New air filter system for Toyota 200 Series V8 Diesels

I am tossing up whether to outlay the $ for the new Donaldson kit. I suppose what price compared to $30K odd for a new engine if dusted. For now, I am still using some closed cell foam strip and rubber grease on the airbox to provide a better seal which thus far is working OK, but might just have to bite the bullet if planning some more outback travel.

For information, the LCOOL forum will be up and running hopefully in "another week or two" according to a reply to the email I sent last week.

Cheers

Dave

Thanks, Yes it looks the goods, Robert. I do get minor dust on the clean side of mine, however I am not convinced that the internet "dusting" problem is directly related to the filtration. It is a poor design that allows the filter to be installed upside down or with the seal compromised. I always check mine after a service.

However, I will buy one of these based on The Project 200 review. Jamie makes a convincing case for efficiency, and it is one of the few mods that are demonstrably better than OE.

will be interesting to see if the lid spring clips of this filter will be able to hold 700 nm of motor torque as it pushed against them. It has never been the filter in my mind, its the rubber hose from the filter to the motor that is so rigid, it has no giv, and lifts the lid on a std filter. we shall see....

I have ordered one through Western Filters and ETA is expected to be mid Feb

I just like the design and the filter should last a long time.

The filter lasts well on tractors in dusty environments so should do the job on my 200

Purchased (preordered in October) and installed last week, a very well designed and constructed piece of equipment, from past experience with Donaldson in mining equipment I except no signs of dust on the clean side of housing again, I do agree however that the oh so rigid tube connecting the filter box to engine, original Toyota, may be a problem. If it causes dramas then i will investigate changing out to a combination of silicon pipes and rigid pipe

Well the questions was asked and now supply is arriving around the country. So there's going to be some follow ups on this so here's mine.

The kit arrived yesterday and after carefully unpacking the various boxed items a few initial observations until I do the install once the weather cools down a bit more.

My first suggestion is to disassemble the unit into its three main components, the main body, end cap and internal filter. This makes it much easier to handle the unit up to completing the installation in the car.

Overall design and feel is akin to something I would expect from mining or defence industries, vis, excellent eco-skeleton and fine tolerance fit of all parts. All components are definitely fit for purpose based on trying to flex the body of the filter compartment and that did not move. Sealing is both large in size and fit between the body and the detachable front is once again very good. The clamps feel stronger than the OE versions to start with.

Putting it together is straightforward. BUT the internet videos don't show some finer points of detail that are vital to getting it right.

Firstly the drain plug. This takes patience to fit correctly but when done is perfectly OK. If this quite small part is forced it may possibly break and that's not something I would want on mine. So message is take it slowly as there's no need to force it in. DO NOT use anything sharp/pointed rather a chopstick proved to be an excellent tool.

Second is fitment to the intake in the guard. If you have a snorkel you don't have to use the supplied industrial and self adhesive foam. If you DO NOT have a snorkel this foam has to be fitted. Once again patience and practice provide the best path to a successful outcome here. Firstly clean the outer surface of the intake using isopropyl alcohol only as this is about the only cleaner of its type I know of that doesn't leave a residue. Then, once dry, carefully and slowly roll the foam tape around the intake tube keeping it below the surface of the intake ring/outer. I suggest then rolling it with something round to get the best possible adhesion to the outer surface of the intake tube/body.

Once that's all done the rest is quite simple to follow the instructions and carry out. The two bolt in brackets only go on one way so that's impossible to get wrong. I suggest not fully tightening any of the bolts until you're ready to do the install.

Dealing with the MAFS can be left until the install. I will be using an approved MAFS cleaner to make sure this part is totally clean for the next steps

Again take your time and do a few dry assembly runs before tackling the final build is my suggestion and I found doing that a day or so before I actually get around to fitting it allowed me to better the units weight and how it feels so when it comes to the install your not handling something that feels out of balance in some way.

So whilst the above may sound a bit tedious it's not at all and is there to cover the gaps that are in all the videos

I will update this regarding the install once I get that done over the next few days

All the best to anyone who has already done their install. It will be interesting to hear what changes/improvements we all find. Mine will become evident during this years trip when we travel the GCR to the Pilbara then back to Alice via the Gary Junction then to East Arnhem Land. That should be enough field testing to get a pretty decent idea of how this airfilter system works in the real world

Rob