Jackaroo brakes

ol coot,

Without much to go on, does yours have ABS? if so have you knocked the sensor about on the inside of the wheel, maybe the car thinks the wheel is skidding and lets that wheel go without brakes (happened on my 100 series)
Also had something similar happen with my GU after a brake fluid flush, turned out that there was air in the lines but do you think we could get it out. Took a lot of fluid and three mechanics to get it right. For some reason my vehicle needs manual bleed when this job is done, those pump bleeders the mechanics have was leaving air in my lines??? (still don't know why)
Try clamping one line at each wheel at a time to see if you can narrow down where the lack of brake feel is coming from and go from there.
Trust your senses and keep at it as all three mechanics told me there was nothing wrong with my brakes on the GU until the 3rd one felt the brakes after he fixed it.

Regards Trevor.

If the pedal was good before you bled it try bleeding it again.
As stated before, clamp off all wheels bar one and then open the bleed nipple of the one that isn't clamped. Then get somebody to hit the brake pedal hard and hold it to the floor while you do up the bleeder. The hard hit may get an air lock moving enough. Do this on all 4 calipers and see how you go.

The Jackaroo needs to have the engine running when the brakes are bled.

Please don't laugh - that's what it clearly states in the Miller manual - not doing so risks damage to the booster diaphragm.

If you have ABS, you also have to remove the ABS fuse/solenoid otherwise you will never get the air out and you could damage the ABS "thingy" - I wouldn't like to have to buy one of those.

All mechanics should be aware of the ABS fuse/solenoid, bit only one in 100 would know about needing to have the engine running to avoid possible booster damage.

I renewed the fluid in my Monterey brakes this way, in the correct sequence, and had no problem afterwards.

Cheers,

Gerhard

Coot..is the pedal spongy after you bled the system?? I doubt it, you dont refer to a spongy pedal just what seems like loss of stopping power.

Is the Jack a Monterey with ABS?

Does the pedal drop about an inch when you start the car with foot already on the pedal firmly? If yes, the booster is fine, otherwise there is your problem and I would then kink the booster hose and see if there is a noticeable diff when driving (short and carefully). If there is a big diff, try step one again...just confirm, might be a weak vaccuum pump (diesel), is no difference the your booster is cactus!

If the pedal is nice and hard and the problem of poor stopping most likely is just glazed discs and pads. If you are not hard on your brakes then the Isuzu pads last FOREVER!!! (I did over 250 000km towing a 750kg camper without brakes around Aust and still had 4 mm of pad left and before you say mine is smaller than a jack....weighbridge weight empty 1945kg then add gear and then add trailer!)
Have a look through the wheel and if the discs are all nice and silky smooth (very polished) you might just need a skim (if the brakes are that bad) otherwise just put up with it, adjust your braking slighlty and get a front brake relign when you need new pads.

Matt.