Rodeo wheel nuts

Submitted: Sunday, Jun 12, 2005 at 00:13
ThreadID: 23789 Views:3841 Replies:7 FollowUps:3
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I seem to be having a problem with wheel studs stripping when done up in tyre shops. My Rodes is a 1994. The wheel studs and nuts now require replacement, wheel nuts are $20 each. Has anyone else had this problem and is there a alternative source rather than genuine wheel nuts
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Reply By: D-Jack - Sunday, Jun 12, 2005 at 00:25

Sunday, Jun 12, 2005 at 00:25
I seem to recall someone saying something about my Jackaroo that the studs threads are easy to strip if done up too tightly. Advised me to always make sure they are done up with a torque wrench to the advised nms. This may be the problem if the tyre shops are stripping the threads. Maybe go and ask them what torque setting they tightened it to and then if they dunno just to it by hand then suggest to them they did it up too tight and ask for compensation. They are wheel experts and should know how tight each model should be tightened to.
If you don't have the appropriate nm settings let me know and I will dig them up for you in my service manuals (I would think that the Jacks use the same as Rodeos)

D-Jack

AnswerID: 115399

Reply By: diver2 - Sunday, Jun 12, 2005 at 00:42

Sunday, Jun 12, 2005 at 00:42
Apparently its a common problem with rodeos so the tyre shop does not see it as there problem. It happens over a period of time with the threads getting i assume stretched as they become difficult to undo and do up and eventually strip when they see that rattle gun for the last time. The best thing is to do them up by hand or find a sophisticated tyre shop but they all seem to like doing up wheel nuts bloody tight no matter what vehicle. So it requires $120 worth of nuts per wheel plus studs and I was looking for a alternative. Compensation would be good but I dont think that course will be rewarding
AnswerID: 115402

Reply By: Member - RockyOne - Sunday, Jun 12, 2005 at 12:57

Sunday, Jun 12, 2005 at 12:57
Remember the old "welded thread"trick..I was once getting my rig ready for the trip from Emerald to Emu Creek,NSW.Undid and re-tightened all wheels fitted by tyre fitter(air tool)..One was "welded" up and had to break it to remove..Removed drum & fitted new stud..Good mechanic said it is because of one dry steel against another causes galling (welded) and is common,irrespective of make..Answer! Light coat of grease on stud or,better still,motorcycle spray chain lube)thread then wipe most off (if too much grease remains,you will have a hydraulic effect on those fool blind wheel nuts (look nice?) and no matter how hard you push the wheel wrench,you will only increase the pressure in the blind nut cavity,with no real effect on the wheel/flanfe/nut mating surfaces..Some of you "boaties" & Harley folk,will have been caught fitting a 316 stainless steel nylon lock nut to a 316 stainless bolt..It sure "locks up"..Forever!..Fit a 304 grade to a 316..No problem (Use Lanolin™ to solve problem ?)..Helps? RockyOne
AnswerID: 115440

Reply By: Shaker - Sunday, Jun 12, 2005 at 14:24

Sunday, Jun 12, 2005 at 14:24
Once, before picking a vehicle from a tyre service, I handed him the original wheel spanner & asked him to undo a wheel nut, any nut ....... he couldn't!

This common over-tightening practise is not only annoying, but in some cases very dangerous!
AnswerID: 115449

Reply By: Member - Bradley- Sunday, Jun 12, 2005 at 23:32

Sunday, Jun 12, 2005 at 23:32
yep, all rodeos / jackaroos have studs susceptable to over tensioning and stretching, and as with any threaded fastener driven at speed 'dry' they will pick up metal on the threads.

Make sure you coat all the studs with a nickel based anti sieze compound and torque by hand to 80 foot pound, never a problem.

As for the ones already buggered, sorry champ you'll have to pay to replace with genuine.
AnswerID: 115501

Reply By: cmilton54 - Monday, Jun 13, 2005 at 16:18

Monday, Jun 13, 2005 at 16:18
Tyre shops get blamed all the time for overtight wheelnuts. Most of the time it is mechanics who take off wheels during service that overtighten. Rodeo studs and nuts are a problem more than others, i think the studs and nuts may be to close to same tenstile strenght. ALL nuts and studs should be done DRY no lube as wheel tension is based on a dry torque NOT wet. All places SHOULD use hand torque spanners
Cheers
Charlie
AnswerID: 115551

Reply By: guzzi - Tuesday, Jun 14, 2005 at 10:35

Tuesday, Jun 14, 2005 at 10:35
I had the same problem with my 94 rodeo.
I'm afaid the only answer is to replace the studs and nuts.
REPCO have the required nuts and studs at approx 1/2 holdens theivery.
Sorry I dont remember the part numbers.
The rears are reasonably easy, knock the rears out with a large hammer and pull the new ones in with a suitable spacer and nut.
The fronts are a bit more complicated as you will need to remove the flange the studs are mounted on from the front discs, this is because of the lenght of the studs and the spceing between the flange and disc. At this point a very good quality high power rattle gun WILL be required to remove the 6 large bolts holding the flange to the disc, nothing else shifted mine, impact drivers and large hammers or 6 ft extensions and my 100kg hanging off the other end.
After you get the flange off repeat process as per the rears.
Clean up the bolts holding the flange to the disc, apply some loctite or similar nickle antisieze, refit and retorque them, sorry I dont remember the torque it was something like 80 to 100 ftlbs, but double check.
Put anti seize on the threads of your new studs before you put the nuts on.
start the nuts by hand and torque to specification.
Beware knuckle dragging tyre changers with a rattle gun addiction.
Good luck
AnswerID: 115667

Follow Up By: diver2 - Tuesday, Jun 14, 2005 at 20:51

Tuesday, Jun 14, 2005 at 20:51
Thanks for the info,I am pleased the rear studs are easy to do. I thought the axel would have to be removed and probably brake shoes and backing plate. Knocking out the rear studs and pulling them back through withn a spacer sounds a good idea. Thanks again
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FollowupID: 371371

Follow Up By: diver2 - Wednesday, Jun 15, 2005 at 17:54

Wednesday, Jun 15, 2005 at 17:54
Yep, a pleasant surprise, stud & nut sets are available from repco for $4.50 compared with $20 for the genuine wheel nuts alone
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FollowupID: 371468

Follow Up By: Member - Collyn R (WA) - Sunday, Jun 19, 2005 at 12:02

Sunday, Jun 19, 2005 at 12:02
Rattle guns are an absolute menace! Recently part way down the Tanami I came across an Isuzi motorhome (that really should not have been there) with a flat tyre.

A two metre breaker bar pulled by two men would not shift the wheel nuts. I finally did it by pulling the top of the breaker bar with the OKA's 12,000 lb winch. The nuts finally loosened with a bang like a .303 a metre away.

I never EVER let a tyre fitter do the final tightening of wheel nuts. I always do it myself using lightly greased threads and a torque wrench.

This is actually a very intereresting subject - if interested in why things work loose (and its probably not why you think they do) have a look at my article of the same name on my website.
Collyn Rivers
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FollowupID: 371875

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