Inverting balljoints. D.I.Y
Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 02, 2005 at 16:43
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Dan
have read a few posts on inverting upper balljoints after fitting bigger torsion bars.
Can someone run me throu the process, or explain exactly how it works?
I'm fitting new torsion bars to my Rodeo and was wondering if i should do it. preferably D.I.Y
thanks
Dan
Reply By: Willb - Tuesday, Aug 02, 2005 at 16:50
Tuesday, Aug 02, 2005 at 16:50
Hi Dan, give this site a glander.
link text
Will
AnswerID:
123372
Reply By: Member - Crazie (VIC) - Tuesday, Aug 02, 2005 at 16:53
Tuesday, Aug 02, 2005 at 16:53
Hi Dan
Read the two
forum treads attached
http://
forum.australia4wd.com/index.php?showtopic=1083
http://
forum.australia4wd.com/index.php?showtopic=45
AnswerID:
123374
Reply By: Member - Nick (TAS) - Tuesday, Aug 02, 2005 at 19:24
Tuesday, Aug 02, 2005 at 19:24
I dont know if this will work on a Rodeo but I on my 4 Runner I fitted a ball joint spacer,a one inch alloy spacer between the ball joint and upper control arm.I'll try and find a link if you like.
AnswerID:
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Reply By: Member - Toonfish - Tuesday, Aug 02, 2005 at 20:51
Tuesday, Aug 02, 2005 at 20:51
im not sure its recommended?
ask nic or anyone from the
forum get together from
big desert this year
lol
AnswerID:
123443
Reply By: Leroy - Tuesday, Aug 02, 2005 at 21:51
Tuesday, Aug 02, 2005 at 21:51
Hi Dan,
You don't actually invert the ball joint. The upper ball joint is mounted through the uppper control arm. You can remove it and mount it under the upper control arm. You can also place a spacer between the ball joint and the control arm. What this does is give you the ability to adjust your camber when you wind up your torsion bars for more lift. I personally have don't this and don't really recomend it. In the end I broke cv joints and always had them 'clicking' a full lock. I would recomend winding up the torsion bars a little say 30mm or this in conjuction with the 'ball joint flip' as it's commonly called but you wouldn't need the spacer for such a mild lift. Would n't worry about the torsion bars unless you have a steel bar and winch. Would consider better shocks though.
Leroy
AnswerID:
123459
Follow Up By: Dan - Wednesday, Aug 03, 2005 at 14:11
Wednesday, Aug 03, 2005 at 14:11
Leroy, i'v just had the new 'West Coast
Suspension' heavy duty torsion bars and shocks fitted, and still dont have a great deal of clearence, im thinking of winding them up more, but would this mean my camber would be out? if so would you then recomend the ball joint flip?
The guy who fitted them for me said he didn't wind them up all that much. cheers
FollowupID:
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Follow Up By: guzzi - Wednesday, Aug 03, 2005 at 17:34
Wednesday, Aug 03, 2005 at 17:34
with a 30 to 40 mm lift just "flipping" the ball joint will be sufficient to keep your wheel alignment in spec.
Putting a spacer in will allow you to crank your bars higher, but it does have a downside.
Downward wheel travel is reduced as you're now very close to the bump stop, CV angles are now getting quite steep and CV and CV boot wear now will be a problem.
Boots are easy enough to change but it is a PITA.
While you're changeing the boots on your CV's and repacking them with clean grease you'll notice that the whole shooting match is held together by a 1.5mm thick ring clip, the higher the bars are cranked the greater the load on this massive bit of accountant engineering. When this fails things fall apart. Limit your lift to 30 to 40 mm and you minimise this.
Cranking your bars right up and cutting the bump stops almosts guaranties CV failure.
have a look on planet isuzu and the outer limits (gmh/isuzu) sites and do a search heaps of relevant info there.
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