Coolant advise

Eric,
A test a few years ago, I think by Choice, but stand to be corrected, had genuine Holden coolant as the best for both cooling and corrosion. I don't have a 'cruiser so am only passing on info. Most other pre-mixed stuff was C*R*A*P
rolande

I used to deliver tanker loads of coolant from ICI Botany to a place in Hoxton Park that bottled it.

They only 1 tank in their yard, yet managed to fill about 10 brands - ALL bottled from the one tank.

There were some larger brands amongst it, so to say they are ALL different is poop.

I used Nulon stuff.

As for the blocked rad, after each hard weekends play in mud, you should remove it and clean it, its only an hours work..

Hi Eric,

I can't help with the coolant prob but the overheating prob sounds like what the hubby and I were experiencing with our 80 series. After much frustration a kind person told us about a common prob with cruisers. The viscous coupling fan ( I think that is what its called) doesn't have enough silicon oil in it. We ended up having to go to Toyota and buy 3 tiny tubes of this silicon oil (around $10-$11 each tube) and then remove the fan and open up the unit and drain out the existing oil and then put in at least 2 tubes of the silicon oil and then put it all back together again. Apparently it is a matter of five or six screws or bolts to separate the two halves of the unit to drain and refill it. After doing this we have been to Kalbarri twice and pemberton once with no probs at all and we towed a trailer the last time we went to Kalbarri and we had 3 adults and 3 kids in the cruiser. So sorry I couldn't help with the coolant prob but I shall be watching to see what you find out cos we have been told that the Tectaloy that we currently use is very very bad for our motor so we are trying to figure out just what we should be using instead.

Regards Sasha

I have a nephew, who as part of his job when working in Adelaide some years ago, had to go to a particular company that produced coolant re follow up service on equipment that his employer had previously supplied.

Guess what?

Just like 'truckster' described - only one type of coolant coming out the end of their production process, but going into empty containers sporting various brand labelling.

Also, my son in law was recently in an identical situation in Melbourne, however it was a company that produces adhesives.

Guess what?

That 'special' cartridge of conatct glue that you recently purchased for the wall, floor or whatever at a price depending on 'brand and/or alleged attribute' comes out of the same machine into whatever brand label that the current order is for.

Just makes you wonder why you try some times because we all know that it is not:

Who dares - wins

in reality its

Who tries - dies.

Have a good one truckster.

Ken Robinson

Eric, is your coolant being pushed out to the radiator overflow tank? If so, when the engine is cold. Does it recover the extra coolant pushed into the radiator overflow tank?
If it's not recovering properly then there is some kind of air leak in the system.
If everything is fine in that department then I agree with your idea of using a radiator flush.
I build custom alloy radiators part time for race cars and I've picked up quite a bit of info from various sources. I'll post here the correct procedure for flushing your cooling system.
One thing to be very careful of in the cooling system (NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER
NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER) mix different brands of coolants. If you don't believe me check out are.com.au and have a look at the "horror pics" in the technical section.
I've used Tectalloy "Muckout" cleaner with very good results but I also use it in conjunction with a reverse power flush from a radiator specialist.
Regards Andrew.
ps: If you're interested in the correct procedure for stray current testing I can post that as well.

Cooling System Flushing Procedure.

Because coolant/inhibitors from different manufactures have different chemical compounds, which may adversely react if mixed, it is important that you DO NOT create a chemical cocktail within your cooling system by mixing different brands of coolant/inhibitor. Even though the coolant has been drained from the system, the inhibitors remain affixed to the cooling system components and must be chemically removed, using a quality alkaline flush.

Procedure:
1: Ensure the cooling system is sound and free from leaks and check all components for wear and condition. If need, replace worn components.
2: Choose a quality alkaline cooling system flush (500mL. Per 12 Litres). Observe the instructions on the container.
3: Replace the radiator cap and run the engine at operating temperature for 15 minutes in 4 cylinder vehicles and 30 minutes in 6 or 8 cylinder vehicles. (Ensure the vehicle heater is turned on).
4: Drain and rinse the cooling system including the overflow bottle and heater core. At this point a power flushing machine may be used if this equipment is available.

And/or:
4a). Rinse the system with clean water until you are convinced that the only fluid remaining in the system is clean water- RINSE- RINSE- RINSE (this may need to be refilled and drained a number of times).
5: Refill the cooling system using clean water (demineralised or distilled water), to perform a stray current check.
6: Do not add coolant at this time until a complete stray current check has been performed (refer to stray current procedure). The presence of stray current will deteriorate the cooling fluid quality immediately.
Always ensure you select a coolant/inhibitor that meets the vehicle manufacturers recommendation or one that meets AS 2108-97 Type A or Type B whichever is recommended as being in support of the vehicles manufacturers recommended coolant performance standard.
7: Ensure the correct rates of coolant/inhibitor is used, as overdosing or underdosing will have a direct affect on the performance of the cooling system and the life of the components including the radiator.
8: Only after the vehicle has been cleared of the possibility of stray current (electrolysis). Rebuild the cooling fluids by first adding the selected product then topping up with clean water (demineralised or distilled water). NOTE: NEVER MIX TWO BRANDS OF COOLANT!
9: Mix a portion of the coolant for the owner to use for topping up coolant level.

Dispose of Waste Fluid Correctly.

NOTE !
Radiator manufacturers warranty does not cover internal or external corrosion.

Hi Eric,

I agree with all thats been posted. Coolant leakage via the overflow tank means that the radiator is not circulating enough water to keep cool or the fan is not working properly. on my 80 series the temp never goes over the 1/2 way mark even when towing my full sized van on a hot day at 100kph. the coolant i have always used is CASTROL in the small tins. never had a problem with useing it in a variety of different cars and trucks. NEVER mix radiator additives hope this helps you

Regards

Bob

Mate of mine has just been through a similar scenario that after all of our investigations and fixes over the course of a long, long weekend turned out to be a cracked head. Hopefully this is not the problem with yours Eric but keep it in mind.

totally agree on the silicon in the thermo coupling, even new ones don't have enough and it has been going on since Toyota started fitting them back in the early 80's. Several times I've seen two identical Tojo's one ok and one not, swap the fans and the prob went with one fan, put additional silicone in and no more probs.
The fella with the prob fitted a new coupling with no effect, more silicone and end of prob.

Eric having a Surf I also have "free" with it the added bonus of overheating issues! LOL
I changed to Genuine Tojo coolant on advise from other surf owners, I also had the radiator recored and a new top tank put on as well as more silicon in the hub. Has been pretty good considering it's an auto turbo diesel with the auto gearbox oil cooler in the bottom of the somewhat small radiator and I live in WA where it's get's as hot as hell.
Apparrently the tojo stuff has good anti cavitation properties to help prevent premeture wear on the head (especially in diesels).
I would also be inspecting the top and bottom ratiator tanks as mine looked fine but it has some pin hole leakes that could only be seen upon a very close insepction. You'll generally see little white, red or green specs that just look like normal dirt at first glance. When the cooling system starts to work real hard, these little leaks allows your system to loose pressure making the coolant work much less effeciantly and increasing the temp of the coolant.
So in short if it's loosing pressure through these little holes just when it needs everything it's got you'll find the temp guage will start climbing and really fast too.
Mine was fine, the temp guage never moved until you towed a trailer up a long hill or did some really hard beach work on a 40c day then out of the blue it would go from running temp to HOLY SHT in a matter of 30 seconds.

Gday Eric
Ive used Valvoline green anti freeze/boil coolant for a long time, with no problems other than the leaks it finds :-(
I always make sure the system is flushed, i dont know about the alkalai special cleaner...i would put a few spoons of Bicarb in tap water and try that first. I do however use demineralised water in my motors (because i have a good suppler)
I have heard the yanks complain about the Toyota Red coolant clogging their systems up many times on lcool, never used it myself.
Just this week i put a secondhand (clogged) rad in my Datto...when running, the symptoms were the temp slowly increased without going down at all until i put the heater on...or stopped the motor. If this is what your cruiser is doing, then it may be the rad. There is also a thermistat, water pump, and fan to consider....to check the fan, put some cardboard infront of the air cond condensor and wait till the fan cuts in at about half a gauge. If it doesnt you need fluid in it.
I would change the thermistat either way just to be sure..and thats another thing...check the temp of the water against what the gauge is telling you too. (but be sure not to burn yourself...)
Andrew