4.2 TDI GU-My investigations into showers, rear drawers,lockers and powerups...

Submitted: Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 14:42
ThreadID: 16163 Views:4941 Replies:10 FollowUps:33
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Afternoon,

For all who may be looking at getting one of the above items I hereby log my findings:

Showers:

I went to ARB, TJM, and a couple of one man shows to look at Glind's, Twines, and Pirahna showers. My purpose for a shower of this style has a dual purpose, 1. to clean my stinky self at night and 2. to charge the batteries whilst the fridge is running at night whilst stopped for an extended period. I have decided on a Glind for again, 2 reasons: TJM at the Gabba in Brisbane actually have all of the brackets and will fit it for $250.00. The Glind is some $100 cheaper than the twine, and replacement parts are also somewhat cheaper. TJM has access to stainless quick release fittings and these will be installed into the guard with a cap provided to stop 'crap' getting into the system. Install 1 day.

Rear Drawers:

Again, I went to QLD Bullbars, ARB, TJM and looked at Black Widow, Outback, and Dept of Interior. Whilst the Outback Drawer probably has the best finish, it weighs from memory twice as much as any other drawer (and costs twice as much just about). Also the outback comes flat packed and in about 6000 pieces obviously increasing either fitting costs and/or your own frustrations! Black Widow IMHO did not have a great finish and was also more costly and weighty. Dept of Interior do a 2 drawer setup with fridge slide and removable table under fridge slide (to stop stuff falling into drawers). It's made of marine ply and half the weight of the other drawers, still has bearing runners, quality lock clips and hd carpet. For some $600 cheaper and half the weight than the other competition, I ordered one of those. You will expect a 4 week weight. Install 2-3 hours.

Lockers:

INHO, air lockers are the way to go. Lockrites, and Detroits have become more costly over the years and the airlocker allows the user to disengage when necessary. Downsides, lots more to go wrong and/or playup, relays, air hoses, air leaks etc etc. But, in the long run, proper maintenance will prevent any issues. A member of this site is a distributor and has helped me get a great deal including freight. I thank him very much for his assistance. ARB charge around $400 for fitting, my local perfectionist diff specialist whom I've known for a while wants $150 for install and $100 for my autolecky down the road to fit compressor and hd wiring, and switches. Further, my diff bloke wont re-use the old oil albiet 3000k's old. All in all, saved about $300-400 in total. 2 days install.

Power Upgrade (in 10,000k's time, told to wait until 15000k's)

A fellow I used from the Gabba here in Brisbane (John Whittaker) from Brisbane Turbos and Tuning would be my preferred choice. I went to Motsons at Beaudesert as well. Motsons for a stage 2 power up want around $2600 for turbo re-fit, anaroid and fuel pump calibration, 3 inch exhaust. If your vehicle is around 60,000k's and older, they will need to replace a sleeve in the turbo with an oversize unit ($190) and another $400 or so to put in a bigger dump pipe. You will get around 30-40% but your highest torgue will come at around 3400rpm. You will get about 125hp.

John Whittaker informed me today that the EGR needs to be cleaned every 10,000k's and is the biggest reason why the 4.2TDI is such a slug. In normal city driving, he said that the pipe will halve in size over 10k of driving. For $1,900, he will increase boost from standard to 12psi, re-cal fuel pump, replace injectors, run 3inch mandrel bent system from turbo out, disconnect egr but leave looking standard for service purposes of course, dyno pre and post, pyro fitted, and provide $150 service including pre and post dyno every 12 months. He has done 20 over the last year and provided me with copies of dyno reports. Getting around 145hp from 12psi. However has told me upfront that I will not acheive better fuel economy, but less EGT when under load. This was the way my previous truck ran. Lost about a k/L but lost 150 degrees when driving up Toowoomba Range towing 825 kg offroad camper. Install 2 days.

So there you have it folks, after 2 weeks of escaping early from work and do some investigations, these are my findings, hopefully there may be some other explorites out there wondering what the best way is to go. Perhaps my finds won't suit you, but it's a start!

Cya round the traps!

Chris.
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Reply By: Michael - Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 14:54

Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 14:54
And?!!!
AnswerID: 75828

Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 14:58

Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 14:58
And...If I spend anymore money on the car before I get my renovations done, my wife will kill me ;-). Boy, I'm glad it's a tax deduction, the wife will thank me...eventually.
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Follow Up By: sean - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 00:13

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 00:13
Chris

I recently had a locker fitted to front of Gu 4.2 and only reliable place to fit compressor is under front seat. AND it has spurted oil all over the place under there - not good. There seems to be a current problem with seals in lockers adn there is a current recall - but ARB have not recognised it being a problem in the GU so are not replacing the seals in mine (yet). With the benefit of hindsight, I would not go the locker if I had my chance again until I was sure it did not spurt the diff oil out into the interior of the car. If it was happening under the bonnet who knows what hot surface the oil might be sprayed onto and you would not know it was happening. Might pay to wait a few months.

Sean
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Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 08:02

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 08:02
Thanks Sean, I'll have a chat to ARB and see if I can source anything further...
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Reply By: Member - Captain (WA) - Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 15:40

Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 15:40
Hi Chris,

Thats a good, well researched thread complete with reasons why you chose what you did. Hope you certainly enjoy your new toys.

Cheers

Captain
AnswerID: 75837

Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 08:02

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 08:02
Gday Captain,

See how we go. Should be the last of my purchases for a while, better start working again to pay for next spree...

Have a good one,

Cheers

Chris.
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Reply By: madcow - Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 15:48

Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 15:48
Mind if I see the pics of the Glind shower installation to compare with mine? Also I would be interested to see if it runs hot off idle. Given you are in Qld it probably will!
Sounds like it is a great setup but funds do not allow me to do that much in one go.

Cheers Dave
AnswerID: 75840

Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 08:04

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 08:04
Gday Madcow,

Sure! It gets installed next Thursday, so I'll be sure to post pictures of the setup, I'll chat to trucky or something and see if we can sort getting the photos on a post by link.

cheers mate,

Chris.
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Reply By: Truckster (Vic) - Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 16:22

Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 16:22
AG Diesel in Melbourne are talking LARGE power increases on TD6s without turbo/intercooler mods.
AnswerID: 75845

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 17:08

Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 17:08
How then ?

3" exhaust pipe?

Up boost?

Up fuel pump?
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Follow Up By: Truckster (Vic) - Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 23:41

Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 23:41
Dunno,

Johnno the pres of all terrain club was telling me. he has a TD6 and was talking to them about it.

Call em.
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Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 08:07

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 08:07
Gday Truckster and Roachie,

Don't live near Melbourne obviously, so can't go there without making a holiday of it...hmmmmm.

Would suggest it's probably disconnecting EGR, both Motsons and Brisbane Tuning both flick the EGR as it get's stooged up with crap really quickly.

Trucky, is that John Rolly? Cause he just bought a ute or something with the TD6 in it and is getting some serious stuff done to it.

Get some info if you can. Run an office in Melbourne as well, so it could be a tax deduction ;-) .

Cheers

Chris.
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Follow Up By: Michael - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 12:58

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 12:58
Problem is , power increases normally come out of higher fuel consumption.....
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Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 13:05

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 13:05
Last truck was about a kay per litre. Having said that, EGT temps were lower, good for engine longevity as long as it's not too cold.

For me, towing a tonne and losing a kay per litre but not having to push the truck is a much more pleasant experience.
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Follow Up By: Truckster (Vic) - Saturday, Sep 11, 2004 at 13:15

Saturday, Sep 11, 2004 at 13:15
Na, not Roly, seen his ute already ;)

Anyway Roly lives in S hitney...
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Reply By: rolande- Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 17:51

Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 17:51
Chris,
Just a question on showers, I have been through the same process in the past few weeks, after initially ruling out one of the portable gas ones for various reasons. I have spoken to Helton about their different units. They recommend a double bypass unit for Patrols as they can provide hot, (relative), water at idle, no horror stories of 3000 RPM to have a shower, and can be fitted in other places as all in/out lines are on top of the unit. From memory they quoted $174 for just the exchanger but I think this is the way I will go. Any thoughts??
Rolande
AnswerID: 75856

Follow Up By: Member - Ivan (ACT) - Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 18:02

Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 18:02
Hi Rolande - can you describe 'double bypass' please..
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Follow Up By: rolande- Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 21:11

Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 21:11
Ivan,
Sorry, that should have been double pass. Rather than water flowing through the heat exchanger once before the shower it gets a double pass, giving more chance for the water to heat before being pumped to the shower head. The link is below, this is what they recommended for my application

http://www.helton.com.au/hot%20water%20system.htm

regards

Rolande
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Follow Up By: Member - Ivan (ACT) - Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 22:06

Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 22:06
Sorry Rolande - still struggling... I understand the concept - but not sure how the water is routed (at least without having an extra input and output connector!!

Can you point me in the right direction please...
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Follow Up By: rolande- Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 22:18

Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 22:18
Ivan,
I haven't seen the indside of the Helton so cannot answer 100%, but just from experience with other forms of heat exchanger i think they simply mean that they run twice the amount of coil inside the cannister, through two loops rather than one, and it is all contained within the cannister. Does that make sense? In one connector, round loop, back through second loop, then out second connector? I think. Will have to ask Helton for more info. Hope this helps.
Rolande
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Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 08:10

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 08:10
Gday Rolande and Ivan,

To solve this problem without having to spend the earth, if you have the option, see someone to fabricate, our of stainless or alli, a heat exchange, my father out law has one on the front of his bullbar, it actually runs through the usual setup, but then through another exchange on the bullbar, I can get photos if you want. It's on a GQ 2.8 TD Patrol. Excellent idea and he idles it at around 1500rpm, enough to excite the alternator and give you plenty of hot water.

Cheers

Chris.
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Follow Up By: Michael - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 13:29

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 13:29
Hi Ivan, how did you go with your heat exchanger, was it an air lock causing the lack of temp output to the shower head?
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Reply By: cokeaddict - Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 19:45

Thursday, Sep 09, 2004 at 19:45
Hi Chris,
Just my 2 cents worth on the glind shower system.
I had one in my GQ, I was happy with it until i saw a Twine set up in a GU. I started to think mine was blocked or faulty. I had to run engine at over 2000 rpm to get a warm shower in winter.
By mistake I rang Twine thinking it was one of their systems. They invited me up to thier place of business and when the bonnet was opened, they informed me its a glind.
Well they did a test on a twine setup on a GU Diesel that was stone cold. In less than 4 minutes this thing was pumping some seriously hot water. I was impressed and bought the heater exchange unit. Installed it to my original glind bracket.
Once i removed the air from the system i found that i had extremely hot water from the shower head, something i never had before. The best part was I no longer had to run my engine at over 2000 rpm. Once water heated up i could run engine at 800 prm to achieve great hot showers. I was at the stage now where I had to control temp using my heater slider in dash which i never had the option of doing before.
My point here is, choose it carefully and dont go on price. I did and it ended up costing me an extra 200 bucks before i realised the glind is no match.

Just wanted to let you know before you make your choice.
Regards Angelo
AnswerID: 75866

Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 08:15

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 08:15
Gday Angelo,

Thanks for the tips, will definitely look into it. TJM had a Glind on their show car and hadn't been run all day. He started it up and ran it at around 1200rpm for 5 mins, the water came out pretty hot, enough to have a shower comfortabley.

I will however take your advice on board and go and re-check on the Glind and Twine. Was your exchange unit ever checked?? Perhaps it was a dud, just on a side point. From memory, I'm pretty sure that the only difference between a Glind and Twine exchange is one is full copper and one is rubber/plastic on outside and copper inside.

I'll keep you posted.

Cheers again,

Chris.
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FollowupID: 335730

Follow Up By: cokeaddict - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 10:21

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 10:21
Chris,
Yes mate, when i got home i opened it up and found it to be flowing well. No blockages.
The twine is all metal and has many more coil loops than the glind did.
The main advantage i liked about the Twine was that all metal dody and heaps more coil loops which allow shower water to heat up more. I believe this is the reason i can now run engine at 800 prm to keep water hot. My original thought was that my old glind was faulty, thats what lead me to call twine (thinking it was one of their units)

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FollowupID: 335755

Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 10:29

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 10:29
Hmmmmm. Thanks for the advice mate. I'll look into it this afternoon. I was told 1500rpm would be enough. But as usual, they may be overexcited when it comes to figures. Multiply and/or divide by ten, whichever gives you the better figure!

I guess living in QLD and all and being slow, it'll take me 30 minutes each night to figure out how the shower works anyway, so by then it should be hot.
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Follow Up By: madcow - Monday, Sep 13, 2004 at 15:14

Monday, Sep 13, 2004 at 15:14
The temp of the water being drawn has a HUGE impact on the temp on the output. It would be good to compare whilst drawing cold water ( say 4 deg) and do a comparison then. We found the Twine to be too hot and used the temp control when we were last in Qld. In all I would buy another one.
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Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Monday, Sep 13, 2004 at 15:22

Monday, Sep 13, 2004 at 15:22
Thanks madcow!!!
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Reply By: Austravel - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 09:21

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 09:21
Hi,

Well written.

What is the EGR??

Can you safely increase the boost pressures to 12psi over the long term?? Be interested in your results for the power upgrade as I'm looking at the same thing myself.

What are DTS like they do a similar thing to Motsons??

Thanks
AnswerID: 75915

Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 09:33

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 09:33
Hi Austravel,

Thanks mate.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) is nothing new to emission controls but Nissan has doubled the amount of recirculated gas to the intake to further improve and clean up combustion. So it goes through twice before expending the exhaust into the atmosphere. I guess if there are greenies watching this site, it would be quite disturbing but performance wise, it's a killer.

The TD6 only has around 45hp when starting from 1st gear and the performance of the motor only picks up around 2000rpm, which is quite a huge lag!

Used MTQ/DTS when I first had the GQ done, fitting done quite well, but setup really bad. Leaned off to the max and funning 12psi, ran hot and peformed like a dog, didn't blow and smoke which was what led me to believe something was wrong.

I've asked the longevity/12psi question of both companies, and the answer was a firm yes. I ran 12psi in my GQ for 150 thou without a hitch. All they ask is that the truck be brought in every 12 months for a 'tune', that is fine tuning pump etc and dyno to ensure everything like clockwork.

I for one do not enjoy flogging my truck up a range in 3rd or 4th towing, I lose my enjoyment of driving. If I can knock it back to 4th and cruise up a range at 100k's an hour without putting the foot through the floor, surely that is better for the motor?

See what happens, and I'll keep ya posted. Want to do another 10 thou k's before considering powerup.

Cheers mate,

Chris.
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Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 10:11

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 10:11
G'day Chris,
You mentioned about going up hill towing and needing to drop back to 4th or 3rd gear......
I'm at a stage where I am trying to justify not using 5th gear when towing.....there is apparently some recommendation (from Nissan?) that 5th should not be used when towing; it's an overdrive only. Sounds like BS to me....I cannot picture myself cruising @ 100kph in 4th gear all the time, doing about 2800rpm, can you? My camper weighs about 1200kg and the Nissan is rated to tow 3500kg. You would think that 1200kg would hardly be an overstress on 5th, eh?
My 5th gear was replaced under warranty as the earlier GUs had a sus cog.
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Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 10:20

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 10:20
Roachie,

Howdy mate.

Well, I haven't ever really towed with 4th anyway. I know I keep referring to my last truck, powered up and all, but it cruised in 5th up ranges etc towing without a prob and held 100, would drop about 10k's over a long extended hill if towing, if not towing would accelerate.

But with all due respect to Nissan, everythings the same in the GU as the GQ (4.2) so why not use 5th??? 5th never crapped itself in the old one, although I'm not too sure whether they changed the gearbox at all in the GU??? I may stand corrected.

And your right mate, who wants to sit on 2800rpm up a long range towing a tonne? I did that on a trip up to Yeppoon in the GQ naturally aspirate towing a kimberley, had trucks overtaking me up ranges!

Now there is the alternative of buying the 4.8 and avoiding all of this, but I want to have some cash left over when paying for fuel.

I think long term, it's a path if towing we must take. If not towing and using soley as a tourer, it would be perfect standard.

Have you ever had your dynoed after the 3inch exhaust etc?
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Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 22:16

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 22:16
G'day Chris,
Dyno'd last year (August) at Hi Tech Diesel in Adelaide after they tuned the pump and injectors etc. Graph shows it was putting out about 91kw at the rear wheels, which they reckon was about 12% higher than a "standard" 4.2TD.
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Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Monday, Sep 13, 2004 at 07:23

Monday, Sep 13, 2004 at 07:23
Roachie,

I'd reckon that's actually substantially higher, whilst talking to the guys at Motsons and Brisbane Turbos, they both mentioned that Nissan's figures have been 'sexed' up a little. If you have 91 kw at the rears, I'd go as far as to suggest your probably 20% better!

Thanks for the infor mate.

Chris.
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Reply By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 10:12

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 10:12
G'day Chris,
Where do they plan to fit the heat exchanger on yours?
AnswerID: 75924

Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 10:27

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 10:27
Gday mate,

Have to talk it over with them next Thurs when fitted. It appears that the pump will be fitted in the spare spot on the passenger side behind the second battery and backing onto the firewall. As for the exchange, apparently they will squeeze it onto the guard again on the passengers side near the radiator. I'll be interested to see where. Glad I'm not fitting it...

I told them I wanted to quick release fittings mounted permanently into the gaurd so I guess the plumbing will have to be close otherwise there'll be pipes running everywhere. I also asked for the main switch to be put inside the cab instead of in the engine bay, the person showering can control the pump it appears with the slide switch on the shower head. Where did they put yours?

Glad I heeded your advice and had a fuse block put in!

Cheers,

Chris.
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Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 22:36

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 22:36
Chris,
I fitted mine myself.
The heat exchanger sits out from the firewall above the rocker cover. I have ABS so had to use brackets to make it sit out away from the pipes for ABS. I secured it to firewall using 2 captive bolts protruding. The pump is mounted on the inside left mudguard, behind the windscreen washer bottle. There was a spot there only just big enough to "drop" it into and it is also held in place by a bracket I made up. The switch is next to the pump. I think it would be a PITA to have the switch inside the cab (just my opinion). The water hoses (in and out) both terminate on the bullbar with male quick-connects. I have a red cover over each one which stops crap getting in when I'm driving. Hopefully you will close up pics of this in the forthcoming article in 4WD Monthly in a couple of months.
I did see some photos on the net somewhere recently of a shower exchanger on a TD6 and it was mounted above the exhaust manifold. Can't remember where though...it was a link from on here I think.
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Follow Up By: Michael - Saturday, Sep 11, 2004 at 10:12

Saturday, Sep 11, 2004 at 10:12
Hey Roachie!! 4WD monthlyt will have to do a centrespread photo or use a wide angle lens for your overweight vehicle....LOL.
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Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Monday, Sep 13, 2004 at 07:25

Monday, Sep 13, 2004 at 07:25
Gday Roachie,

Fair enough, I'll be sure to advise where they put it. As for Michaels comment, I'd reckon they'll need 25 pages for all the gear on Roachies truck!

Cheers

Chris.
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Reply By: Ian from Thermoguard Instruments - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 11:02

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 11:02
Hi Chris,

Your post on accessories and upgrades is well-researched and informative. While you say the Brisbane Turbos & Tuning upgrade includes fitting of a pyrometer, could I ask you to have a brief look at my EGT Indicator offering, on my website? I'd be very pleased to discuss any questions you may have. I'm located in Brisbane at the moment, so I'd be happy to show you the installation in my Discovery.
Regards,
AnswerID: 75928

Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 11:19

Friday, Sep 10, 2004 at 11:19
Gday Ian,

Thanks mate.

As for the thermoguard instrument, pls email me at cm@btlawyers.com.au to advise why it is a better unit than say a VDO Analogue guauge.

Cheers mate for the info,

Chris.
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Reply By: crayman - Thursday, Sep 16, 2004 at 22:53

Thursday, Sep 16, 2004 at 22:53
Thank`s Chris for your very informative post on 4.2tdi .I have a 2003 GQ 4.2tdi ST which has now done 40k i still have my old 4.2 d which i aftermarket turboed at 40k now 225k and find side by side old gq goes harder than the GU ,I note your comments re EGR guming up,
can i clean out and disconect EGR unit,any clues as to how you do this
Maurie
AnswerID: 76719

Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Friday, Sep 17, 2004 at 07:24

Friday, Sep 17, 2004 at 07:24
Gday Crayman,

I'm going to have a really good chat to brisbane turbos this afternoon and make sure the info I get is all up to date and accurate.

I'm not too sure what the cleaning process is, but I'll find out for you.

Cheers

Chris.
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