Latest Solar Field Test.
Submitted: Tuesday, Aug 09, 2005 at 21:22
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Jimbo
We went away on the weekend in
Melbourne (the outskirts at Gembrook).
Arrived Saturday at 1 pm. Set up and put the panel out in a bit of sun. Put it away at about 6pm. Sunday morning after running the 80L fridge all night, the batt was showing 12.43 volts: about 80% charged.
After that, Sunday, we did a few short drives to collect wood and didn't bother connecting the panel again as it was raining. Gave the car an idle for 15 min Monday morning as the batt was showing 12.38 (probably didn't need it but I like to look after my aux batt).
The moral is, IMO, if it's too cold to generate power from a panel, the fridge isn't drawing much power and you don't need solar top up.
My panel has worked extremely
well in hot weather, and I don't think I need it in the cold, although it still puts power in if there is a bit of sun.
Jim.
Reply By: Member - Geoff M (Newcastle) - Tuesday, Aug 09, 2005 at 23:14
Tuesday, Aug 09, 2005 at 23:14
Jim,
From memory your battery is a 100A/hr AGM. Is that correct?
Geoff.
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Follow Up By: Jimbo - Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 07:19
Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 07:19
That's right Geoff
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Reply By: Rosco - Bris. - Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 06:20
Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 06:20
That's interesting Jimbo
I'm sure I read somewhere that panels actually perform better in sunny cold weather than sunny hot.
Cheers cob
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Follow Up By: Jimbo - Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 07:23
Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 07:23
Depends on the panel Rosco.
What you have said is true of a polycrystalline panel, they lose efficiency over 25C.
Mine is an amorphous panel and they love the heat.
Cheers,
Jim.
FollowupID:
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Reply By: Member - Nobby - Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 08:34
Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 08:34
We went away for 8 days last week and set up the solar panels on arrival. We have 2 x 80w and they charge the batteries (2 x 105amp DC ) on the CT. Not once during the trip did the Batteries get under 12.8amp on the Volt meter. They were running a 60litre Evacool, 18litre Waeco and assorted lights. Fairly happy to say the least.
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 13:46
Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 13:46
Nobby
what do your batteries register:
(A) when the fridge is running and the Solar system is DIS-conected?
(B) When the fridge is running and the Solar system IS connected?
May I suggest you would have to test at the same/similar time to show the true battery voltage, because the fridge would be using some power from the batteries, ie; no value checking one at start of fridge cycle and the other at end of fridge cycle.
Best time would be towards the end of the fridge cycle.
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Reply By: Shane (QLD) - Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 09:30
Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 09:30
Jimbo,
What's up with the Terracan
Forum ?
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Redback - Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 10:01
Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 10:01
Pete's on to it should be up again soon.
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Follow Up By: Jimbo - Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 18:54
Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 18:54
It's all better now.
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Reply By: Member - Collyn R (WA) - Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 12:14
Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 12:14
Just a few comments.
All solar modules convert light energy not heat energy.
All except amorphous modules lose about 0.5% output for every degree C over a CELL temperature of 25 degrees C. This is generally misunderstood however as being over 25 degrees ambient. The 25 degrees C cell temperature actually corresponds to about 5 degrees C ambient. (The makers do spell this out, but in techo-gabble, on the panel at the rear of the module).
All such modules have therefore lost about 10% of their output at 25 degrees C ambient and a lot more where I live in the
Kimberley.
There is also a power matching loss that results in a further typical loss of 15-20%.
In practice a typical 120-watt module produces about 89 watts in most
places. Most makers claim a typical 57-59 watts for their '80-watt' modules. In my experience this is accurate.
Amorphous modules (of which there are about six makers - of which the best-known is Uni-Solar) gain output very slightly as temperature rises.
Up here, my 28 by 64-watt Uni Solars produce much the same as my 80-watt Solarex once over 35 degrees C. The downside is that they are over twice the area per watt of other modules. That's why I use Uni-Solar for our big home system and others on my OKA.
If you want to know more about solar there's heaps on my website. Address as above except replace collyn@ by www.
Collyn Rivers
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Jimbo - Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 19:01
Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 19:01
Thanks for your input Collyn,
As ever, a wealth of knowledge.
Cheers,
Jim.
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Follow Up By: Jimbo - Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 19:20
Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 19:20
Collyn,
A query.
My understanding is that in partial shade or overcast conditions a poly panel stops dead, whereas an amorphous panel still gives some output. Therefore if you forget to move your poly panel and 10% of it is shaded it stops, whereas the amorphous panel in the same circumstances will produce 90% of its output.
How correct is this?
Thanks again for your advice.
Cheers,
Jim.
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379549
Reply By: Member - Collyn R (WA) - Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 19:26
Wednesday, Aug 10, 2005 at 19:26
Jim
Pretty much spot on.
Most modules lose 50% or more output if shaded by 5%-7% of their surface - and close to all of it if shaded by more than 30-40%.
By contrast an amorphous module loses output in proportion to about 10-20% more than the area shaded. Thus 10% shading of a 64 watt module is likely to reduce output by about 11%-12%.
Collyn Rivers
AnswerID:
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Follow Up By: Mainey (WA) - Thursday, Aug 11, 2005 at 12:13
Thursday, Aug 11, 2005 at 12:13
In partial overcast conditions my Solarex Poly panel gives out more in the "fluffy white cloudy" conditions than with direct sunlite, by that I mean you can actually watch the Solar regs LCD screen which shows the amount of Amps being produced at the panel, and watch the Amp numbers change when the clouds hide and then show the sun again.
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Reply By: Member - Collyn R (WA) - Thursday, Aug 11, 2005 at 20:13
Thursday, Aug 11, 2005 at 20:13
Mainey
This is a common effect and happens often where I live (about 400 metres from the Indian Ocean north of
Broome. It is particularly common when the cloud is low, white and scattered - and even more so close to sea - or lightish colour ground.
What is happening is that the sunlight is being reflected back from the earth's surface and bounced down again from the clouds. The max occurs when the sun shines through a gap in the clouds.
It is common for my system (now 32 by 64-watt modules) to put out close to 40 amps into the 48-volt system when this happens - this is about 25% over the theoretical maximum.
Collyn Rivers
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Follow Up By: Jimbo - Thursday, Aug 11, 2005 at 20:39
Thursday, Aug 11, 2005 at 20:39
So Collyn,
Are you saying am amorphous panel can put out more than its stated capacity in certain conditions?
Mine certainly seems to produce more power than the theoretical input versus the theoretical drain to run the fridge and lights.
It consistently holds its own when it mathematically shouldn't.
This is why I have posted practical results. I can only tell of what happens, not what the theory should be.
Cheers,
Jim.
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Reply By: Member - Collyn R (WA) - Friday, Aug 12, 2005 at 09:33
Friday, Aug 12, 2005 at 09:33
Jimbo - all modules behave as I described above (ie when light is reflected to and from the earth's surface and low white clouds).
But all amorphous (only) modules also have another characteristic that increases output - that I'll get to in a moment.
Firstly - no modules exceed their 'theoretical limit' as such. What they may exceed is what the makers claim for them.
Their output is proportional to the intensity of light. Their claimed output is measured at a high but closely defined light level (and also defioned atospheric losses). If that level is exceeded (via reflected light) thent the output will increase - - sometimes, but usually only for a short time, to way beyond the maker's claims.
That's what happens if the light gets bounced back again on to the modules.
In other words the modules do as predicted theoretically.
Amorphous modules have another characteristic (that results in vast confusions around campfires!) is that amorphous modules produce 10-15% more output (than claimed in the test specs) for their first few months. They then gradually drop back to the claimed test levels.
Depending on what you are selling (or which side of the river you are shouting from!) this effect causes one set of people to claim that Uni-Solar etc produce more than claimed - and another lot to claim they lose output over time.
Both arguments are thus true - and both substantially irrelevant!
Uni-Solar are excellent where you have ample space and temperature is commonly 30 degrees C plus, and/or partial shade performance is vital. Their big drawback in applications where space is limited is that they are twice the area of recent mono- and poly-crystaline modules for the same wattage output in the same conditions)
In my view, mono/poly-crystalline modules are an all round better bet where compact size is important and/or where average tempearture is coolish. - The colder it is the better they work.
Trust this helps (all this stuff is in my books!)
Collyn Rivers
AnswerID:
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