2002 GU II Turbo Ute overheating

done all of this, and clean the radiator out on a weekly basis (due to the extreme conditions we work in). I have heard that the strength of the coolant can have some effect too. I am still running the recomended dosage at this stage.

So what other things have the nissan dealer done, what else have you done?

Have you contacted Customer Support at Nissan Aussie in Dandenong Vic?

The nissan dealer here just keeps saying that it is caused by the weight and basicaly dosent want to know or do anymore (vehicle is still under warranty), and is becoming very hostile because I keep taking the vehicle back to them to fix the overheating problem.
As it is a government vehicle, we cant do anything to it ourselves, or take it to another mechanic (because it is a warranty issue). The only other thing that I can think of is maybe to change the radiator to a bigger one, but then this may void the warranty too. I am running out of ideas, apart from replacing the vehicle with a Toyota when the time comes.

Actually you can take it to other licensed dealers and still have warranty.
I would take it elsewhere anyway and get them to check it out.

I presume its a striker unit with a slip on tank about 500-1000ltrs? Whats it like with 1/2 tank of water? Overheat etc?

What actual weight is it full of water and gear?

The Nissan dealer has ALL the dealerships (for all the major vehicles)!!! I have to go back up to Darwin in about March 05 so may have to wait until then to get someone else to look into the problem.
Yes it only carries a fixed firefighting unit with about 600ltrs water + firefighting equipment + fridge + camping gear.
The vehicle gets hot even when empty of water.
The weight is just under 4t with full gear and water.

So its getting hot when Empty??

So weight of tank would be aroudn 100kg, 600ltrs water is around 600kg, hoses, few lengths of 25 and 38, nozzles, Extinguishers etc campin gear, shovels etc, would be around 500kg? So all up its got about 1200kg onboard?

its not exactly a killer weight.

What about airflow to the radiator? Lights and crap on the bar infront of the grill?

Well, there is a set of ralley 4000, and a winch below that but should still be getting enough airflow, the strange thing is that it only started in mid August. Until then things were fine, so am woundering if it may be a leaking injector??

Remove the spotties and try again.

But if the issue has only began since August, then it was fine before that WITH all the gear onboard? Then the dealer cant wash his hands of it.

Contact Nissan Australia.. Im sure they would be keen to help out, if not they deserve what they get...

YMMV

Dont suppose you have an email address for Nissan Aust? I cant find one on the net.

u cant be serious just put nissan into google

Thanks Anthony, i have noticed latley that the clutch has been slipping in the sandy areas, so will get this looked at.

Thanks Roachie, looks like I am going to have to put in a H/D radiator for now and run it till it is due for replacment mid 05.

Thanks for the advice.

Shane

Shane,
If you do put the bigger radiator in, make sure you keep the old one safe and sound. When you go to sell the truck in a year or 2, swap them over and advertise the PWR jobbie on here....should get half your money back.

Also I'd bypass the dealer for now and go direct to Nissan Aust.

G'day Flash,
My old GQ 4.2 with Safari turbo, used to roar when the fan cut in. I bought my GU brand new and have NEVER heard the fan cut in. I changed the fan hub ($320- to Mr Nissan; thank you) and the new one is also as quiet as a church mouse. I pulled the old one apart and was intending to fill it up with extra fluid, but found that the skinny rubber "O" ring seal swelled up once it came into contact with the atmosphere and was about 1" too long to fit back in the groove it came out of. New rubber "O" rings are apparently not available; they are made of some sort of special rubber compound. Sounds like bullshyt to me, but who am i to argue.
The other thought I had was to whack a couple of tech screws through the fan hub so it's locked up full time, but have been advised this adversely affect fuel economy and that the fan blades will eventually fracture as they are not designed to be under load full time.
I'd be interested to know whether ANY GU owners have EVER heard their fan cut in and roar???

Struth, I'm losing it bigtime......LOLOL

I meant to also ask you Flash, about this idea of watering down the coolant? I'm intrigued mate. I've been very careful to use Tectalloy 90+ coolant, straight out of the container....it says it is NOT to be diluted.

I've been led to believe that water will destroy these modern engines and that ONLY coolant (and NEVER mixed with other brands etc) should be used.

What have you based your claims on? Don't get me wrong; I'm not challenging your findings, just very curious and somewhat hopeful that you may have solved a problem that has plagued a lot of us.

G'day Roachie.
It's a common misconception that glycol helps cooling. It actually makes it worse due to less calories to raise the temp of Glycol than water.
Look at thisRedline

and thisRedline PDF

Hope those work if not cut and paste.
Yes though, you are right about the corrosion- you DO need some kind of very good inhibitor, but "Water Wetter" has that.
I run 30% Glycol...for limited antifreeze protection, and "Water wetter" and the results are outstanding.
Your engine WILL RUN COOLER on water than a mix- but obviously you need a good inhibitor too.
Glycol will raise the boiling point slightly, but tales LESS calories to do so.
Hope this helps, cheers.

Darn -the links did not work, so cut and paste these... so much for my computing skills...
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp?productID=53

and
http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/17.pdf

Also I forgot to say,
If you are dubious about whether your fan is working, wait till your donk is HOT, then pull over, raise the bonnet and rev it. It is then very obvious if the fan is "idling" or working hard.

I added new fluid to mine, and modified the bi metallic spring to get it to cut in sooner. I have no idea what I'd have to do to get it to seriously overheat now, as the temp barely budges when I'm flat out, towing a load up a steep hill on a hot day WITH the aircon working hard, 12 inches of boost.... And my radiator is original and quite corroded externally on fins near the bottom.
(I do have a good aftermarket oil cooler and bypass filters which raises oil capacity by probably 1.5 to 2 litres)
Cheers

Hey Flash,

Thanks very much for all that info. I've just been checking out Redline's website. A sceptic might say it was more "snake-oil". I must admit I'm still a bit dubious about dropping my Techtalloy 90+ and running water with "water-wetter". Here in SA we don't have to worry too much about freezing for about 8 months of the year.

I see Redline has an outlet at Noble Park (WA???) so I might give them a call about getting some "water wetter".

Cya mate

Coventry auto parts (Australia wide???) have all the Redline stuff. I'm sure there would be plenty of others too.
I would probably recommend some concentrated Glycol (maybe 20-30%)as it then gives you at least limited antifreeze protection- you know, a few degrees below zero on that unexpected cold snap. They also recommend some to avoid freezing the heater core in some vehicles because of the aircon.
I think mine's close to 30% Glycol plus rainwater, plus WaterWetter, which should cover me for any temps I'm likely to see in Qld and NSW normally, all year and just about anywhere if I'm not too far from the coast.
If I go up to snow country in Winter I'll have to add more Glycol.(just a matter of dropping a few litres of the mix and adding afew litres of Glycol.)
Cheers

I have a GU111 4.2 TDI which has as std the larger radiator same as in the 4.8 petrol ,it hangs down quite a bit lower than the GU 11 and has more exposer area
Maurie