Does your Patrol run "warm".

Submitted: Saturday, Oct 09, 2004 at 08:54
ThreadID: 16908 Views:6107 Replies:5 FollowUps:4
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Do you have a Patrol which tends to run warm when pushed very hard? I did- it was never a major problem, rather something I had to occasionally keep an eye on, (TD 42 with aftermarket turbo). I had the turbo reworked ("Power Up") which took the boost up to 12" and made a huge difference in power, but was a bit concerned about engine temp on a hot day....

Yet now- it's bloody fantastic- I hauled a 2.5 tonne van up Cunnunghams Gap the other day- 30 degrees plus, aircon working very hard, loaded car and van to the gunnels- and temp rose from normal position below 1/2 to just on half -no more. Oil temp got to only about 98 degrees celsius. (I have VDO gauges oil temp, oil pressure, turbo boost) Brilliant!

What have I done? A number of things which all compliment each other, but which I felt neccessary as I knew I'm working the engine hard, and didn't want to risk overheating it.

1. Viscous fan is now working as it should, with new silicone and a slightly modified (bent) bi-metallic spring. It cuts in when it should- this fan is probably the biggest cause of people's overheat problems.
2.New HIGH FLOW thermostat. (old one was standard)
3.Radiator has been flushed and refilled with only about 30% glycol (did you know the higher percentage glycol you use the hotter it'll all run) AND Redline's "Water Wetter"- thought I'd give it a go despite the expense($27) and I'm pretty impressed- although I can't prove anything as I did a few things at once.
4.Bypass oil filter which feeds through a transmission style oil cooler thus feeding cool oil back to the sump (which I've had for some time- it probably adds a bit over a litre to total sump capacity)
5.I used a Commodore heater valve to allow water thru the heater pipes without going thru the main heater core- this water then goes thru another heater core behind the bull-bar- total cost for the above mod about $60 (new commodore heater valve $27, plus heater hose, and a heater core from the wreckers.

Radiator is ORIGINAL (old like me) , with quite a bit of external corrosion on the lower fins (many at the bottom are gone completely). Wow- what'll it be like when I am eventually forced to recore it?
I don't know what I'd have to do to overheat it now- I reckon it's bullet proof and I'm very happy.
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Reply By: Flash - Saturday, Oct 09, 2004 at 09:27

Saturday, Oct 09, 2004 at 09:27
Sounds great!
Might try a few of these on mine as it can run warmish when pushed hard in hot weather! (It's also a TD42 after market turbo)

Many of these ideas would work just as well on other vehicles- I have a mate with a Landcruiser which he's always having to watch on hills- he tows a big boat.
AnswerID: 79462

Reply By: Member - Miles - Saturday, Oct 09, 2004 at 12:02

Saturday, Oct 09, 2004 at 12:02
David N , did you upgrade your original turbo or install on a non turbo motor? Looking at power up on mine - 2004 td4.2 - and wondering if a complete new turbo would give greater results.
AnswerID: 79474

Follow Up By: Flash - Saturday, Oct 09, 2004 at 12:36

Saturday, Oct 09, 2004 at 12:36
Mine was originally a non turbo, which was modded by Brisbane turbos at Wooloongabba.

However I have heard of very good results with people doing the upgrade on newer turbo models- they machine out the housing and add a new larger turbine wheel- combined with new exhaust the results are outstanding- huge increase in torque/hp vs original factory turbo.
You could talk to John at Wooloongabba if you live in SE Qld. Also I think MTQ in Toowoomba from memory.
cheers
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FollowupID: 338881

Reply By: Ian from Thermoguard Instruments - Saturday, Oct 09, 2004 at 17:51

Saturday, Oct 09, 2004 at 17:51
Hi David N.

Your cooling modifications sound well thought-out and executed but I think you have one glaring omission from your instrumentation - an Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) gauge or pyrometer. And not just because I sell them - please go and buy a VDO one to match your existing gauges if you prefer but I strongly recommend you get one.

Your vehicle is the absolute classic case for needing an EGT gauge. Aftermarket turbo at relatively high boost without an intercooler and towing a heavy caravan up steep grades - I shudder to think what the EGT was on the way up Cunningham's Gap - probably well over 700 C if you were using full throttle for any length of time.

You're of course welcome to look at the info on my site but please also have a look at this article from Gale Banks Engineering in the USA: Why EGT is important (I have no relationship with them, by the way - they just have excellent diesel info on their site)
Happy Travels
AnswerID: 79504

Follow Up By: Flash - Sunday, Oct 10, 2004 at 07:41

Sunday, Oct 10, 2004 at 07:41
Thanks, I'll read it all.
However, I have read widely on this and the EGT was a subject of discussion with the turbo setup. I am aware of the problems which can come from this and drive accordingly.
Thanks again, Cheers
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FollowupID: 338960

Reply By: Greg (rag) - Monday, Oct 11, 2004 at 08:32

Monday, Oct 11, 2004 at 08:32
Hi David N
This Hi Flow thermostat, can I have some details on that please.

What brand , how much ??

Thanks
AnswerID: 79662

Follow Up By: Flash - Friday, Oct 15, 2004 at 21:25

Friday, Oct 15, 2004 at 21:25
Go to supercheap etc. and look in their parts book on thermostats, and you'll see two listed (they don't stock them. )
Normal and Hi flow.
I bought mine from Coventry Auto parts for.... I think about $30 but I forget exactly.
"Tridon" TT2028-170
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FollowupID: 339715

Reply By: Mark- Monday, Oct 11, 2004 at 21:57

Monday, Oct 11, 2004 at 21:57
My TD42 tends to run hot when working hard especially when running in soft sand. Its not turboed. I think the viscous fan clutch is the main cause of my running hot. I'll tell you why. Last week on Fraser after driving for about 30km in soft sand on a hot day, it got up to a bit over 3/4 then I heard a sound I'd never heard, sort of a high pitched whirring noise . I was a bit concerned because everything was very hot and we were in a pretty remote spot.

As soon as the noise started, the temp gauge started to drop quickly, down to about half. The noise then stopped. This happened a second time. It occured to me that the noise was the fan cutting in and doing its job, only its cutting in too late, should be coming on at about 1/2 on the gauge, not when the temps over 3/4. So I probably need a new viscous fan clutch.

I'm not sure about the high flow thermostat, have heard that removing the thermost completely can cause overheating due to the coolant passing through the radiator too quickly and not having time to cool? Not being critical, just something to think about.
AnswerID: 79818

Follow Up By: Flash - Friday, Oct 15, 2004 at 21:27

Friday, Oct 15, 2004 at 21:27
Do Not remove the thermostat.

It definately sounds like your viscous fan is not working. You can replace it (expensive) or refill the silicone and perhaps adjust the bi-metallic spring.
By doing both, mine now works as it should.
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FollowupID: 339716

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