changing pinion oil seal and bearings on HZJ75
Submitted: Monday, May 30, 2005 at 17:04
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Brian Bentley
Hi,
I have a slight oil leak on my back universal joint and not sure if some
tools to fix it are necessary for me to buy.
I had a look in the workshop manual for my 1994 1HZ landcruiser ute and it says you need a special tool to remove oil seal, a special tool to remove the bearings and a special tool to hold pinion flange to remove retaining nut.
Since this might be the only time this will ever happen to me, i do not want to start spending hundreds on
tools i will only need once.
I do not need a tool to hold the flange because you just leave the vehicle on the ground and the back wheels wont spin as you turn
the nut, but is there anything else that I could use to remove the oil seal and bearings?
Reply By: Rod W - Monday, May 30, 2005 at 17:26
Monday, May 30, 2005 at 17:26
As much as I'm all for doing it yourself, I learn't the hard and expensive way with this one.
It probably has a collapsible spacer in there? Yes/No. If yes then take it to the experts and have the job done properly the first time.
AnswerID:
113588
Follow Up By: 80scruiser - Monday, May 30, 2005 at 20:26
Monday, May 30, 2005 at 20:26
I agree Rod.
Do your self a favour and remove the tail shaft then try and do the pinion flange up. If it starts to do up it has a collapsible spacer so recommend to take it to somebody who knows what they are doing. You can do it in the car. If you can't do it up it doesn't have the collapsible spacer so just undo the flange, remove seal with a large screw driver or pry bar and then install the new seal. refit flange and tail shaft.
FollowupID:
369709
Reply By: Peter 2 - Monday, May 30, 2005 at 21:12
Monday, May 30, 2005 at 21:12
You will need a tool to hold the pinion flange while undoing
the nut as there is too much flex between the flange through the diff and out to the tyres on the ground.
Easy to make, get about a metre of heavy 50 x50 x 6 mm angle iron, drill two holes to match the tailshaft to pinion bolt holes then cut a V between them big enough to clear the socket when it is fitted to the pinion nut. Bolt the angle to the pinion flange and either lever against the ground or the chassis rail.
They do have a collapsable spacer behind the pinion flange and to ensure you don't do it any tighter than it was before removal mark the pinion shaft, flange and nut so that they can be reinstalled at exactly the same spot and with the same preload.
I've done it heaps of times in the bush and never had a failure from overtightening. You shouldn't tighten old bearings to new specs anyway.
there is a pic of the 'special tool' in my picture gallery
AnswerID:
113636
Follow Up By: Brian Bentley - Tuesday, May 31, 2005 at 16:03
Tuesday, May 31, 2005 at 16:03
So i should buy new bearings as well as the oil seal. Do i still need to buy the special
tools to remove the bearings and oil seal?
FollowupID:
369818
Reply By: Peter 2 - Wednesday, Jun 01, 2005 at 17:50
Wednesday, Jun 01, 2005 at 17:50
No not unless it sounds like a Jumbo jet at takeoff when you back off on the throttle.
Replacing diff bearings is not a handyman/
home type job, proper preloads and backlash need to be set with a dial gauge by someone who KNOWS what they are doing.
I've replaced the seal quite a few times in mine and others trucks over the years using this method without any probs.
You WILL bugger the pinion bearing if you tighten
the nut past the point that it was done up to previously, that is why you mark everything before dissassembly.
AnswerID:
113935