Prodigy Brake Controller
Submitted: Saturday, Aug 06, 2005 at 13:45
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Member - Norm C (QLD)
Any Prodigy owners able to help.
I have installed one of these units in my 4B. All lights and functions seem to indicate normal operation. When I have tried to set it, I find that even at the maximum setting (13) I do not get full braking. The trailer brakes slow me down (from about 40K), but would take a long time to bring me to a stop. I would have thought at the maximum setting the trailer brakes should lock up when I operate the trailer brake manually.
I have checked the voltage at the trailer plug with the manual lever fully on. It is 9 volts. I can not find any reference in the instructions to what it should be, but I'd have thought it should be 12 to 13V on max. At the back of the unit it is 9volts also, so the problem is not voltage drop in the cables. Applying the vehicle brake (press the peddle) gives just 2.5 volts, so it does not sound good.
Took the controller back and the supplier gave me a new one to try. Same problem.
Anyone got any ideas? Is anyone able to measure the voltage at the trailer plug with both the brake pedal and manual trailer brake applied?
Thanks, Norm C
Reply By: Member -Dodger - Saturday, Aug 06, 2005 at 14:28
Saturday, Aug 06, 2005 at 14:28
Read the instructions again and try it with the boost setting of 1, 2, or 3.
if you have already noy done so.
Also make sure that the power supply from the battery is direct through a 20amp circuit breaker.
Usually they are a doddle to connect so your problem must be a simple mistake.
Make sure that the earth from the trailor is a heavy one that has a good connection on the vehicle chasis.
AnswerID:
124073
Follow Up By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Saturday, Aug 06, 2005 at 14:56
Saturday, Aug 06, 2005 at 14:56
Thanks Dodger.
Circuit breaker in place.
Boost makes a bit of a difference, but still won't bring me to a stop (or even close). The trailer is only about 1000KG,
well below tow vehicle weight. Instructions suggest using either no boost, or perhaps boost 1 when necessary. Boost 2 and 3 are more for when trailer is equal to or greater than weight of tow vehicle.
FollowupID:
379032
Reply By: Member - Blue (VIC) - Saturday, Aug 06, 2005 at 15:30
Saturday, Aug 06, 2005 at 15:30
I had the same problem, trailer brakes turned out to be very poorly adjusted. Spent some time under the trailer and finally it all came together... Camper trailer @ 850+kg, locks brakes up set on about 8. Normally set around 7, also find I have to turn it down a notch or two as the trailer hubs and braked take on a bit of heat, especially city driving, as the trailer will lock up at around setting 6.
Good luck
AnswerID:
124077
Follow Up By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Saturday, Aug 06, 2005 at 16:38
Saturday, Aug 06, 2005 at 16:38
Thanks Blue. That was going to be my next step, but as the trailer is brand new, I thought that shouldn't be the problem. Haven't adsusted electric brakes before, but I'll have a look tomorrow.
FollowupID:
379035
Follow Up By: Member - Blue (VIC) - Saturday, Aug 06, 2005 at 16:52
Saturday, Aug 06, 2005 at 16:52
Norm, my trailer was also brand new... It appears that installing brakes doesn't include adjusting them.
Blue
FollowupID:
379037
Reply By: Member -Dodger - Saturday, Aug 06, 2005 at 16:46
Saturday, Aug 06, 2005 at 16:46
Youwill find that the adjusting on elec brakes is the same as any other drum brakes.
Often the dealer does not do a proper delivery check so this could be the prob.
Also adjust the handbrake if fitted.
Then try the whole lot out.
One way is to fill
water containers eg 20ltr drums to similate weight on board trailor and then adjust accordingly that will make life a little easier.
If boost has helped a bit then this should do the trick.
AnswerID:
124088
Reply By: cmilton54 - Saturday, Aug 06, 2005 at 18:49
Saturday, Aug 06, 2005 at 18:49
Norm
Should have min 4mm power wire from controller, best with 5mm. Earth should have same size, make sure good earth on vehicle chassis, not relying ao coupling for earth. Or brake pad adjustment.
Cheers
Charlie
AnswerID:
124108
Reply By: Member - Russell S - Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 08:30
Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 08:30
Problem is likely to be one of those already suggested. I fitted
mine myself, and had no trouble. They are a great unit and I've been very happy, so I hope you sort out the issue.
AnswerID:
124158
Reply By: Member - Banjo The First (SA) - Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 09:27
Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 09:27
My Campomatic has el brakes and a prodigy in the Jack - I usually need to run it around 7 volts - though the braking is ok, it seems not to be anywhere near capable of locking the trailer
wheels. Overall, I expect the trailer to contribute its own braking to the equation, which it probably does - it could never significantly brake the car and trailer together, in my view. I did need to adjust my brakes myself carefully on the Campo - I think they might still be settling in ! Hub heat levels are a gide to how
well the brakes are going it seems - too much and you won't be able to touch them - they should be even in heat too - when new, I had a hot and a cold hub as delivered !
AnswerID:
124170
Reply By: Member - Robyn J (QLD) - Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 20:02
Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 20:02
The output of most brake controllers is in pulse wave form and a voltmeter will give you an inaccurate reading. The output signal can change due to an angle change of the vehicle under braking ie nose dive when braking. Adjust the trailer brakes first then set up the controller.
Cheers
AnswerID:
124213
Reply By: Lyds - Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 22:05
Sunday, Aug 07, 2005 at 22:05
Norm,
Perhaps its a feature of variable braking systems like the Prodigy.
I experienced the same thing. I spoke to my trailer guy and he suggested that you probably don't want the brakes to lock up all the time as you'll just wear the brakes out. So I didn't think any more of it.
However, I noticed the other day when stopping very suddenly (to avoid hitting someone who had no respect for the stopping distances of a 3 tonne GU and a 1 tonne trailer) that the trailer brakes did lock up.
You may want to try some sharper braking to see if it makes a difference.
cheers,
Stuart
AnswerID:
124228
Reply By: Member - Norm C (QLD) - Monday, Aug 08, 2005 at 12:04
Monday, Aug 08, 2005 at 12:04
I adjusted up the brakes on the trailer a bit.
Gave it a good test drive and some hard braking. Drums on trailer are certainly getting hot. Using the scientific 'touch test', they both burn the finger about the same, so adjustment seems to be pretty even.
With Prodigy controller set on about 8, I get good braking. On boost 1 even better.
Only 'problem' remains, no matter what adjustments I make, I can not lock up the trailer brakes. I know you don't want to lock them up during normal use, but the old bushies way of adjusting brakes (adjust up till they lock up under heavy braking, then back off a bit), still seems pretty valid.
The fact that I can not lock them up leaves me thinking I may not be getting full braking power.
Apart from this, they work
well. Braking distance is good and I don't get the feeling of being pushed along by the trailer when braking.
Guess I'll have to accept my own advice (in signature line) and be happy with what I've got.
Thanks for your help, everyone who responded.
AnswerID:
124262
Follow Up By: Member - Robyn J (QLD) - Monday, Aug 08, 2005 at 17:20
Monday, Aug 08, 2005 at 17:20
Just one more thing you can check. Make sure your trailer plug wiring is large enough. Some people use very thin wire in their 7core cable. Thin wire ok for trailer lights but not electric brakes in particular the earth wire on the trailer plug. Earth wire should be of a bigger size than the other cables. Earth wire carrying current from brake lights, trafficators and brakes etc. Just a thought
Cheers
FollowupID:
379233