Re wiring 79 Series LC

Submitted: Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 15:36
ThreadID: 16555 Views:2492 Replies:7 FollowUps:8
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Soi have a new 79 series RV model showing up next week, and i am getting dual batteries put in... whats the best way to rewire it. I want to have the radio/headlights/interior lights/ everything else EXCEPT the systems required to start the vehicle running off a seperate battery, so i can run them all night long and still get the bugger started in the morning...

Has anyone attempted this? Howd u do it? Any suggestion???
Thanks
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Reply By: Rossco100series - Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 15:41

Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 15:41
it would be a mongrel of a job. have a chat to a auto sparky.

Rossco
AnswerID: 77814

Follow Up By: GoThe80! - Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 16:00

Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 16:00
will that sort of thing void the warranty?
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Reply By: GoThe80! - Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 15:56

Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 15:56
will that sort of rewiring void the warranty?
AnswerID: 77815

Reply By: Tritondriva - Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 17:43

Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 17:43
Id just use a redarc isolater, hook all access to main battery, use main battery for everything, then utilise the "jump start facility" thats available with the redarc that joins both batteries for starting, so the auxillary battery will actually be used for starting.
Youd have to make sure the isolater you choose is big enough, and the wiring heavy enough, to handle this job.

The other option is just fit the isolater of your choice, then wire both batteries together with a heavy (heavy) relay/solenoid powered from the auxilary battery and with a switch on the dash for starting. (and run all access from main battery as per redarc idea)

If you run all access, including headlights and stuff from second battery, it will be a lot of wiring changes, and there could be times when accessories dont get full voltage from alternator, (when battery is isolated)

Im actualy considering doing this myself, so any vehicle access can be used as well as camping access without flattennig both batteries.
AnswerID: 77818

Follow Up By: GoThe80! - Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 17:53

Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 17:53
ok, good thinking... just a q for you though.
if i flatten one battery overnight, then when i hook the batteries up, will it not try to flatten the other too? ie will there be enough charge left to start the car or not? assuming that the battery is completely flat (worst case)
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Follow Up By: Tritondriva - Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 18:16

Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 18:16
If you flaten the main battery overnight, you need to switch on the two batteries togethor to start, (Id use a switch that you have to hold, that way you cant forget to switch it back) and then the alternator would procede to charge the flat battery, (the main) and when it reaches the predetermined voltage, the aux battery will start to charge, so the only problems that might arise, is if you dont drive very far in a day, the aux battery mightnt fully recharge, but this is a problem anyway, as fully flattened batteries do take a while to recharge, whether they are main or aux batterties.

I have no idea whaether my idea is good or not, but I think it would suit my use better than just a normal isolator instalation.
One thing you might need, (and I beleive its a good idea anyway) is a good charger at home, so when you get home, you can make sure both batteries are fully charged, and will be ready next time you utilise the full amount of charge they have.

Ive actually been thinking about running two N70 type batteries in parralel, with a third smaller battery hoked up like I said as a backup/start battery.

If any sparkies here know why I shouldnt do this Id like to hear.
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FollowupID: 337402

Follow Up By: GoThe80! - Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 18:18

Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 18:18
i think your idea is a good one! but what i really want to know is when i have a flat battery, and push the dashboard mounted switch to join them together for starting, will there be enough power to start the car? or will all the power go straight to the flat battery?
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Follow Up By: Tritondriva - Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 18:34

Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 18:34
As long as the battery is of sufficent size and in good condition, it will start the car, it wont try and eaqualise instantly.
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FollowupID: 337406

Follow Up By: GoThe80! - Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 18:35

Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 18:35
Thanks Tritondriva, I will try it out when the new rig gets here and let you know!
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Reply By: Richard & Leonie - Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 17:56

Saturday, Sep 25, 2004 at 17:56
Doesn't seem to be much of a problem to get info. Just go to Piranha or Rotronics web sites or any of the ARB or TJM or Opposite Lock web sites and you can get all the info you need. Let confusion reign. Also do a search of the forum you will find heaps to confuse you.
AnswerID: 77822

Reply By: Utemad - Sunday, Sep 26, 2004 at 09:41

Sunday, Sep 26, 2004 at 09:41
I have that setup in my Rodeo. I have a big N70(?) battery as my normal main battery and run everything to it. I also have a smaller (standard Rodeo starting battery) that is only connected when the key is in the 'on' position. I use a relay to cut the negative of the smaller 2nd battery.

I use two 30amp relays in parallel to do this. I also have a switch on the dash to isolate the 2nd battery so I can charge the main battery quicker when driving.

This way everything runs off the main battery when engine off without any rewiring and it uses both to start. Never given me any troubles.

I have always meant to wire a momentary switch so I can bring in the relay when the main battery is dead flat. Like if I have left my headlights on overnight or something. Although I have never needed to do this yet.
AnswerID: 77862

Reply By: Truckster (Vic) - Sunday, Sep 26, 2004 at 21:45

Sunday, Sep 26, 2004 at 21:45
Why would you want headlights running off anything but the main battery?
You expecting it to be that much of a POS to start??

Would rewiring a new car void the warranty - I would laugh if you thought otherwise.

YMMV
AnswerID: 77901

Follow Up By: GoThe80! - Monday, Sep 27, 2004 at 11:12

Monday, Sep 27, 2004 at 11:12
There is no requirement for the headlights to run off the main or aux battery in particular, just so long as i can run them/radio/whatever else i want to whenever they might be needed, without having to start the vehicle (ie setting up camp at night).
I dont think that the sort of setup that has been refferred to up here (modified dual battery setup with extra dash mounted relay switch) would be a warranty issue?
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FollowupID: 337508

Reply By: Member - Chris M (QLD) - Monday, Sep 27, 2004 at 10:14

Monday, Sep 27, 2004 at 10:14
Gday gothe80,

Roachie has a great idea regarding dual battery systems. I asked the same question some time ago. The Redarc system is the best, get a heavy duty anti vibration battery with 700+ CCA, and 80amp hour life, better if you get two of the same, and have the override switch to start off two. The redarc will stop the low battery from discharging the other so you should always have a fresh battery to start from.

Cheers

Chris.
AnswerID: 77932

Follow Up By: GoThe80! - Monday, Sep 27, 2004 at 11:14

Monday, Sep 27, 2004 at 11:14
Ok, this seems like the smartest setup to me! Thanks for your input! And thanks to all of you for your input!
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FollowupID: 337509

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