Roachie's overheating patrol

Submitted: Thursday, Apr 14, 2005 at 22:14
ThreadID: 22071 Views:4437 Replies:13 FollowUps:26
This Thread has been Archived
can roachie, or anyone else that has tried to fix a 4.2 turbo nissan patrol GU, tell me that they have solved their problem. I have been going through old posts and roachie's name and suggested solutions come up a lot. I have tried all the simple explanations like radiator clean inside and out, silicone in clutch fan, new cooler thermostat, radiator caps, airflow obstructions ect ect. Have even got 3" mandrel bent exhaust with dump pipe at back of turbo and had it intercooled with no success so now intercooler sitting in shed. Am interested in PWR radiators and MTQ turbo upgrades if any independant views on either of these products could shed some light on my, one and only gripe with my 2000 gu 4.2 turbo, the overheating. Have had the vehicle since new and it has done this all along. Thanks in anticipation, Trevor.
Back Expand Un-Read 0 Moderator

Reply By: Member - 'Lucy' - Thursday, Apr 14, 2005 at 22:22

Thursday, Apr 14, 2005 at 22:22
Trendy

When you say MTQ upgrade, do I make the the assumption that you have had an aftermarket DTS turbo fitted.

If so, did you have the pump removed and calibrated etc to match the turbo including the injectors when the turbo was fitted , or did the turbo fitter just adjust the fuel screw/control on the pump to 'suit/match' the new turbo.
AnswerID: 106806

Follow Up By: trendy - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:42

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:42
The upgrade I had done was a safari intercooler kit plus 3" mandrel bent exhaust, this was done pre-delivery when the vehicle was brand new so all the pump and injectors were likely to have been set to their specs before I received the vehicle. But rest assured the pump and injectors have since been taken off and re-callibrated to nissan specs twice, so now without the intercooler and all the extra power I used to have. But frustratingly still running hot for sure as vdo gauge measures temp right beside nissan sender unit and vdo gauge can often hit 118c plus, but I am cautious not to let the car get this hot too often normally about 100- 110c.
0
FollowupID: 363833

Reply By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Thursday, Apr 14, 2005 at 23:04

Thursday, Apr 14, 2005 at 23:04
G'day Trevor,
Well, what can I say..... I am still trying to solve my over-heating problem. On top of the tings you've mentioned, I've also cut a hole in the bonnet above the turbo and installed a Nissan scoop (don't waste your money doing that...). I've also fitted an 10" Davies Craig electric fan in front of the air con condensor (don't waste your money on that either....). As for the bigger radiator; great bit of kit, looks fantastic....but it hasn't killed the problem!!!!......

I've ordered a new thermostat (should be here tomorrow) and will try to check the old one when I pull it out to see if it still opens up as far as it should, by immersing it into a sauspan of boiling water and seeing how far it opens. I'm not sure if I'll attack the new one with a 1/8" drill bit like was recently suggested....might leave that til I see if the new one has any effect in standard form.

I'm also in the process of installing 3 more gauges from VDO.... coolant temp (I'm gunna try to get a fitting that I can stick in the middle of the top radiator hose; it shows as being available in the installation instructions, but I haven't seen it in the VDO catalogue......that would save me having to get another special adaptor machined up so the 1/8" NPBT sender unit can be used (as the Nissan has 1/8" BSPT threads......0ne is 27 tpi, the other is 28 tpi !!!!!).
The 2nd gauge is an oil temp gauge, the sender for which I plan to fit where I have the oil pressure gauge sender already mounted, down on the block behind the air conditioner compressor.
The 3rd is a Boost gauge.
I have just got all the gauges today and have installed them on the dash, but haven't hooked anything up as yet.
Pesty, (mate of mine even though he does drive a toyota,,,hahahaha) reckons I should also be getting the timing re-checked. He maintains that if the timing is slightly too far advanced, it could be causing overheating....but I would have thought that might also reflect in the Exhaust Gas Temps......I have a digital gauge for measuring these already, and they seem to be well within the acceptable standards, even when the Nissan' coolant temp gauge is approaching the "H". That's why I wanted to install a decent coolant gauge as I have no way of knowing whether the beast is REALLY getting too hot, or is it just a whacky gauge???? Time will tell.
Rest assured mate, as soon as anything worth reporting is worked out, I'll be posting on here. What I am really hoping is that when I see the Nissan's gauge going into the "H" area, the VDO gauge will be showing only a very small increase in temp.
The other thing I will be doing is installing another bottom radiator hose. I have asked around to see if anyone knows about the stainless steel coil spring wire that I thought was readily available (but isn't!!!!). Another alternative might be to either cut out the centre section of the lower hose and replace it with a length of stainless steel pipe and just have the right angle ribber elbows top and bottom, OR replace the bottom hose with a length of that concertina-type hose (which I thinks has re-inforcing wire moulded into it), like they seem to use on the Chev 6.5 litre V8 conversions).
So there you have it....still a lot of things to check on and try.
Cheers mate
Roachie
AnswerID: 106813

Follow Up By: theratt - Thursday, Apr 14, 2005 at 23:37

Thursday, Apr 14, 2005 at 23:37
i would suggest you look at the radiator i have a 2003 model which has been modified by MTQ i have never had a cooling problem but as i am aware from 2003 onwards the radiators where upsized to the 4.8 petrol radiator which is bigger

i think you will find its the earlier models that are getting hot , so you should look at what the differences are?
0
FollowupID: 363797

Follow Up By: Truckster (Vic) - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 02:05

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 02:05
I have asked around to see if anyone knows about the stainless steel coil spring wire that I thought was readily available (but isn't!!!!).

you buy a ford hose and remove the coil. wind it into yours.
0
FollowupID: 363799

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:07

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:07
Thanks blokes,
Hey, ratt, I've put in a you-beaut, $1,100- all-aluminium radiator with double the capacity and was led to believe this could keep a diesel train engine cool!!!! It is certainly much bigger than the 4.8 petrol's radiator, so I'm convinced it's not the radiator's inefficiency that's the problem.

Truckster, thanks for the idea.....why the phrigg didn't I think of that????????? haha

Cheers

Roachie
0
FollowupID: 363818

Follow Up By: trendy - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:59

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:59
Thanx for responding Roachie I will keep you posted on an idea an old farmer told me to try just the other day. That is to use a wiper motor to irragate the front af the radiator via a garden sprinkler system ( the small black poly type )
0
FollowupID: 363837

Follow Up By: Andrew (Whyalla) - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 18:22

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 18:22
Roachie

Have you noticed that the GU Grille and Badge blocks about 40% of the opening???? That could be something else to consider.

I have the steel Nissan (ARB) Winch bar and Hella 4000s and my 1999 TD42T doesnt suffer from overheating.

Andrew
0
FollowupID: 363900

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Saturday, Apr 16, 2005 at 18:59

Saturday, Apr 16, 2005 at 18:59
Trevor,....I have also heard of the irrigation system, but can't find anywhere suitable to put another water tank....probably a aftermarket windscreen washer bottle with built in pump in behind the bullbar.

Andrew, I know that the big "NISSAN" on the grille of the old GQ was something to get rid of. I haven't thought of whether the GU's grille could be a issue. I'm starting to lean towards the over-fuelling &/or timing issues and will need to get both of those things looked at by a competent diesel mechanic.

Cheers blokes

Roachie
0
FollowupID: 364015

Follow Up By: G.T. - Monday, Apr 18, 2005 at 15:51

Monday, Apr 18, 2005 at 15:51
By the time you read this it may be too late --- I am a shift worker and get Mon/Tues off so hence my late reply.To check a thermostat with out damaging it is to place it in COLD water and then heat it up. You may damage the thermostat otherwise.
If you put a thermometer in the water as well you can see at what temperature the thermostat commences to open , and at what temperature it is fully open. The fully open position is usually the marked temperature on the thermostat. It can be a bit awkward to read the thermometer as steam gets in the way. By the way, suspend the thermostat and thermometer in the water so as not to get a false reading from the heat coming up from your cook top. Also don`t use a kitchen pot or similar with a old thermostat as scunge off it can dirty it up much to the better half`s disdain. Have fun , don`t scald yourself!
Regards G.T.
0
FollowupID: 364203

Reply By: trippin around - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 01:08

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 01:08
hi trendy, no idea about overheating pootrols as i own a LANDCRUISER, but have noticed in the 4x4 trader mag an ad about a triple flow radiator, not to be confused with a triple core radiator, so maybe talking to these boys might be a solution. cant give you the contact details as SWMBO said to clean out my library. hope this helps you, roachie and anyelse in this predicament. regards bob h
AnswerID: 106820

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:08

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:08
Thanks Bob,

I'll keep that one in reserve....

Cheers mate

Roachie
0
FollowupID: 363819

Reply By: Wayne (NSW) - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 06:41

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 06:41
Trendy,

Sounds like you have tried just about everthing, but you have not said what coolant you are using. Is it genuine Nissan stuff and is it mixed to the right mix?

The gauge could also be out a bit, a massed produced item may be showing hotter than normal. Like Roachie, a aftermarket gauge might be the answer.

Good luck with the project,

Wayne
AnswerID: 106824

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:10

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:10
G'day Wayne,

I'm using Techtalloy 90+ but admit I cannot be sure if I'm using it in exactly the right quantity. I will try to make sure of this too, next time I fill it up.

Cya mate

Roachie
0
FollowupID: 363820

Reply By: Member - John - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 08:09

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 08:09
Trendy and others, The triple flow radiators are not a good product in my opinion, replaced the radiator in my 2.8TD GQ with one and when the motor $hit it self about 6 months later, the radiator was already corroding??? Also re MTQ turbo mods, have had this mod done to my GU and comparing EGTs with a mates modded GU much much lower and I don't have an overheating problem, been full throttle in 40c temps and no problems. Just my two cents worth. MTQ mods and 3" exhaust have taken kw from 72 to 120 at rear wheels.
John and Jan

Lifetime Member
My Profile  My Position  Send Message

AnswerID: 106840

Reply By: Nudenut - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 08:17

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 08:17
I was going to ask if " how sure are you that it is overheating"....but it looks as if your gunna check this out ...

can the pump circulate the required amount of coolant to radiator.
A pump that does give sufficient circulation will allow overheating to happen within the block. (The radiator would/could shows symptons of "general" overheating when the engine stops.)

I would really check temps acurately first though.
AnswerID: 106843

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:12

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:12
Thanks Richard,

Once I get the gauge plumbed up I'll have a better chance of knowing for sure.

Cheers

Roachie
0
FollowupID: 363821

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:15

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:15
Forgot to mention, I'm also considering fitting a Davies Craig water pump (electric) into the lower radiator hose. This might have 2 benefits: The obvious one is that it will help ensure the coolant circulates well (so I would need to be able to control both when it comes on and how fast it spins....also need to find out if it will allow coolant to flow past even if it is not switched on?) . Secondly, it would assist prevent the lower hose from sucking in on itself.
0
FollowupID: 363825

Follow Up By: flappa - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:42

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:42
Just a thought.

Years ago , I had an old holden that had bad overheating issues.

I had no thermostat , fancy fans , all sorts of things .

Apparently , the problem was . . . the coolant was flowing TOO quickly. It didn't have a chance to soak up any heat from the motor.

Maybe . . . . by circultaing the coolant so efficiently . . . its causing its own problems.

Thats just what I can remember . . . NFI if its right or not ?
0
FollowupID: 363832

Follow Up By: Nudenut - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 13:25

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 13:25
flappa, if the water wasnt picking up heat....why was it overheaing?
0
FollowupID: 363856

Follow Up By: Michael ( Moss Vale NSW) - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 15:37

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 15:37
Hey Roachie, you havent got a restrictive insect screen in front of your radiator, have you? How about 8 pairs of spotties on the Bull Bar??
Patrol 4.2TDi 2003

Retired 2016 and now Out and About!

There's time to rest when you're dead,
Get out and do something instead!

Member
My Profile  My Blog  My Position  Send Message

0
FollowupID: 363867

Follow Up By: Nudenut - Saturday, Apr 16, 2005 at 10:51

Saturday, Apr 16, 2005 at 10:51
another thought on michael's reply above....
have you always had this problem...bull bar with turbo?

some bull bars restrict airflow to radiator
0
FollowupID: 363981

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Saturday, Apr 16, 2005 at 19:06

Saturday, Apr 16, 2005 at 19:06
Michael, No insect screen in front of radiator. I only have one pair of spotties, but they are Lightforce 240s, so are pretty big. However, I have previously had them mounted on the top of the bar (using the 2 lugs designed for antenna placement) and the thing overheated then as well.

Nudie, you could be onto something...I do have an early model ARB bullbar and have noticed their current GU bar has a horizontal gap between the 2 main uprights, which I can only assume they redesigned so that more air can get through.

Might have to see if I can sell-off the old b/bar in favour of a new one.

Thanks blokes,

Roachie
0
FollowupID: 364017

Follow Up By: Nudenut - Sunday, Apr 17, 2005 at 20:54

Sunday, Apr 17, 2005 at 20:54
i know it hard to predict ...but on prediction of a hot spell try your 2wd with the bull bar..if it overheats take off the bull bar and run again...does it overheat?
0
FollowupID: 364122

Reply By: duncs - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:32

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:32
Ok guys can I ask when the oveheating shows up?

My4.2 GU also overheats but only when towing and climbing on hot days under big throttle openings. I can generally control it by slowing down a little selecting a loweer gear and lifting the right foot slightly. THe engine revs a bit higher but with a light throttle the temp doesn't climb. This suggests to me that it is a fuel thing. That was definately the prblem when my turbo GQ was overheating. I checked everything on that, even rebuilt the head. A good fuel system service fixed the prob and delivered much improved performance too. The same service also fixed a mates 80 series cruiser with overheating probs.

All the fixes you are talking about sound very expensive, especially if they are not working. The fuel system service seems relatively simple, needs to be done sometime anyway and for me at least, it worked.

The hard part is finding a good fuel system service.

Duncs
AnswerID: 106860

Follow Up By: trendy - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:54

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 10:54
Everything you said is true with my 2000 model GU 4.2 turbo. Have noticed if I can keep the throttle under 3/4 and revs under 3000 the thing will climb and climb without major heating up. But this is not allways possible with 2 1/2 tonne plus on the back. But that said the wife was able to run the car hot up a range near Inverell/Glen Innes without the trailer in tow.
0
FollowupID: 363835

Reply By: Member - 'Lucy' - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 12:56

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 12:56
G'day Trevor

Could you please send your email addy to Me at

krobbo@optusnet.com.au

Ken Robinson
AnswerID: 106885

Reply By: Peter 2 - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 13:04

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 13:04
You can have too much coolant in the system, coolant itself doesn't conduct heat as well as straight water.
There is a product from Redline called Water Wetter which claims to decrease coolant temps by up to 20 degrees.
While I don't have a cooling problem with my truck I have put some in and did notice slightly lower temps and decreased cooling fan cycling.
There are two water wetters, one for diesel (dark grey colour) and one for petrol, (bright red/pink colour)
I've aslo had the problem mentioned about the coolant flowing too quickly on a previous vehicle.
As has been mentioned overfuelling can and will cause heat problems, a lack of black smoke isn't necessarily a sign that all is good.
Peter
1996 Oka Motorhome

Member
My Profile  My Position  Send Message

AnswerID: 106887

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Saturday, Apr 16, 2005 at 19:12

Saturday, Apr 16, 2005 at 19:12
Thanks Peter,
I reckon I looked at Redline's website a while back following somebody saying on here that they don't use coolant AT ALL....only water plus this redline stuff. I think it contains glycol which is the necessary component of coolant which prevents corrosion. The theory was (from memory) that water actually cools better than coolant, but that you need the addative as well.

Where do you get your Redline stuff from?

Roachie
0
FollowupID: 364019

Follow Up By: Peter 2 - Saturday, Apr 16, 2005 at 20:03

Saturday, Apr 16, 2005 at 20:03
Roachie
I got it at Coventry Auto Parts at Alexandria here in Sydney.
apparently it works so well that the computer geeks that overclock their CPU's and then fit liquid cooling/radiator systems to keep them cool use it as it stops corrosion and conducts heat really well.
The website is http://www.redlineoil.com.au/home.asp
There is a link to distributors as well as info on the product.

Peter
Peter
1996 Oka Motorhome

Member
My Profile  My Position  Send Message

0
FollowupID: 364026

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Sunday, Apr 17, 2005 at 16:43

Sunday, Apr 17, 2005 at 16:43
G'day Peter,
My broadband modem has been a bit hit n miss over the last couple of days...intermittent fault. Anyway, I had a closer look at their website and have ordered 3 bottles of their pretty pink stuff. I'll totally flush the cooling system and re-fill with rain water plus 2 or 3 bottles of water wetter......NO other coolant. The website indicates that the "diesel" version doesn't have any rust inhibitors and is only designed for whopping great diesel engines; not automotive ones. The pink one is for petrol and diesel engines and can be used with coolant as well.

If anything, in the past I've probably used more coolant than the recommended doseage (I always reckon more must be better, but I know there are occasions when this simply isn't the case. It sounds like coolant mix is one of those occasions.

Thanks mate

Roachie
0
FollowupID: 364101

Follow Up By: Peter 2 - Sunday, Apr 17, 2005 at 18:15

Sunday, Apr 17, 2005 at 18:15
One bottle should be more than sufficient Roachie, but yes if you have to order some then order twice as much to put into 'Stock.
Peter'
Peter
1996 Oka Motorhome

Member
My Profile  My Position  Send Message

0
FollowupID: 364110

Reply By: Exploder - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 17:04

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 17:04
Hi all
You have covered all the major possibility’s so just a few simple things

Electric water pump is a good idea as if you have fitted a larger radiator the standard pump will have trouble pushing all that extra water around. Also the coolant you are using is it premix? If it is don’t that stuff is s*ht.
Does the Techtalloy 90+ meet Nissan’s cooling system protection standards?

When you mix the coolant make it 30 to 40% coolant and the rest-distilled water anything over 50% coolant and it will overheat on a hot day.
AnswerID: 106914

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Saturday, Apr 16, 2005 at 19:15

Saturday, Apr 16, 2005 at 19:15
Thanks mate, I don't use premix; use concentrated and top up with rain water. Maybe I should drain some of it out and top up with rainwater. I haven't checked with Nissan as to whether the 90+ is okay, but the bottle's directions seemed to indicate it should be okay.
Cheers
Roachie
0
FollowupID: 364020

Reply By: trendy - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 17:57

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 17:57
Thanx for everyone's ideas and I will post the solution here when and if I solve this problem
AnswerID: 106928

Reply By: greenant - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 20:26

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 20:26
Just a thought do you have a Glind shower under the bonnet connected up incorrectly and cooling water recirculating thru the engine and the radiator

Greenant
AnswerID: 106950

Follow Up By: trendy - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 20:53

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 20:53
greenant I think I have already checked this out but not sure so I will follow this up thanx.
0
FollowupID: 363931

Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Saturday, Apr 16, 2005 at 19:18

Saturday, Apr 16, 2005 at 19:18
Greenant,
I have a Twine shower, but can't see that it could have anything to do with the problem as I've simply plumbed it into the hose going "TO" the firewall....nothing fancy.

Cheers

Roachie
0
FollowupID: 364022

Reply By: greenant - Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 20:27

Friday, Apr 15, 2005 at 20:27
sorry should be not the radiator
AnswerID: 106951

Sponsored Links

Popular Products (13)