Tyreplier VS B.Breaker - nows your chance

Bonz

Best thing you can do is give them a practice run. I kept putting it off because I was worried it would be too hard and I would be disheartened, but follow the instructions (general tyre removal that is) and it should only take a half hour the first time (not inlcluding removing and putting on the wheel) After a couple of goes will only take 10 mins or so plus time to patch the tyre.

Better that before you know
Than changing one for the first time on the go

I just made up a poem. Maybe there are more to come.

D-Jack

They are that good, but as posted, give em a try at home before setting off. The trick to remember is that they shouldn't take the place of a professional tyre place. They are for when you need to be self sufficient. Just knowing that you can repair your own tyres if necessary can lead to peace of mind and self satisfaction.

Well I have changed tyres before on others cars with others tyrepliers, never on my own, never needed to. Have also changed the old 7.50-16's on a Landy broke the bead by driving over the tyre till it popped, once or thrice, and I were 16 then , hmm that'd be 29 years ago. I wont have any trouble doing it, I don't think, come to think of it I broke the bead on the Patrols RH front tyre, driving up a track in the Otways. Don't want to have to do it that way again........in the Desert

So I would have to say:

Before I go, I'd have to to know,
How to change the tyres.
To have the need, to break a bead,
I'll love my Tyrepliers

Bonz 2005

Very funny Footloose :o)

Now here's a tale of Billy Hayes
from out near Alice Springs
A wild young ringer in his days
He done some crazy things

He jumped bulls over fences,
raced a colt up Ayers Rock
Said his legs weren't built for walking,
They were made for riding stock

and so on.... don't get me started or we could be here all night hehehehe

Cheers Poppy

I have never used the tyrepliers, did once manage to get the tyre off the split rims with just two tyre levers and a lot of sweat :-).
However, getting older I thought there must be an easier way and decided to give one of these gadgets a try. The salesman convinced me that the beadbreaker is the better deal and, after having a good look at it, I bought it.

I got an old second hand split rim wheel from the wreckers, wanted to use the rim as a spare after refurbishing it. It had an old Chinese tyre on it, should be the right challenge for my new toy.

Well, I was not impressed, the instructions took several readings to get the meaning of them. Now I know why the salesman was pushing to sell me the video and the whole kit, but I already had the tyre levers and puncture kit and hardly would take a video player with me out bush.

So, I struggled with this bead breaker device, the Chinese beads seem to defeat it or perhaps something else was wrong. Anyway, the tool depressed the tyre wall allright but it would not slide under the rim as the instructions promised. It appears the narrow flat part that pushes on the tyre wall is a tad too narrow and just digs in.

Anyway, I hacksawed this 'slide' off and welded one 3 times as wide in its place. Surprise! the tool worked now as expected, sliding nicely under the rim and breaking the bead easily. It took about three placings on each side to get the Chinese rubber unstuck, it was *really* well sealed.

I tried the bead breaker on my spare wheel later on and its bead broke much more easily, I think this depends how much time had passed since it had been taken last off the rim shoulder.

I did contact the BB guy about my findings with the tool, he said I should have bought the video! If I can't work something out from written instructions they are a bit lacking, IMO.
He also mentioned that they make a 'heavy duty' model that has the wider sliding part. Why not fit it on all the models? Apparently I'm the only person ever having problems with the standard model.

I can only suggest that anybody with this tool gets a good grip of it before venturing out beyond the black stump, it could save precious minutes of drinkies time with a slick tyre repair :-)

Would I buy the tyre lever next time? dunno, I hope the BB sees me out.

Klaus

Hi Klaus,

Fair comment on the written instructions. They produce a DVD as well - now DVD players ARE going bush.

The little yellow tent at 4WD and Caravan and Camping shows, often near the ARB stand, is a good place to wander past and see the guy from R&R doing it over and over. He's really helpful too if you have any queries.

I've not seen a similar display for the tyrepliers.

The trick with tough ones seems to be to depress the bead each 45 degrees, and slosh soapy solution into each place you depress the bead.

You're also supposed to grease up the threaded spindle and washer prior to use, but I think that's pretty well covered in the written instructions.

Like you, I hope I don't have to use them too many times in the dusty bits of the country. I did okay and learnt a lot in my practice run in my garage, but it's not the sort of things I'd want to have to get good at.

Tim

Ha Tim, that made me laugh, I hope you see the humour in your post.

Tyrepliers dont NEED a little yellow display tent!! or a manual, or a DVD!!

A simple explanation is ALL you need to start you practicing rippin tyres off!

I agree totally with 'to each their own', there is just no need to bag the other guy for buying something different.

Matt.

Darryl

Sorry mate can't confirm that. I would imagine there would be no problems unless the tyre had been on the rim for many years and the bead had never been broken. Mine has been on the Jacks steelie for 3 years without a break and no problem - no way the force I used would have damaged an alloy. However, tyres have been down to low pressures a lot (15 mostly on sand, had them down to 8 once before when really stuck in middle of nowhere (Yalata Beach - not peak season!) This may have loosened the beads. As someone said, if you get a flattie then driving sensible on it for a few metres will probably break or loosen the bead anyway.

Maybe when you have your tyres rotated/balanced every 10000 or so, get the tyre place to break the bead and refit. Will take them almost no extra time at all and bead will break with tyrepliers no problems and no damage to alloy I 'm sure.

D-Jack

Sandman,

I only gave this threat the flavour you're referring to because of my previous post when I asked for help getting a tyre off the rim (once bread was broken), and just mentioned that I had used tyrepliers to break the bead.

The result was an influx of responses saying things like "I don't know why you would waste your time with tyrepliers" and "You should have got the breadbreaker, they work much better" I got a little weed off and so this thread is dedicated to all those who posted a response in that flavour.

In essence, I completely agree with you. I'm not trying to justify my purchase, just thank those people who kindly replied to my previous thread in such a manner!!

D-Jack

Nifty idea that tool. But at the end of the day it all depends on how long the tyre has been on the rim. I had a tyre that had been on its split rim for approx 4 years and had never been off. Well when I finally got a puncture in one I tried the highlift jack under the bulbar to no avail (only lifted the cruiser sky high, drove over it, did everthing). Went to the local tyre place when I got back to ask if they could use their big hydraulic machine to break the bead. "Yep no worries mate". Well 20minutes and a hell of a lot of cursing and swearing latter he finally got it off, using every tool and machine in the shop. It had simply rusted onto the rim.

So all I can say is when ever a tyre comes off the rim ensure that:
1. the rim is not rusting (paint if necessary) and
2 ensure that plenty of rubber grease is applied to the bead to prevent further rusting and binding of the rubber to the rim.

Works for me....

Cheers,
Hughesy

Mr Bitchi

Yel, looks like a good idea. But you can't tell me that it is much less effort required than to take off the tow hitch, insert the square tubing, get out the jack from the hideaway (may include unloading the rear cargo), wind up the jack, break the bead, wind down the bead, then wind it up again to break another section if neccessary, then wind it down, then turn over the wheel and repeat the process on the other side, then wind down the jack,, put it away, put away the rear cargo, take out the tool from the tow hitch and re-insert the original. That's assuming your jack isn't under the car already holding it up to get the tyre on and off! Compare that to taking the tyreplier out from its canvas case, breaking both beads and putting it back in its canvas cover. It's a good home made tool you've shown us but to say it requires less effort I can't really agree with!!

D-Jack

D-Jack,
1. Personally I just position the jack under the standard Pajero tow hitch (as stated) I don't remove the hitch.
2. Take the Tyrepliers out of their canvas case, after removing it from it's hideaway (may include unloading the rear cargo) break the bead, then reposition the tool to break another section (always necessary), then work your way around the tyre, gradually working the bead off the safety rim, (cursing in 40 degree heat, tyrepliers slip and cut the sidewall :--(( ) then turn over the wheel and repeat the process on the other side. :--p

I have a set of tyrepliers, just wish I'd found the other method before I wasted my money.

Less effort? Yes, much less. The hydraulic jack is doing all the work.
Try it one day and you'll see.

Bundyman,
In that situation neither Tyrepliers nor Beadbreaker would have helped, although I'd lay odds you would have cut the sidewall attempting to get it off with Tyrepliers.

If you're planning a trip, take your car into your local tyre dealer before you go and get him to re-seat all your tyres on their rims before you go. Get a balance and alignment at the same time. That way, if you have to get a tyre off the rim you'll know it's not stuck on with years of rust.

Cheers, John.

Moose

Point taken about the status of the rim - I agree, mine was pretty easy, but I don't intent on carrying any really old, rusty rims at all.

The Puncture, as I mentioned, was a small hole caused by a small screw. The screw was still in the tyre, so was only leaking slowly (2psi per week).

I only fitted a small round rubber patch to the hole, and it seems to have done the job perfectly. I spoke to a bloke at Bridgestone today, he said they can only legally repair a hole that is 6mm or less at its longest diameter, because of the damage that could have been done to the steel which could also rust and be compromised later resulting in a blowout. He also said that for a small puncture like a nail or screw hole, a small flat patch should be fine, and given that I shouldn't have the tyres for much longer he said it would be OK. I must say though, when I get my new set of whatever they are, any punctures big or small will go to the tyre place to get professionally repaired.

D-Jackl

Good point Vudoguru (what the hell does that mean???!!!)

I guess it is just good to know that if you or a member of your party was unlucky enough to get a couple of punctures or more, you can possibly make repairs enough to get you to the next town.

I personally carry 1 spare (on the rear door of the Jack) and a carcass on the roof (because I am worried that the rating of the Jack's roof rack points wont hold - I think they have been downgraded to 25kg each after were at 50kgs (probably because of a mishap by someone with 200kg on the roof)

Plus the empty carcass is easier to put up and down than a full weight steelie.

I wouldn't repair a screw puncure in the bush unless I absolutely had to. It was only losing about 2psi per week but I was more interested in testing the tyrepliers and sussing out the repair techniques.

Point taken though, but remember you could always do 3 tyres on one trip and at least you have a chance with a repair kit.

D-Jack

Thanks for your reply D-Jack. Vuduguru... vague reference to my company name and profession... corporate computer network engineer. Largely I agree with the points stated. Admittedly I usually carry only one spare... running Coopers now, no flats in 40k. Replaced the standard issue GrandTreks.. 3 holes in 30k, so a fair degree of confidence in the rubber. Planning a desert trip later this year and I might encourage one of the "party" to purchase tyre changing equipment. Not only lazy but tight ;).

By the way the last flat on the GT's was in town, VIC High Country, slow leak, found the flat after returning from lunch. Pumped tyre with borrowed compressor, drove to servo, purchased Tyreweld and "repaired" tyre, drove slowly to next servo a inflated to correct pressure. Returned to camp at Tom Groggin and later home (Sydney) no problem. Promptly replaced GT's with Coopers. GT' s are in garage now on original rims... noticed the other day that this tyre had since de-inflated! 'was pleased, however at my improvisation. Keep Tyreweld in car now.
Good luck
Shane