Jackaroo t/d clutch

Submitted: Sunday, Apr 17, 2005 at 21:33

ThreadID: 22151 Views:7228 Replies:4 FollowUps:6

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yackaroo

We purchased our 2000 t/d jackaroo 6 months ago. Prior to purchase we did the right thing and had a mechanical check done, which for the most part revealed a well looked after car. However the mechanic did find the clutch was sitting very high (in relation to the other pedals) and was engaging very late, he also found that by "flaring" the clutch there was some slipping... In his opinion the clutch needed replacing costing around $900-$1000???. 6 months later i am now looking at replacing the clutch (although it is still not slipping under normal use), but to my surprise after having several quotes i find that the clutch kit is more like $1500 installed but they wont warrenty this instalation because the fly wheel cant be machined. warrenty is only if i had the flywheel replaced aswell costing another $800. Having said that there was 1 mob that said they had a special machine that can machine the jackaroo flywheel. others have told me that the fly wheel has "do not machine" scribed into it. Has anyone had experiance with this? will the clutch last with the original unmachined flywheel?

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Reply By: Member - Darryl - Sunday, Apr 17, 2005 at 23:04

Sunday, Apr 17, 2005 at 23:04

Yackaroo,
I have the same model jack as you and the clutch pedal was higher than the other pedals.The clutch travel was like you say engageing very late in travel. This does not mean the clutch is on the way out.I simply adjusted the pedal with the adjustments on the linkages behind the pedal and they now line up and function in my view spot on .I have not had a hint of trouble even when towing.With all the modern vehicles with clutches minus asbestos and the subsuquent flywheels made of other materials that are not machineable (not sure of jackaroo)is becoming a problem with engines being able to produce more power etc . Isuszu generally have a good name in drive trains as i can say confidently with a rodeo that has towed from o km to 150 000 km with original clutch.

Hope this helps

Darryl

AnswerID: 107182

Follow Up By: yackaroo - Monday, Apr 18, 2005 at 19:59

Monday, Apr 18, 2005 at 19:59

Darryl,
Thanks for the feed back, but i had a look at the adjustment you mentioned and lowering pedal looks like it will dissengage drive. It is fully dissengaged after pushing the pedal down about 30mm. this is about the amount that the pedal sits up from the brake pedal. i wish it was that simple!!

FollowupID: 364242

Reply By: Tim - Monday, Apr 18, 2005 at 16:47

Monday, Apr 18, 2005 at 16:47

Yackaroo,
I think I have posted about this before as it happend to me about 2 years ago to a 99TD Jack.
The clutch is called a dual mass fly wheel, basicallly most clutches have 3 parts, the jack has 2 as 2 parts are joined together. When you get a new clutch, you have to get the part which is normally the 2 pieces (hence the dual bit).
Now with mine, Newcastle gearbox and diff sent it to a place at maitland (Carters Clutches I think) who made no promises but were aiming at splitting the dual part. They did this succesfully and put it back together with no dramas.
Total cost was $800 and and came with full warranty etc etc.
Check them out if your near newcastle, they explained everything to me and were really good, had the car off the road for just 2 days which was quite good considering the work that was done.
Tim

AnswerID: 107258

Follow Up By: yackaroo - Monday, Apr 18, 2005 at 20:13

Monday, Apr 18, 2005 at 20:13

Tim,
This is the sort of positive info im after 8-). Can you remember what the symptoms of your worn clutch were or shudder, slipping or pedal height? Unfortunatley Im nowhere near Newcastle, however its probably worth my while to give these blokes a ring and rack there brains. Even if i can get away without replacing the flywheel and just fitting the kit I would be happy, sounds like you have done OK without replacing it. how many Ks on the new clutch.

FollowupID: 364243

Follow Up By: Tim - Tuesday, Apr 19, 2005 at 17:38

Tuesday, Apr 19, 2005 at 17:38

Can't help with the clutch height but I remeber the symptons because I was a bit dumb founded.
I could literally "drop the clutch" and the wheels would "chirp" however when I was cruising at 80+kmph. if I punch the accelerator the revs rised then dropped back down a bit as the speed increased. It was sort of like driving an auto.
I would have thought that when dropping the clutch it would have slipped but apparently not.
I have since sold the jack so I don't know how it is going, it was plagued with the dreaded starting problem and to fix it I got a prado.
Anyway from memory I put about 40 to 50k on the clock with the new clutch and no issues at all.
Give them guys a call and let them know you have the 4JX1 (engine model number?) jackaroo and they'll know about it.
Tim

FollowupID: 364333

Reply By: Gronk - Monday, Apr 18, 2005 at 21:32

Monday, Apr 18, 2005 at 21:32

Replaced the clutch in my 98 jack t/d 3 months ago at 115,000k's. The flywheel was still brand new looking as was the clutch and pressure plate(was slipping in 4
th under hard exceleration). Sent the clutch and pressure plate to specialised brake and clutch in st marys ,Sydney(apparantly do a lot of race clutchs).They found the pressure plate down on pressure so they rebuilt it with 20% more clamping pressure and the clutch plate was only half worn but they put a new lining on(better material). All up cost(no labour) $750. Time for a dealer to do should only be about 4-5 hrs ($75 x 5=$375) Flywheels are a bit like brake discs ie. If there wearing even and smooth they shouldn't need attention

AnswerID: 107299

Reply By: Member - Darryl - Monday, Apr 18, 2005 at 23:10

Monday, Apr 18, 2005 at 23:10

Yackaroo,for your info
From the iszusu sevice manual ubs 2000 model
1)loosen clutch pedal adjusting bolt so there is enough gap between pedal and push rod (not much room for your hand)
2)loosen pushrod locking nut.Turn push rod by hand to adjust and set clutch pedal height 4jx1 231mm ---241mm from floor of vehicle measure from behind pedal
3)Tighten the pushrod locknut
4)Turn the adjusting bolt until it just touches the cluch pedal
5)now back the adjusting bolt out 0.5mm -- 1.5mm (feeler gauges)
6)after you have got step 5 right ,check to see how much free play you have,should be between 5 --- 15mm
7)clutch pedal engagement hieght should be approx 300mm from when you release you foot from the floor.

By having all the specs right you should be now able to diagnose a problem if there is one,a bit hard without pictures but a good mechanic should be able to adjust with those measurements
I bought mine at 40000km and was never happy with clutch pedal hieght etc,adjusted to specs and is a lot better.

Hope this helps

AnswerID: 107315

Follow Up By: Member - Darryl - Monday, Apr 18, 2005 at 23:40

Monday, Apr 18, 2005 at 23:40

sorry( step 7) should be 30mm when releasing pedal

Darryl

FollowupID: 364269

Follow Up By: yackaroo - Friday, Apr 22, 2005 at 09:11

Friday, Apr 22, 2005 at 09:11

darryl,
Made adjustments as suggested and clutch feels MUCH better.. although i think it still needs replacing. thanks heaps!! where did you get the manual from?

FollowupID: 364660