Building a Portable Battery Box

Submitted: Saturday, Aug 27, 2005 at 14:38
ThreadID: 25917 Views:6882 Replies:7 FollowUps:14
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Hi all,
I am building a battery box to run a WAECO 45 ltr Fridge that can be used away from the vehicle. I have 3 power outlets in the back of the Cruiser to run the fridge, thermo cooler & the to charge the battery box. The question is, can the battery be charged from the rear socket without any drama provided it is properly vented & would I need a diode of some sort to stop the power from the battery box going back into the system when the vehicle is switched off & the other appliances are running. Any help from a Leccie would be appreciated.
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Reply By: Jimbo - Saturday, Aug 27, 2005 at 14:50

Saturday, Aug 27, 2005 at 14:50
Shane,

Yes you can charge a battery from a socket but it will be slow. Most of those types of sockets are rated at 10 amps.

I have an in car aux batt. It is an AGM battery (sealed so no chance of gassing). It is cabled back to a Redarc isolator under the bonnet. This is the best way to do it IMO.

Cheers,

Jim.
AnswerID: 127084

Reply By: res.q.guy - Saturday, Aug 27, 2005 at 17:27

Saturday, Aug 27, 2005 at 17:27
Shane

I have a similar setup as Jimbo but charge the battery through an "Arrid Twin Charge" Unit. Which works for me.
Regards
Neil
AnswerID: 127098

Follow Up By: Mike DiD - Sunday, Aug 28, 2005 at 21:08

Sunday, Aug 28, 2005 at 21:08
Neil - how much is the Arrid Twin Charge - there's not much info on their website.
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FollowupID: 381751

Follow Up By: res.q.guy - Monday, Aug 29, 2005 at 08:48

Monday, Aug 29, 2005 at 08:48
Mike DiD
The Arid Twin Charge costs $299 I got mine mail order from "The 12V Shop", in WA, you could try their web site for info. - www.12volt.com.au.
I fitted mine with a decent plug/socket arrangement so I can use it in the car to charge the second battery when using a fridge etc or relocate it to the caravan to charge the caravan batteries.
Regards
Neil
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FollowupID: 381791

Reply By: Chaz - Sunday, Aug 28, 2005 at 09:39

Sunday, Aug 28, 2005 at 09:39
Hi Shane,
I built up a couple of units for myself and a friend using a fibreglass box and a pair of 25 amp/hour sealed lead acid battery’s. It has a Narva Plug for my fridge and two accessory cigarette lighter outlets.
If your rear outlet is switched with accessories, then it will keep your fridge going when you turn your vehicle off. It is completely portable and safe to store in your vehicle.
I keep it in the back of the car so it’s always on charge, and plugged into the second battery so that it’s isolated by the redarc solenoid and it gets charged through a diode, mainly just to drop the voltage a bit as these battery’s don’t like much over 13.5 volts.
Go to this LINK to see my setup.
Good luck
Chaz
AnswerID: 127157

Reply By: Shane (QLD) - Sunday, Aug 28, 2005 at 11:33

Sunday, Aug 28, 2005 at 11:33
Thanks to all & a nice setup Chaz. The battery that I was thinking of using is a 600 cc standard with the normal caps. I looked at the sealed batteries but was told that they still vent out of small holes in the side ( at top) of the battery. Even if I only get 10 amps to the battery on a 12 hour trip than that would be more than sufficient to maintain the battery, as it will be charged by a gen set for a couple of hours on a daily basis once at my destination. I take it that once the two batteries on the vehicle reach a charged level the voltage regulator should cut down the charging rate so as to not do any damage, apart from gassing myself or ending up like the "Hindenburg". The other reason for using the above battery is this will be the existing unit from the vehicle & I intend to buy a new one to replace it.
AnswerID: 127168

Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Sunday, Aug 28, 2005 at 12:27

Sunday, Aug 28, 2005 at 12:27
Shane,

A 600CCA cranking battery will draw anything up to about 30amps at while the vehicle is running (14.2 volts). The total circuit must be capable of handling this sort of current and more. It is also nice to not have the battery connected while cranking the vehicle, so a self-resetting circuit breaker would be necessary. You may also want to consider what would happen if any of the wiring should short-circuit - I use fusible links at each battery.

And finally if you're planning on storing a wet cell battery inside the vehicle, consider what may happen in a prang. Firstly, how is it secured, and what happens to the leaking sulphuric acid in a rollover. Wouldn't want it leaking on someone trapped in the vehicle.

Sorry to be a pessimist, but theres good reasons why an auto-electrician wouldn't consider doing what you've planned.

Cheers
phil

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FollowupID: 381709

Reply By: Shane (QLD) - Sunday, Aug 28, 2005 at 17:58

Sunday, Aug 28, 2005 at 17:58
Phil G,
For a starter the battery is protected by fuse's in the box. The battery will have a Diode/Fuse & also a switch to stop the battery current flowing back to the socket. The battery will be well placed & secure. Most batteries draw high current but can still be charged by a small 4 AMP battery charger, so I don't know what your on about. I am not starting the vehicle off this battery, so where is the big current draw of 30 amps.And it was an Auto Electrician that gave me the idea. In fact he had a bank of 3 heavy wet cell batteries in Paralell in the back of his High Ace for slave starts & I might add they were not even tied down. When I asked him about the hydrogen from charging, he said, well they have been in the back for 5 years & I'm still here. So is there anything else that you would like to know as you seem to be QUIET KNOWLEDGEABLE on the subject. Cheers.
AnswerID: 127204

Follow Up By: Jimbo - Sunday, Aug 28, 2005 at 20:56

Sunday, Aug 28, 2005 at 20:56
Shane,

If you're taking advice from an Auto Elec who gets around with 3 unsecured wet cells in the back of his car, I would suggest seeking advice elsewhere.

That is simply dangerous. He is taking enormous risks and the fact that he hasn't had significant problems so far is good luck, nothing else.

Anyway, your life, your choice.

Cheers,

Jim.
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FollowupID: 381748

Follow Up By: Spade Newsom - Monday, Aug 29, 2005 at 22:42

Monday, Aug 29, 2005 at 22:42
All the auto elects I spoke to about setting up dual battery would not touch putting a battery in the cabin, whether it gel cell or wet. Against the law they told me. Good chance of blowing up they also mentioned. It only emmits gas when charging or discharging so simply transporting is a whole lot safer as long as it is tied down well.

Still legal to charge an AGM within the cabin I believe although this will probably change as they can give of some gas when boiling as mentioned by some one above.

Don't charge your wet cell within the vehicle cabin no matter what your auto elec told you. He has got rocks in his head. Remember also a hiace has a fairly large cabin area and the gas will dilute in the air significantly more than even say a 4 x 4 wagon. Don't know the maths on dilution, maybe someone else does.

good luck.
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FollowupID: 381877

Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Tuesday, Aug 30, 2005 at 11:20

Tuesday, Aug 30, 2005 at 11:20
Hi Shane,

Its good that you've come on the forum to sort this out. There are very good reasons why no one else would do what you're doing.

>> For a starter the battery is protected by fuse's in the box.

Normally we don't put fuses between two batteries, because when they blow, the second battery will no longer get charged and you'll completely flatten the battery. Usually use a self-resetting circuit breaker, or fusible links to protect against short-circuit. Also many fuse holders have resistance of their own, and corrode.

>> The battery will have a Diode/Fuse & also a switch to stop the battery current flowing back to the socket.

The diode will be a problem - it will reduce the charging voltage by 0.7 volt, so charging will be twice as slow; secondly, the diode will most likely not handle the recharging current that wants to go to the second battery so will most like go poof.

>> The battery will be well placed & secure.

What stops the battery acid dripping out in a rollover? Thats one reason why SLA batteries are safer inside a vehicle.

>> Most batteries draw high current but can still be charged by a small 4 AMP battery charger, so I don't know what your on about.

hehehehe Thats OK. When you apply 14.2 volts to a 600cca battery it will take current (recharge). That initial current will be as high as 30amps, so can easily blow fuses or exceed the rating of your switch. An alternator recharges a battery stacks faster than a 4amp charger because it can maintain the 14.2 volts. Its very hard to get a 4amp charger to deliver more than 2.5amps.

>> And it was an Auto Electrician that gave me the idea.

I'm dumbfounded. He likes living on the edge.

>> When I asked him about the hydrogen from charging, he said, well they have been in the back for 5 years & I'm still here.

In scientific terms this is a "series of one". Will never prove a thing.

Best of luck, keep listening, it sounds like you're getting there.

Cheers
phil
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FollowupID: 381926

Follow Up By: Shane (QLD) - Thursday, Sep 01, 2005 at 07:47

Thursday, Sep 01, 2005 at 07:47
Jimbo,
Am now half way through putting in a dual battery setup in the front with a Redarc Solinoid so this should keep the dogs at bay. The battery box will still be used, but only as I stated before & charged by the genset.
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FollowupID: 382296

Reply By: Mike DiD - Sunday, Aug 28, 2005 at 20:42

Sunday, Aug 28, 2005 at 20:42
1. If you connect a battery (not a Gel Battery) via a diode it will charge extremely slowly.

2. If you connect a discharged battery, it will draw at least 30 amps initially.

3. Sealed batteries (AGM, Gel) have valves so no gas escapes except under serious over-charge.

4. Alternators can't sense the state of charge of batteries connected to them - they just put out a constant voltage. Whether they are putting out 1 amp or 100 amps, they have no idea whether this is going to batteries or loads - alternator, batteries and loads are all connected together. When the Alternator heats up it reduces the voltage, assuming that the battery is also heating up and needing less voltage.

AnswerID: 127231

Follow Up By: Shane (QLD) - Monday, Aug 29, 2005 at 06:49

Monday, Aug 29, 2005 at 06:49
Thanks for all your advice. It would appear to me that the safest way out of using my wet cell is to charge it at home on a charger, use it at the destination & charge it with the gen set when needed.
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FollowupID: 381782

Reply By: Member - Mozza (NSW) - Monday, Aug 29, 2005 at 08:50

Monday, Aug 29, 2005 at 08:50
shane.. when you say you want to use it 'away' from the vehicle.. how far is that ?
I have chopped the ends of a 30 metre extension chord... and wired on a female & male 12volt plugs to either end ... and run it out from my rear power outlet (which is connected to dual battery system) when camping in a place that has those damn timber logs in the way... or on picnic days etc... very good with the flouro light too....
i thought it may pose problems with power loss over such a long distance... but being 'normal' power cable .. it must be thick enough to hepl with voltage drops?..
anyway.. that does the job for me...
i try to leave the Fridge in the car though when camping.. due to one thing .. thieves.
AnswerID: 127262

Follow Up By: Shane (QLD) - Monday, Aug 29, 2005 at 15:14

Monday, Aug 29, 2005 at 15:14
Mozza,

Unfortuneately the place where I'm going will have no 240V power & I need to have the fridge going for at least 6 hrs while away from the campsite. I don't wish to leave the fridge in the back of the vehicle during this time. Later on at night I can charge the battery back up with the genset, while still running the fridge from it via a 240v/24vdc transformer. (To all those that are going to say what about the thieves, it's a cattle & sheep property & even if the fridge was taken he wouldn't carry it far with that much lead in his a--se). I may end up putting in a dual battery system just to be safe & as you say I could make up a lead as a backup should I have genset problems.
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FollowupID: 381820

Follow Up By: Member - Mozza (NSW) - Monday, Aug 29, 2005 at 15:29

Monday, Aug 29, 2005 at 15:29
just out of curiousity... why do you need a battery backup when you can run it off your genny ?
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FollowupID: 381822

Follow Up By: Shane (QLD) - Tuesday, Aug 30, 2005 at 08:59

Tuesday, Aug 30, 2005 at 08:59
Mozza,

I don't want to run a genset 24 hours a day, & the thing would probably run out of fuel before I returned. It's a Bunnings Special 2 stroke 850 watt & I don't know how reliable they are.( besides, can't have hot beer, frig the food, can always get a bit of underground or above mutton).
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FollowupID: 381897

Follow Up By: Jimbo - Tuesday, Aug 30, 2005 at 17:14

Tuesday, Aug 30, 2005 at 17:14
Shane,

I suggest you get a mutilmeter and check the voltage output from your gennie. I checked a Bunnings job I had for a while (actually had two) and it was around 19 volts. This will knacker your battery.

I did however hook up a 30 amp battery charger to the 240 volt outlet and it worked fine. If you're going to charge your batt from one of these cheap gennies I would recommend the 240 volt outlet through a battery charger. For it to be effective you're going to need to buy a large capacity charger and they're not cheap.

Running an $80, 6 amp job (which is not likely to give more than a constant 4 amps) is not going to give you a lot of charge from 6 hours running the gennie.

Cheers,

Jim.
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FollowupID: 381972

Follow Up By: Shane (QLD) - Thursday, Sep 01, 2005 at 07:37

Thursday, Sep 01, 2005 at 07:37
Jimbo,
I have a multimeter & you are right in regards to the output, but thats to a no load situation & drops to 14.7v when connected to the battery.
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FollowupID: 382294

Follow Up By: Jimbo - Thursday, Sep 01, 2005 at 20:53

Thursday, Sep 01, 2005 at 20:53
Shane,

14.7 may be still a little too high. It will probably get higher as the load drawn from the battery drops.

Jim.
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FollowupID: 382431

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