Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 22:13
You have an interesting decision. I had the same question, and ended up with a GXL live axle manual, to which I then added turbo, difflocks etc. My decision was based on wanting a manual turbo live axle, and the only way to achieve it was doing what I did. Having had the car for 6 or 7 months, I'm now not so sure I made a good decision. The 100 series is a nice vehicle to drive, but there are some issues.
The live axle 1HZ has a lighter gearbox (than the manual factory T/D) that can have problems with the extra power and torque, and mine seems quite notchy. I know that others have not had problems, but it is a concern. Many say you can't tow in fifth, but that argument might apply to any gearbox. The clutch on the 100 is known to often have a shudder in it, which can be more annoying than anything, but is there nonetheless. I had a lot of trouble with the turbo because the installer didn't know what he was doing and mucked it up, and another well known
shop (up near
Sydney, starting with B...) didn't know much better. If you do it, make sure you get someone good (not just with good advertising!!). The front diff in the 100 is quite weak, as I discovered two weeks ago when it
broke a crown wheel and pinion on level ground in the most benign circumstances (this weakness is common to all 100 series, but I thought it was less prevalent with the live axle with airlockers - hmm). Warranty is an issue as soon as you start modifying, and I'm unsure how I'd go if I wanted the clutch or gearbox looked at under warranty. Final annoying thing, the manual revs at 2500 at 100 km/h, whereas the auto is only doing 1900-2000.
GaryW (answer above) has the auto factory turbo GXL, and I've had 10000 km of recent comparisons with him in all circumstances. He has gone everywhere I have, and in a lot of cases, the auto has shown itself to be as good or the better option (except perhaps for down steep hills). He will laugh when he reads this, as I've always been a dyed in the wool manual driver, but even with the limitations of the IFS, I think I should have bought the auto factory T/D..... I will now go to and wash my mouth out with soap...
With the diff breaking, and the other weaknesses in the 100, I am even wondering whether I should have bought the 4.2 Nissan and given it some surgery to improve its performance. That is even more remarkable, given my outspoken loyalty to Toyota in the past. I fear that they just don't make them tough anymore, and if they continue, will lose their tough offroad reputation altogether. Nissan's big weakness is the old, tired engine (or the
young but inadequate engine), but at least it's tough, and the drivetrain is bulletproof - for now. Everyone is talking about them going IFS soon too....
Enough rambling. Those are the issues as far as I can see, and as long as you go into it with your eyes open, you'll be OK.
Regards,
Depressed Yota driver
AnswerID:
105800
Follow Up By: Member - Gary W (VIC) - Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 12:20
Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 12:20
Well dude - now its in writing. *grin*
Just thought I'd toss in two bobs that your broken diff might not indicate a weakness rather poor installation of the lockers. The mangled remains of a loose bolt in the diff is a pretty good indicator that someone didn't tighten it up properly.
I had understond that it was the IFS LC100's front diffs that were a problem not the RFS. I'd be interested in any first hand experiences of any LC100 RFS front diffs breaking.
Gaz
FollowupID:
362966
Follow Up By: Member - Bruce B (NSW) - Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 14:33
Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 14:33
In regards to the 'B' work on your turbo, taking a botched up job as you explained isn't going to get you good service no matter who you take it too. Is just human nature no one wants to be felt as second choice.
FollowupID:
362979
Follow Up By: Member - DOZER- Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 15:35
Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 15:35
Russell
Your front diff is a little stronger than the IFS one....both are not up to the task...the solid one keeps wheels on the ground better, so it has less pressure exerted on it as far as having to distribute torque...the 80 front diff was bad enough, then they made the cruiser heavier, and motor more torquey which puts more load on the hemi....
For what its worth....these things have been said on lcool.org aswell as here by Go offroad
1, have a solid pinion spacer installed into the pinion (instead of the collapseable one)
2, drill and tap out all the pumkin holding stud threads, and use 10mm ones (instead of the 8mm ones)
If you havnt done these alterations, i would sooner rather than later...
Andrew
FollowupID:
362984
Follow Up By: Member - Russell S - Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 20:17
Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 20:17
Gary, thought you'd be amused, but good point on the bolt. Looks as if I might get warranty from the installer - fingers crossed....
Bruce,
B's work on my turbo had nothing to do with being second choice, and everything to do with a flawed philosophy on turbo engines. They don't believe in aneroids, relying solely on the fuel screw. My engine had an aneroid on it as standard from the factory, which when used correctly meant that my engine produced 82 kw at the wheels compared to B's best effort of 57..... ( and blows no smoke, and gets better fuel economy)
Dozer,
will consult Go Offroad and lcool to learn more on this. I guess the diff has to come out again to do it..... any thoughts on the improvement in strength and the experience of those who've had it done?
FollowupID:
363002