overheating troopy

G'day Kriso,
I'm assuming you have 2H diesel.
Check your bottom radiator hose, it can deteriorate and collapse
under load blocking coolant flow.
Then when you back off the throttle the hose returns to shape
and the temp returns to normal fairly quickly.

Hope this helps,
Moz

kriso21
Try setting up a couple of theromstatic fans on the front of the radiator. Do you have air-cond? If so these would be very helpful.
I have a 4.2 diesel Maverick, disconnected the fan and set up twin 16" thermo's that cut in at 165deg. I have found a few more horses and no overheating when towing the camp trailer or bigger loads. A big plus is while in the bush, driving around in low range and up-hill work the engine stays at a normal temp all the time even on 35+ days.
Vince

Kriso, overfueling under load will very quickly cause the temp to rise.

Do you have large clouds of smoke when you accelerate? First sign of overfueling and a good Dyno tune in need!

Goodluck, overheating can be very frustrating!!

Matt.

Gee Kriso . you have just pointed out exactly the problem I am having in my cruiser for the last couple of years . I have done all you have done and still there is a problem . I am about to remove the waterpump to check the impela . Also , how long since you did your radiator . I did mine in Jan , and car was fine till now . I did blow a headgasket not long ago , by dring the car way to hard up a hill . I am under the impretion that the heat could have caused flakes to come off the block , and inturn block my radiator again . I didnt mention that its now the second time that I did my radiator . Both times it had blocked up to 30 % . If the block isnt flushed properly , it will keep blocking the radiatir . I am looking for a aditive now to run in my cooling system to clean the block before sending out the radiator one more time . I also have been told to run genuine toyota cooland , I also have been told this is not the way to go . I am still resurching this for now . Lets keep in touch and see who comes up with a answer first

Kriso, I know you said that you had changed the fan but did you also change the viscous coupling as well?
Regards Andrew

kriso21,
If you have A/C check your condenser, it may be blocked up with bugs etc preventing good air flow through your radiator.

Is the engine a 2H and are you running a oil cooler. If so post a reply and I may be able to help you as I have been down this road before. The 2H can be very susceptable to overheating when Turboing.

Hi Kriso,
Lots of good advice so far. To what extent was your radiator 'overhauled'? As mentioned, chemical flushes are of limit usefulness. Removing the tanks and 'rodding out' is the way to go. But as also mentioned, it's no good having clean water passages if the core doesn't have good airflow through it. If the fins are badly crushed by many years a kamikazi bugs or if they are simply corroding away, then it's new core (or new radiator) time. Same goes for air-con condenser, oil cooler or anything esle that's out in front of the radiator - all must be clean and free-flowing for good air flow.

Overfueling to the extend that the coolant temp rises so quickly would likey be accompanied by serious black smoke. But, if you do suspect this, get it seen to quick smart, 'cause it'll be doing your turbo-charger not good at all...

we put an oil temp guage on ours and it never got past normal, even when the troopy was running hot, so an oil coller was not going to be of help.

Instead, we used a big oil cooler to cool the coolant coming out of the Turbo. The cooler is mounted inside the pass side wheel arch, and makes a huge difference.

I'll provide more details and pics if you like!

Still not perfect but I have come to live with the fact that the temp guage is very responsive, and that the area between cold and hot is called normal!!!.

Invest in a coolant level alarm for peace of mind!

I have a '96 troopy with normal 1HZ donk. Had the same problem and found that it was caused by a combination of radiator, thermostat and loss of fluid in the fan.

Replaced the radiator with a new one, had the fan refilled with fluid and replaced the thermostat. the temp gauge is not where it is supposed to be under any load and speed - on and off road. I'd already changed the hoses so didn't do it. I regularly tow a heavy off road trailer with no problems.

good luck

chris

Admittedly it cost around $700, but the unit runs real well now.

70 series troopies have always had probs with underbonnet airflow and temp due to the shape of the body and the way it deflects the air when travelling down the road.
Yours being a 91 model will have a 1HZ which are not as bad as the 2H in the earlier pre 90 models.
As has been previously stated check radiator first, then the thermo coupling on the fan, even new the couplings give probs, you can buy the silicone fluid from your toyota dealer to add to it to get it to lock up sooner.
anything you have in front of the radiator/grille will restrict airflow so remove if possible (driving lights, bugscreens etc), make sure all the rubber flaps/foam are in situ between the a/c condensor, rad & body as these ensure the air flows through not around the rad. Make sure the shroud on the back is fitted correctly again it prevents the fan sucking air from the sides.
By adding the turbo you are creating additional heat which has to be dissappated by a cooling system which is already at max for hot weather/climates so it has to be 110% to do the job.
Fitting thermo fans is not a solution and would create additional probs.
I always ran the toyota red fluid in the cooling sytem too. I've had several troopies and as long as everything is working ok it should be able to cope.
My money is on the thermo coupling being the culprit.
A cheats way of testing is to get a length of rubber hose (10 mm vaccuum hose from an auto parts place is ideal) a metre or so and wrap it tightly between the front of the water pump and the back of the thermo coupling, where the 4 nuts are that hold the fan to the pump.This will jam the fan on and you can go for a fang and see if it runs hot.
don't use reinforced hose as you may have to cut it off if it jams tightly, also the vac hose is soft enough to be cut by the fan if it comes off.

Kriso - email me at krobbo@optusnet.com.au and I'll give you R&D feedback of a similar, if not identical, mod that I have done to my Troopy over the past 2-3 years with (so far) 100% success.

Hi there

I don't know if this will help as you have a diesel and I have a petrol but if you read PostID: 16848 that I sent to Eric that might be an option for you. The hubby and I were having probs with our 80 series overheating on hills and under load and after a new rad and all the other things you can replace someone told us about a landcruiser prob. Not enough silicon oil in the viscous coupling fan. They come off the factory floor low on oil (guy from Toyota actually admitted the fact). I hope that is your prob cos it is pretty easy and inexpensive to fix.

Regards
Sasha

Hi Eveyrone,

We really appreciate the feedback you have all given us. but everything that has been said we have pretty much tried and sill nothing. We have been speaking to a friend of ours who is in the Landcruiser Club and he seems to thing that it has something to do with the aftermarket Turbo (Denco). We called Denco and they were no help what so ever. So tomorrow its off to the Turbo place in Wollongong (is this a good place?) and hofefully it is something very simple. Any one have any information on Aftermarket Turbos? Denco Turbos.

The worst thing is we were planning a trip for the next two weeks with new Camper Trailer we pick up today so we'll have to put that off to the Troopy is fixed.

thanks again and any more feed back will be greatly appreciated.