Rear Storage Problems

Having made my own _Affordable_Storage_Drawers.aspx somehow I have been coerced into making Gadgets. They are half constructed in my garage as I type and will be in the back of the Navara on my web page next week.

Put the Engel on top (on a tilting fridge slide for easier access) and put a cage around to stop the avalanche problem.

More on the tilting fridge slide on my site.


Pick of cage - I have to make 2 next week - on CJ 4wds fridge slide site - see 2nd pic in animation.

Dave
Dave

If your redesigning it for the 10th time, you still dont know what you want?

I have recently made a drawer system for the back of my 80 series Cruiser that I incorporated the 60L Engel into. The system has a drawer on the left hand side about 300mm high, and the Engel on the right hand side with a higher floor covering it. This still allows golf clubs etc to be carried on the left hand side. This system allows the engel to be accessed at any time even if the car is fully packed, and with the camp table and tent stored on the left hand side the whole level ends up flat again. I have also included a 12v computer fan over top of the engel to stop hot air building up around it. After putting up with various ideas since getting the car, I am spewing that I procrastinated for so long and didnt do it much earlier. I can send pictures if you are interested (just dont know how to do them on here....)

I'm looking at housing the fridge by removing one rear seat in our new (five seat) Nissan Patrol - possibly via a slide out and arranginhg a cold feed from the air con.

We do not need that seat otherwise. I've seen this done originally in the back of a big 2WD Mercedes that we came across in the most improble outback places a few years back.

Has anyone else tried this please?
Collyn Rivers

Hi Matt,

I built my first storgae system for my 80 series and then another for my GU. On the 80 series it had basically two large _Affordable_Storage_Drawers.aspx and an engels slide on top of one of the _Affordable_Storage_Drawers.aspx. I found the _Affordable_Storage_Drawers.aspx held more than enough but that the fridge was too high for comfort.

On my GU set, I only built one draw and lowered the fridge slide to floor level. I find this MUCH better, but the single draw means I cannot carry as much stuff all the time (probably a good idea!). I also incorporated a 60L water tank at the back, but this means the draw is 300mm shorter than it otherwise could have been. Click on my ric pic below to see a photo of it.

I here what you say about items sliding into the fridge space when accessing the engels. I pack my stuff in such a way that this has never been an issue, just takes a small amount of forethought. Another advantage of the recessed fridge slide is that small items do not roll around too far in general daily use ie. shopping etc in the back. I am more than happy with my current design, it suits me and my needs perfectly and I would build to the same design again if I was replacing it.

Cheers

Captain

Hi Matt
Just a few ideas
1-I built my _Affordable_Storage_Drawers.aspx on legs about 50mm high and bolted it to the original tie down points the gap underneath allows me to store a picnic table slid in under -for smoko etc just slide the table half out gives somewhere to get lunch ready etc
2-the fridge is in a raised section on one side with a top over it -stops things falling in behind the fridge with two _Affordable_Storage_Drawers.aspx 150mm deep next to the fridgeone on top of the other-makes getting at small items easy without having to unpack and leaves plenty of storage on top
3- my _Affordable_Storage_Drawers.aspx fit between the wheel arches and is easily removed-this leaves storage at both sides where you can store shairs etc
Regards Kev

Thanks everyone for the Ideas/Suggestions I’ll think about it a little more and make a decision very soon Once again cheers.

Matt

Matt, forget building it out of wood if you intend to go offroad. Even made out of marine ply they always fall apart over time.
On my 4th boxing system I have now settled on a steel frame of 15mm box & angle iron. The fridge is mounted on quality extendable slides at floor level to allow easy access with 2 Aluminium _Affordable_Storage_Drawers.aspx on top of each other on the opposite side. I ran mine on laminex slides but would spend the extra money next time & use more extendable slides. The _Affordable_Storage_Drawers.aspx are lined with a thin carpet to stop rattles. A 10mm marine ply false floor covered in waterproof carpet is fitted into the top. Sides & rear of the box are weldmesh to allow fridge ventilation & keep the weight down. Access to the rear of the box in the triangular space left over is by folding the rear seats down. There is room to fit 3 water jerrycans between the wheel arches which keeps the weight forward & low. The whole unit is attached to the car by brackets that slide underneath the 3rd row seat mounting points then 2 turn buckles onto the cargo tie down rings. The fridge is secured using 2 friction straps. The cargo barrier is half size & bolted onto the top of the box system. All up it takes me 15 minutes to remove the whole thing as there are only 4 bolts & 2 turn buckles in total. If I choose to leave it in for a while there is still space on top of the false floor for a pram or set of golf clubs or alternativlely remove the 2 _Affordable_Storage_Drawers.aspx & store larger items in there. As the false floor does not go right accross the car to the windows like many permanent units, the space over the wheel arches can be accessed from above & is ideal for sleeping mats & bags. I use plastic storage crates on top that can be secured to the weldmesh sides & cargo barrier.
5 years old, no rattles & still working reliably.
Cheers Craig.................

I'd love to put these Taj Mahal's you guys are building on a set of scales to see just how much extra weight you're putting in the back of your trucks and that's without even putting any of your belongings in there yet.
In my opinion, a light steel frame (stainless steel for me :-) )and a light 6mm thick plywood false floor so your tent, table and chairs can be mounted underneath your fridge on top and removable stackable plastic boxes (with lids) alongside the fridge.
That's what I made for my GQ, I didn't even bother to cover the plywood as I needed the whole unit to be removable. My tilting fridge slide is held in with 2 bolts and 2 clips, the plywood is held in place with 1/4 turn racing dzus fasteners and the frame is held down by 6 bolts on the floor which are easily accessible because the plywood top goes on in less than 60 seconds. The whole unit takes me 12 minutes to install and comes out in less than 10 minutes.
Regards Andrew.

Matt
I can thoroughly recommend the TAFE welding course.

I did it (in Broome) over two years (together with Production Engineering) at Certificate Two level. They taught me arc, TIG and MIG, and also plasma cutting as well as how to use things like big power saws and 9-inch angle grinders competently and safely.

To my surprise I was one of four other women - all artists (or in my case sculptor) - but there were also two men doing the course.

The only downside is that my now owning and using this sort of stuff tends to freak out the more macho local tradesmen!

Maarit (Collyn's wife)

(With four extremely beautiful women (and three under 30) in the class the teacher simply couldn't believe his luck - he went around with a big grin for the entire two years! - Collyn)

Thanks Andrew
Have checked site - most useful. Right now I'm working with stainless steel, but will be looking at working a range of other metals later (mostly big sections) especially if Collyn gives me a plasma cutter for Xmas.

Re the steel - correct name is apparantly Corten - sometimes spelled Cor-ten. If any one else out there knows about welding it (about 14-20 mm plate) I'd appreciate info.
Maarit Rivers