Landcruiser GXL TDi4.2 or Standard 4.2 with aftermarket turbo plus extras?

Submitted: Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 09:29
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Go for the GXL 4.2TDi or get the Standard 4.2 and then use the $17-$20K you save (from not going for the GXL4.2TD) to put an aftermarket turbo, bullbar, lift kit etc.. etc?????

Landcruiser GXL TDi4.2 or Standard 4.2 with aftermarket turbo plus extras.What would you go for if you had about $70-$72K to spend?
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Reply By: flappa - Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 09:46

Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 09:46
I'm assuming brand new.

Depends if you want warranty or not ?
AnswerID: 105704

Follow Up By: tigertough12 - Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 10:49

Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 10:49
Yes brand new.

I assume once I add the turbo to the standard, the warranty is void on the engine only?

I was even thinking getting a standard from the auctions with about 40K-60K on clock with most things on it ie, bullbar, winch, towbar, dual battery, tow bar, cargo barrier but just a bit worried buying a 2nd hand diesel? Any thoughts on this?
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Follow Up By: flappa - Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 11:34

Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 11:34
Yes and No.

Technically , its up to them to prove the aftermarket item is what caused the failure , but , Yota have real problems with adding aftermarket stuff (talk to the IFS guys and their aftermarket suspension issues).

Its not that they wont agree to warranty work on other parts , but , they will make you work for it.

In a lot of cases , goodwill is golden.

I personally have a problem with Auctions.

Unless its changed , you dont have the opportunity to have an inspection done on an Auction vehicle , its take it as it is.

Knowing where , and who , have these vehicles , IMO , you are asking for trouble. Of course , plenty of people do it , and without dramas , I just wouldn't do it. Not for that much money.

PS to that though , Are the newer ones still under New vehicle warranty through auction . . . ? . . . maybe that IS some comfort. Although , a good old fashioned flogging wouldn't be cover regardless.
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Follow Up By: Rob from Cairns Offroad Training & Tours - Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 18:30

Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 18:30
I never buy my cars new even with fleet discount I refuse to cop the initial depreciation. Wait for the right car to come up if you are in a major town it wont take long. The factory turbos are a far superior car to the 1HZ in every way. More government departments are using the turbos now and they only keep them for 2 years or 40 klms. Expect to pay around 50k for a good one usually with alot of fruit. I recommend the auto over the manual the torque converter masks what little turbo lag they have. Cheers Rob
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Reply By: Alan S (NSW) - Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 10:13

Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 10:13
How important are electric windows to you? I went the standard and am adding the extras piece by piece, feels like it costs less this way....
AnswerID: 105705

Follow Up By: tigertough12 - Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 10:52

Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 10:52
yes thats why i was thinking going the standard way.
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Follow Up By: Alan S (NSW) - Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 10:57

Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 10:57
I bought mine from the auction with 33k on the clock, 2 years old. Took me six months to find a real clean one at the right price.

The vinyl / plastic floors are great if you go off road often and collect a lot of dirt etc. You can just brush all the dirt out. Many peole with GXL models etc spend a lot of money buying protection for the inside of their car but the standard already has it.

I guess it depends what you want to use it for and how deep your pockets are...
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Reply By: fozzy - Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 10:43

Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 10:43
tigertough12
could aslo look at gxl standard diesel with RFS not IFS and add turbo later
just a thought
cheers
fozzy
AnswerID: 105707

Reply By: Kiwi Ray - Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 10:55

Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 10:55
Hi . Buy the factory turbo model you are buying the years of design and developement plus the warranty.
Its a proven unit
Ray
AnswerID: 105709

Reply By: Jason M P - Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 11:50

Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 11:50
hi , i rather get standard 4.2 with RFS and wack on the aftermarket turbo and other gear. and still have more money in your pocket. 4.2 standard motor is good simple unit. can be fixed up out in the bush if anything goes wrong which you shouldn't need too anyway.just keep up the service.As i have a standard 4.2d 2001 with after market gear on it. has now done 160,000km trouble free.just keep up the maintance on the vehicle. cheers.
AnswerID: 105720

Reply By: The Blackman - Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 12:02

Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 12:02
Gday

Take a look at this March or Aprils 4WD Montlhy magazine. There is an article on adding aftermarket gear to a 4.5lt petrol 100 series compared to buying a brand spanker. Interesting read.

I drive the brand new 100 series TD all the time for work and absolutley love it, however the thought of a 3"lift, 35's, draws, bullbars, spotlights, turbo , non IFS etc on a model a few years older with money left over is very appealing indeed
AnswerID: 105721

Reply By: Member - Gary W (VIC) - Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 15:05

Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 15:05
Yep the IFS is the defining issue. The Factory Turbo is much better than the after market and bits of the drive train are stronger in the factory turbo. Bit if you can't cope with the IFS then the decision is easy. I opted for the factory turbo and do not regret it. With larger tyres and slightly wound up TBars I got a 50mm lift.

Gaz
AnswerID: 105737

Follow Up By: Glenn D - Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 19:14

Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 19:14
Hows it going Gaz,

Lovely generalization, you obviously know all there is to know about every aftermarket turbo sytem available for the 100 series.

Also I was wondering if you could tell us what parts are stronger in the drive train ??,

thanks

Glenn
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Follow Up By: Member - Gary W (VIC) - Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 12:14

Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 12:14
Sorry Glenn - didn't wish to sound like a know it all. Just expressing an opinion (I thought it was a given in a forum that we were expressing opinions not claiming infallable knowledge).

My comments were related to the fact that the factory turbo has computer controlled electronic injectors etc. which provides a better outcome than aftermarket turbos (on normally asparated engines) can without risking motor longevity.

Re. Stronger Drivetrain - I understand the gearbox in the Factory Turbo is stronger than that of the manual. Not sure what else.

Again appologies - I am not claiming to be an expert just contributing to the discussion.

Gaz
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FollowupID: 362965

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 20:20

Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 20:20
Its also worth considering the 78series Troopie or the 79series traytop for about the same money as the basic 105 series.

That way you get the 1HD-FTE Factory Turbo-diesel, rigid front axle, parttime 4wd, 1200kgs payload and the stronger gearbox etc And the RV versions have all the bells and whistles like central locking, electric windows etc if you want that.

Downside is you can't get an auto.

Cheers
Phil
AnswerID: 105781

Reply By: Member - DOZER- Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 20:45

Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 20:45
Gday
Youve got a good overall collection of opinions above...now its up to you to be honest with yourself and buy what you will use most...
The t/d wont be as good off road, but on, it is no contest....and there are difflocks optional for the rear...if you want to ask the Leylands....
It will always keep its value being a t/d.....and, for my 5 cents worth...buy a preloved one already ran in and warrenty issues solved is a good idea...aslong as service records can be proved. You will find all gov cruisers have been serviced well, but most are left out in the elements which isnt a good start to life...however, cruisers now a days dont suffer from the metal moth.
There was one in the 4 sale section of www.lcool.org a while ago
Andrew
b4 you bag me out, walk a mile in my shoes, then your a mile away and have my shoes :)

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Reply By: Peter 2 - Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 21:19

Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 21:19
A standard solid axle diesel GXL apparently has the same manual transmission as a Prado.
A friend has done exactly what you are thinking of doing, he bought a brand new NA 1hz GXL, fitted an aftermarket turbo and all the necessary bits as he didn't want the IFS.
Peter
1996 Oka Motorhome

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Follow Up By: Member - DOZER- Sunday, Apr 10, 2005 at 12:58

Sunday, Apr 10, 2005 at 12:58
Hi
I may be way out of line here, but i think it has more to do with not having the proper equipment to set it up to begin with....so the max fuel screw is a way to get you out the door with a power increase without removing the fuel pump and sending it to a pump room for callibration.
Did you know that there is extra low down power to be made on your cruiser by fitting a electric fuel pump to the fuel line?? Sort of supply instead of scavenge setup...and you can also run those extra fuel filters without power loss aswell....you will find this in the tech pages of lcool aswell.

I run thesame setup as you in my 80, i am very careful with the front diff, next time it comes out i will do as i have said myself...hopefully it wont be from finding out the hard way.
Andrew
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Reply By: Member - Russell S - Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 22:13

Friday, Apr 08, 2005 at 22:13
You have an interesting decision. I had the same question, and ended up with a GXL live axle manual, to which I then added turbo, difflocks etc. My decision was based on wanting a manual turbo live axle, and the only way to achieve it was doing what I did. Having had the car for 6 or 7 months, I'm now not so sure I made a good decision. The 100 series is a nice vehicle to drive, but there are some issues.

The live axle 1HZ has a lighter gearbox (than the manual factory T/D) that can have problems with the extra power and torque, and mine seems quite notchy. I know that others have not had problems, but it is a concern. Many say you can't tow in fifth, but that argument might apply to any gearbox. The clutch on the 100 is known to often have a shudder in it, which can be more annoying than anything, but is there nonetheless. I had a lot of trouble with the turbo because the installer didn't know what he was doing and mucked it up, and another well known shop (up near Sydney, starting with B...) didn't know much better. If you do it, make sure you get someone good (not just with good advertising!!). The front diff in the 100 is quite weak, as I discovered two weeks ago when it broke a crown wheel and pinion on level ground in the most benign circumstances (this weakness is common to all 100 series, but I thought it was less prevalent with the live axle with airlockers - hmm). Warranty is an issue as soon as you start modifying, and I'm unsure how I'd go if I wanted the clutch or gearbox looked at under warranty. Final annoying thing, the manual revs at 2500 at 100 km/h, whereas the auto is only doing 1900-2000.
GaryW (answer above) has the auto factory turbo GXL, and I've had 10000 km of recent comparisons with him in all circumstances. He has gone everywhere I have, and in a lot of cases, the auto has shown itself to be as good or the better option (except perhaps for down steep hills). He will laugh when he reads this, as I've always been a dyed in the wool manual driver, but even with the limitations of the IFS, I think I should have bought the auto factory T/D..... I will now go to and wash my mouth out with soap...

With the diff breaking, and the other weaknesses in the 100, I am even wondering whether I should have bought the 4.2 Nissan and given it some surgery to improve its performance. That is even more remarkable, given my outspoken loyalty to Toyota in the past. I fear that they just don't make them tough anymore, and if they continue, will lose their tough offroad reputation altogether. Nissan's big weakness is the old, tired engine (or the young but inadequate engine), but at least it's tough, and the drivetrain is bulletproof - for now. Everyone is talking about them going IFS soon too....

Enough rambling. Those are the issues as far as I can see, and as long as you go into it with your eyes open, you'll be OK.

Regards,
Depressed Yota driver
AnswerID: 105800

Follow Up By: Member - Gary W (VIC) - Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 12:20

Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 12:20
Well dude - now its in writing. *grin*

Just thought I'd toss in two bobs that your broken diff might not indicate a weakness rather poor installation of the lockers. The mangled remains of a loose bolt in the diff is a pretty good indicator that someone didn't tighten it up properly.

I had understond that it was the IFS LC100's front diffs that were a problem not the RFS. I'd be interested in any first hand experiences of any LC100 RFS front diffs breaking.

Gaz
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Follow Up By: Member - Bruce B (NSW) - Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 14:33

Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 14:33
In regards to the 'B' work on your turbo, taking a botched up job as you explained isn't going to get you good service no matter who you take it too. Is just human nature no one wants to be felt as second choice.
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Follow Up By: Member - DOZER- Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 15:35

Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 15:35
Russell
Your front diff is a little stronger than the IFS one....both are not up to the task...the solid one keeps wheels on the ground better, so it has less pressure exerted on it as far as having to distribute torque...the 80 front diff was bad enough, then they made the cruiser heavier, and motor more torquey which puts more load on the hemi....
For what its worth....these things have been said on lcool.org aswell as here by Go offroad
1, have a solid pinion spacer installed into the pinion (instead of the collapseable one)
2, drill and tap out all the pumkin holding stud threads, and use 10mm ones (instead of the 8mm ones)
If you havnt done these alterations, i would sooner rather than later...
Andrew
b4 you bag me out, walk a mile in my shoes, then your a mile away and have my shoes :)

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Follow Up By: Member - Russell S - Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 20:17

Saturday, Apr 09, 2005 at 20:17
Gary, thought you'd be amused, but good point on the bolt. Looks as if I might get warranty from the installer - fingers crossed....

Bruce,
B's work on my turbo had nothing to do with being second choice, and everything to do with a flawed philosophy on turbo engines. They don't believe in aneroids, relying solely on the fuel screw. My engine had an aneroid on it as standard from the factory, which when used correctly meant that my engine produced 82 kw at the wheels compared to B's best effort of 57..... ( and blows no smoke, and gets better fuel economy)

Dozer,
will consult Go Offroad and lcool to learn more on this. I guess the diff has to come out again to do it..... any thoughts on the improvement in strength and the experience of those who've had it done?
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Reply By: tigertough12 - Wednesday, Apr 13, 2005 at 14:36

Wednesday, Apr 13, 2005 at 14:36
Thanks for all your replies everyone, much appreciated.

After reading all your opinions i'm starting to lean towards factory GXL 4.2TDi as a really want an auto to make life easier for me when towing the boat..

If only the standard (live axle) came in a factory 4.2TDi and auto, then the decision would be easy
AnswerID: 106527

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