Thursday, Apr 14, 2005 at 23:04
G'day Trevor,
Well, what can I say..... I am still trying to solve my over-heating problem. On top of the tings you've mentioned, I've also cut a hole in the bonnet above the turbo and installed a Nissan scoop (don't waste your money doing that...). I've also fitted an 10" Davies Craig electric fan in front of the air con condensor (don't waste your money on that either....). As for the bigger radiator; great bit of kit, looks fantastic....but it hasn't killed the problem!!!!......
I've ordered a new thermostat (should be here tomorrow) and will try to
check the old one when I pull it out to see if it still opens up as far as it should, by immersing it into a sauspan of boiling water and seeing how far it opens. I'm not sure if I'll attack the new one with a 1/8" drill bit like was recently suggested....might leave that til I see if the new one has any effect in standard form.
I'm also in the process of installing 3 more gauges from VDO.... coolant temp (I'm gunna try to get a fitting that I can stick in the middle of the top radiator hose; it shows as being available in the installation instructions, but I haven't seen it in the VDO catalogue......that would save me having to get another special adaptor machined up so the 1/8" NPBT sender unit can be used (as the Nissan has 1/8" BSPT threads......0ne is 27 tpi, the other is 28 tpi !!!!!).
The 2nd gauge is an oil temp gauge, the sender for which I plan to fit where I have the oil pressure gauge sender already mounted, down on
the block behind the air conditioner compressor.
The 3rd is a Boost gauge.
I have just got all the gauges today and have installed them on the dash, but haven't hooked anything up as yet.
Pesty, (mate of
mine even though he does drive a toyota,,,hahahaha) reckons I should also be getting the timing re-checked. He maintains that if the timing is slightly too far advanced, it could be causing overheating....but I would have thought that might also reflect in the Exhaust Gas Temps......I have a digital gauge for measuring these already, and they seem to be
well within the acceptable standards, even when the Nissan' coolant temp gauge is approaching the "H". That's why I wanted to install a decent coolant gauge as I have no way of knowing whether the beast is REALLY getting too hot, or is it just a whacky gauge???? Time will tell.
Rest assured mate, as soon as anything worth reporting is worked out, I'll be posting on here. What I am really hoping is that when I see the Nissan's gauge going into the "H" area, the VDO gauge will be showing only a very small increase in temp.
The other thing I will be doing is installing another bottom radiator hose. I have asked around to see if anyone knows about the stainless steel coil spring wire that I thought was readily available (but isn't!!!!). Another alternative might be to either cut out the centre section of the lower hose and replace it with a length of stainless steel pipe and just have the right angle ribber elbows top and bottom, OR replace the bottom hose with a length of that concertina-type hose (which I thinks has re-inforcing wire moulded into it), like they seem to use on the Chev 6.5 litre V8 conversions).
So there you have it....still a lot of things to
check on and try.
Cheers mate
Roachie
AnswerID:
106813
Follow Up By: theratt - Thursday, Apr 14, 2005 at 23:37
Thursday, Apr 14, 2005 at 23:37
i would suggest you look at the radiator i have a 2003 model which has been modified by MTQ i have never had a cooling problem but as i am aware from 2003 onwards the radiators where upsized to the 4.8 petrol radiator which is bigger
i think you will find its the earlier models that are getting hot , so you should look at what the differences are?
FollowupID:
363797
Follow Up By: Truckster (Vic) - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 02:05
Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 02:05
I have asked around to see if anyone knows about the stainless steel coil spring wire that I thought was readily available (but isn't!!!!).
you buy a ford hose and remove the coil. wind it into yours.
FollowupID:
363799
Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:07
Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:07
Thanks blokes,
Hey, ratt, I've put in a you-beaut, $1,100- all-aluminium radiator with double the capacity and was led to believe this could keep a diesel train engine cool!!!! It is certainly much bigger than the 4.8 petrol's radiator, so I'm convinced it's not the radiator's inefficiency that's the problem.
Truckster, thanks for the idea.....why the phrigg didn't I think of that????????? haha
Cheers
Roachie
FollowupID:
363818
Follow Up By: trendy - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:59
Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:59
Thanx for responding Roachie I will keep you posted on an idea an old farmer told me to try just the other day. That is to use a wiper motor to irragate the front af the radiator via a garden sprinkler system ( the small black poly type )
FollowupID:
363837
Follow Up By: Andrew (Whyalla) - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 18:22
Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 18:22
Roachie
Have you noticed that the GU Grille and Badge blocks about 40% of the opening???? That could be something else to consider.
I have the steel Nissan (ARB) Winch bar and Hella 4000s and my 1999 TD42T doesnt suffer from overheating.
Andrew
FollowupID:
363900
Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Saturday, Apr 16, 2005 at 18:59
Saturday, Apr 16, 2005 at 18:59
Trevor,....I have also heard of the irrigation system, but can't find anywhere suitable to put another
water tank....probably a aftermarket windscreen washer bottle with built in pump in behind the bullbar.
Andrew, I know that the big "NISSAN" on the grille of the old GQ was something to get rid of. I haven't thought of whether the GU's grille could be a issue. I'm starting to lean towards the over-fuelling &/or timing issues and will need to get both of those things looked at by a competent diesel mechanic.
Cheers blokes
Roachie
FollowupID:
364015
Follow Up By: G.T. - Monday, Apr 18, 2005 at 15:51
Monday, Apr 18, 2005 at 15:51
By the time you read this it may be too late --- I am a shift worker and get Mon/Tues off so hence my late reply.To
check a thermostat with out damaging it is to place it in COLD water and then heat it up. You may damage the thermostat otherwise.
If you put a thermometer in the water as
well you can see at what temperature the thermostat commences to open , and at what temperature it is fully open. The fully open position is usually the marked temperature on the thermostat. It can be a bit awkward to read the thermometer as steam gets in the way. By the way, suspend the thermostat and thermometer in the water so as not to get a false reading from the heat coming up from your
cook top. Also don`t use a kitchen pot or similar with a old thermostat as scunge off it can dirty it up much to the better half`s disdain. Have fun , don`t scald yourself!
Regards G.T.
FollowupID:
364203