Trailing arm suspension

RMD

It's the trailing arm type.
And after some online research this morning I see Alko make bolt on jack brackets.

I will play around a bit with it as I think I might have an idea to make something up to use my bottle jack.

Thanks for the reply

Cheers
Gazz

FollowupID: 916237

Follow Up By: Member - McLaren3030 - Friday, Sep 24, 2021 at 08:06

Friday, Sep 24, 2021 at 08:06

Hi Gazz,

My full off road caravan has a similar suspension. It has jacking points on the chassis, I need my Trailer-mate HiLift hydraulic Jack to reach it. I agree, they are heavy, probably the heaviest single item I have to carry. I also carry a few blocks of treated pine sleeper off cuts to use under my stabiliser legs, so they can also be used under the Jack if necessary.

Macca.

Macca.

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FollowupID: 916239

Follow Up By: RMD - Friday, Sep 24, 2021 at 10:48

Friday, Sep 24, 2021 at 10:48

Gazz
Thanks for clarifying the type. Please forget all I mentioned re, rubber suspension.
It shouldn't be hard to make or have made a piece of sturdy RHS to fit under the arm and catch the top of the pivot area steel RHS. That way you can still lift with a hydraulic jack on the end of the attachment.
Just lifting the arm sufficiently to remove a wheel or a bit higher to remove a flat tyre/wheel and allow fitment of spare.
I don't like jacking heavy things into the sky to allow for suspension droop before you even begin to get near wheel changing possibility.

I made a U shaped plate link and drop chain on an extendable RHS. The larger RHS slid over the inner bit. That way the outer end could raised with a Hi lift jack and the inner end on opposite side member of ute chassis. That way you can lift the whole side, wheels off ground if need be.