Me again! Oil change in the GU...

Submitted: Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 12:03
ThreadID: 16447 Views:3051 Replies:5 FollowUps:11
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Gday all,

I'm up for the 5000 change in the Patrol. Nissan have informed me that they change oil and that's it at 5000.

My options are, which I intend to take:

Change both filters every 5000 and;
Select my own oil for life of vehicle.

Nissan at present run a Castrol Magnetec SP through the donks, but may change if they get a better deal with another oil company.

I'm assuming synthetic is better for the newer donks, but that's as far as my knowledge goes. I had a look at the manafacturers booklet but it seems to be behind the times.

So what should I run? I don't mind spending an extra $20 or $30 for quality if it means running cleaner with less wear!

Cheers guys and gals.

Chris.
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Reply By: sevo - Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 12:40

Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 12:40
What filters do you use?
Steve
AnswerID: 77275

Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 14:03

Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 14:03
Dunno yet mate, haven't changed them! ;-)
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Follow Up By: sevo - Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 16:02

Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 16:02
Gday Chris,
How long does it yake for your oil light to go out from a clod start?
Steve
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Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Wednesday, Sep 22, 2004 at 07:27

Wednesday, Sep 22, 2004 at 07:27
Gday again Sevo,

Around 3-5 seconds I think.

Cheers

Chris.
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Reply By: Member - Bradley- Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 12:45

Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 12:45
Hey chris i just read the post outlining your mods, sounds real nice, you obviously want it to work hard but you are prepared to look after it. With the oil, basically because of the declining sulphur levels in the fuel the oil in the diesels have to carry a lot more soot loading and resist sludging etc. at the moment the best oils to use are the ci4 but even these will soon be outdated. I would recommend choosing a major player and stick with their line of oil, as there will be less dramas when up specing later, a ci4 mineral should handle the work ok as you are going to change it every 5k anyway, once you have narrowed down your choices of ci4 oils ,look for the manufacturer approvals, the more the better, as the better additive packs are used to meet their specs, any of the ones meeting the volvo vds3 rating are really good. do some oil condition monitoring at the change to establish its condition, and only go to a synthetic if it's soot loading is no good or its base number drops too low, the oil report will tell you whats what. And buy it in 20 Litre drums, you will save heaps.

AS for the nissan boost control trouble you mentioned in the other post, it sounds like a wastegate problem plain and simple, either the sizing is marginal or the actuator is faulty.
AnswerID: 77277

Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 14:12

Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 14:12
Right. So what your saying is continue using stuff from the ground as opposed to man made?

Your last post confused me a little. I'd really like to know what brands some have had great experience with running a higher performance vehicle. I found that Shell 15w/40 went well in the GQ TD42 naturally aspirated but was stuffed by 3000k's in after turbo 12psi etc. The tappets would be noisy etc.

I guess I need something that will lube quickly at cold start up, and can stand long runs, at the higher temps due to mods and last 5000k's.
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Follow Up By: Member - Bradley- Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 22:06

Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 22:06
Chris, no doubt the synthetics are far superior, but from experience i think a good mineral will do the trick, especially as you are committing to 5k changes, most of the good dedicated diesel oils are a 15w40 , although you can get 10w40 as well. the mob i used to work for(f.u.c.h.s.) had a great ci4 oil - ultralube 15w40 that gave excellent milage in high horsepower trucks (600 - 750 hp) regularly giving at least 10-20k more than rimulax or global(bp). so it wouldn't struggle in your rig. But if you want to spend the bucks, by all means go a full syn. Hope this clears it up a bit.
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Reply By: sevo - Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 13:23

Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 13:23
Gday Bradley,
The ZD30 engine in the patrol does not have a waste gate fitted there is a variable vane that controls the spool speed of the compressor wheel. The variable vane is controlled via the computer using a VVT soleniod. just thought i would let you know.
Thanks
Steve
AnswerID: 77282

Follow Up By: Truckster (Vic) - Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 13:28

Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 13:28
Chris has a real engine in his. Doesnt milk come in 3ltr?

:)~
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Follow Up By: Member - Bradley- Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 13:30

Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 13:30
Ah variable vane angle , ok still sound like a bypass control issue, i assume the vvt type controller is similar to a stepper motor on a throttle body, and they probably get sticky in their actuation, thereby not bypassing the correct amount of exhaust gas at high loads and giving an overboost situation. Thanks for the info Steve. (you can tell i'm not a nissan man) . Sounds like a worthy mod would be to fit an external wastegate like a turbonetics unit as a safety 'fuse' .
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Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 14:38

Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 14:38
Trucky,

Absolutely, even if I did have to spend more to the same power output...

Bradley,

No probs mate with boost. It's alllllllllll good.

Cheers,

Chris.
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FollowupID: 336905

Reply By: Jimbo (WA) - Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 17:02

Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 17:02
G'day Chris,

As Brad sisd, stick with a major player and whatever they recommend for your particular engine and you'll be OK.

Most major oil manufacturers have "lube recommendation" pages on their websites that relate to particular models of vehicles and recommend which of their products are suitable for the task.

Castrol recommend Magnatec for your vehicle. Here is the link to their guide. Mobil, Shell and most others have the same facility on their site.

Hope this is useful info

AnswerID: 77308

Follow Up By: Jimbo (WA) - Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 17:06

Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 17:06
Bugger, the link doesn't appear to be working. Cut and paste this into your address bar and hit go

http://www.castrol.com.au/lube_guide/index.html

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Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Wednesday, Sep 22, 2004 at 07:29

Wednesday, Sep 22, 2004 at 07:29
Gday mate,

I wish I could just work out how to put the links on!

Thanks mate, I'll go and have a look now. Appreciate your help.

Cheers

Chris.
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FollowupID: 336983

Reply By: Glenno - Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 19:44

Tuesday, Sep 21, 2004 at 19:44
To save $$$ on my Hilux 3.0TD servicing, I buy Caltex Delo 400 in 20L drums and Toyota Oil filters. I do the 5,000 oil change at home with the aid of a greese gun.

For the 10K service I fill up 2 * 5L bottles of oil out of my 20L delo drum and throw in a filter. Saves a truck load of cash. I think Toyota wanted to charge $50 for 7L of oil - when I pay $89 for 20L of Delo.

Toyota want to charge $47 for their filter if they supply it when servicing. If I go to Toyota spare parts (next door) before I drop it in for a service, the filter is about $33. Which makes absolutly no sense at all. I could of course buy cheaper oil filters but its one less thing to worry about if i go genuine.

Same should apply for the Patrol.

I didnt use Delo 400, I would use the Shell Rimula X.

Cheers,

Glenn.
AnswerID: 77318

Follow Up By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Wednesday, Sep 22, 2004 at 07:32

Wednesday, Sep 22, 2004 at 07:32
Gday mate,

Yeah, I've considered doing the services myself, as I did about 10 million changes on the GQ, but I don't have much left on the car that's under warranty I'd assume now, so I'd really like to keep what's left!

They want $30 for 2 filters every change, which would equate to about $10 labour and if you'd seen where the filters are, I'd reckon it's worth $10!

If I supply my own oil as well, it's going to be pretty obvious what they are charging for labour.

Thanks mate,

Chris.
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FollowupID: 336984

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