Computer safety when jump starting
Submitted: Thursday, Dec 23, 2004 at 14:25
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Member - Camper (SA)
This started as daydreaming about what I needed to isolate if welding to a vehicle with a computer management system. I called the RAA tech branch and the answer was revealing to say the least!
If welding anything to a vehicle remove all computers and put them on
the bench away from any possibilities of voltage spikes. If this is not done the spike may
well cook the computer but (wait for it) the computer may not die till later, in some cases months later.
Crash repairers and exhaust fitters don't necessarily know this and blithely mig bits back together and mig exhaust bits on without realising they may be causing expensive problems down the track. When we are crossing the
Tanami Desert and the Pooter dies at the worst. (Too horrible to contemplate)
I recall that the computer on a car previously owned by SWAMBO died mysteriously some considerable time after crash repairs. Now maybe we know why.
Now to the guts of my post.
I asked the tech about jump starting. This is fine apparently if from an isolated donor battery as there will be no spikes. But if the donor car has its engine running there is risk of a spike. So if you switch off the motor in the donor car there will be no spike from it to the recipient car. But what about when the recipient car starts (assuming the donor car has a pooter running things) it can presumably send a spike back the other way and damage the computer in the donor car?
Reckon in future I will be less enthusiastic about leaping in to jump-start hapless roadside victims. But if I do feel the good samaritan urge I will be sure to stop my motor and disconnect the battery completely before doing the business.
Jumper leads with so-called spike protection do not live up to their names apparently.
All in the interests of saving unecessary expenditure,
Cheers
Camper
Reply By: Member -Dodger - Thursday, Dec 23, 2004 at 14:49
Thursday, Dec 23, 2004 at 14:49
Hi Camper,
I have a set of jump leads that have an anti zap device built into the leads and this is supposed to protect pooters.
The recommended way to jump start is to connect the pos of both vehicles to the pos terminal. Then connect the neg of the lead to the neg terminal of the slave battery then finally and most importantly the last negative end to a ground point on the vehicle to be started, this is usually the lifting point on the engine or some such exposed metal part of this vehicle. But NOT to the neg term on the battery.
When welding on avehicle it is wise to disconnect the battery at both terminals and also the main terminal on the alternator.I do not know about the pooters on the vehicle but I daresay that pulling the plugs on them would not hurt.
Maybe someone else has more info for welding.
AnswerID:
90056
Follow Up By: Utemad - Thursday, Dec 23, 2004 at 23:57
Thursday, Dec 23, 2004 at 23:57
I'm pretty sure the vehicle with the flat battery is supposed to have the -ve jumper lead connected away from the battery so as not to ignite the gases if it sparks when connecting. Nothing to do with the computer.
FollowupID:
348907
Reply By: muzzimbidgie - Thursday, Dec 23, 2004 at 15:00
Thursday, Dec 23, 2004 at 15:00
Hi camper !
I have fitted new battery terminals to both batteries in da patrol, those big suckers with wing nuts on em.
2 reasons, firstly cos I met a bloke who's HJ60 went up in flames cos he got a short somewhere under the dash which started a fire !!!
He could'nt get under there with a fire extuingisher to put it out and while he was fumbling around in his tool box for a spanner or something to undo the battery terminals, his car was burning. Rare I know, but it DID happen
Secondly, so that if I need to jumpstart someone, I can undo them easily without needing a tool box, which I don't always carry anyway. I can't jump start any one from my deep cycle so it has to be the main battery.
Cheers
Muzz
AnswerID:
90058
Follow Up By: Rick Blaine - Thursday, Dec 23, 2004 at 15:07
Thursday, Dec 23, 2004 at 15:07
My 1948 Wolsley had a nasty under bonnet fire cause by the original rubberised cotton insulation had past its use by date....I was devastated but it only took me 2 days to completely rewire it with new PVC insulated wire...Just wondering if I should try a practise rewire of the T/D Jack......
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: Member - Ross P (NSW) - Thursday, Dec 23, 2004 at 15:21
Thursday, Dec 23, 2004 at 15:21
Mate has a ralley card and they are required to have two (2) manually operated battery isolating switches. One that can be operated from inside the car and one from outside the car.
FollowupID:
348814
Reply By: Member - David 0- Friday, Dec 24, 2004 at 21:59
Friday, Dec 24, 2004 at 21:59
Advice I have is that it is very unlikely to destroy computers but my mechanic brother in law says....
1. have both cars turned off
2. connect jumper leads
3. turn on lights of donor car
4. run donor car for 10 to 15 minutes minimum
5. start receiving car.
That is the advice I have. I have done it without damage several times.
AnswerID:
90264