Damaged GU steering damper
Submitted: Monday, May 02, 2005 at 08:53
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JamieMac
Does anyone know if the standard damper is a twin tube/wall design?
Ran over a lose log disguised as a pile of dirt whilst getting some mulch at the 'right price' from a local
clearing operation. Managed to stop backing up just before it damaged the back of the radiator and associated hoses (they really are not as
well protected as they were on my old GQ). Fortunately all it did was put a reasonable ding in the small/cylinder end of the steering damper.
Did not notice the damage until after I crawled under the car at
home as there was no indication whilst I was driving. Tried to get it off but I need one of those tie rod breaker thingoes, which I did not. So I got my daughter to swing the wheel full through arc whilst I was underneath feeling and listening for terminal noises, to my surprise there was nothing. It is reasonably small diameter so I guessed it was a single tube item but maybe not.
I figure either it broke neatly internaly (a safer outcome than it freezing the steering I suppose) or it is still working pretty much as advertised. I will pull it off once I get a tie rod thingamebob but thought you lot might know the answer in advance.
Cheers
JamieMac
Reply By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Monday, May 02, 2005 at 11:33
Monday, May 02, 2005 at 11:33
Jamie,
Not sure about the construction type of the damper, but I have removed
mine without any special tools. I've replaced
mine with a 4-Ways Return To Centre type damper.
After you remove the nuts of the damper, you need to use a hammer to hit the END of the damper (not the threaded end of the bolt) whilst at the same time using a large screwdriver or length of steel pipe etc to lever the damper against the pull of the bolt. The shaft is slightly tapered and once you manage to break the seal, it just falls out.
Good luck
Roachie
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Follow Up By: JamieMac - Monday, May 02, 2005 at 12:02
Monday, May 02, 2005 at 12:02
Thanks for the info Roachie, will give your suggestion of belting the side a go tonight. Might save me another trip into town to buy another tool.
Tried to no avail at hitting the end of the threaded stud (with
the nut losely on so to clean the damaged thread). The old engineering adage 'if in doubt get a bigger hammer' did not pay off this time!
Jamie Mac
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Follow Up By: muzzimbidgie - Monday, May 02, 2005 at 12:55
Monday, May 02, 2005 at 12:55
Same here. I ended up going to the local mechanic. I belted
mine so hard with a gympie hammer and block of wood, I lost 2 kilo's and felt like I'd been in a fight, but couldn't get it to budge.
Replaced it with a H/D jobbie.
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Follow Up By: Member - Roachie (SA) - Monday, May 02, 2005 at 14:12
Monday, May 02, 2005 at 14:12
Yeh, I know how bloody hard it is to get the thing to budge. I tried to be all nice to start with and even used a rubber hammer at first. I also tried belting the threaed end with
the nut sitting flush with end of the thread so that the blows from the hammer were being shared by the bolt +
the nut.....no good; waste of time!!!
A bigger hammer is what you need; a short-handled 4lb mash hammer is good. Apply pressure with the bar against the steering linkage and belt the bejeezus on the end of the damper. It won't happen over night; but it will happen....hahahaa
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Follow Up By: JamieMac - Tuesday, May 03, 2005 at 08:38
Tuesday, May 03, 2005 at 08:38
Roachie and all other interested and aabout to be amused aparties,
Got it off after a bit of a fight and I came out second best! Tried a crow bar to pry it apart at one end whilst hitting the side/end with a hammer. Worked
well after a few blows but I ended up ith a fat lip when the crow bar came crashing down on me at one point. Eventually a G Clamp to put the pressure on was a better option and out popped one end.
On the other end the G Clamp would not fit so I was extremely careful with the crow bar this time. End result - the crow bar stayed firmly in my hand whilst the whole sterering damper freed itself and came sailing down onto my forehead! Luckily I was laying under the car in restricted space so I could not attempt to stop the damper with my other hand, it was still holding the hammer. Who knows what the end result of trying to intercept the damper with that would have been.
So I write this with a fat lip, bruised forehead,not to mention my ego. The damper must be a twin tube design as it works perfectly
well despite its indentation. So it went straight back on and I will fight another day to replace it!!
Cheers
JamieMac
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