Urgent advice required

Kim,

I can only help you with the 15amp lead question. I have had for 8 -9 years, a 15amp female plug on a 10amp lead and male plug with no side effects from this setup. The lead is used on average 300 days per year on genset power and mains power so I can't see why you couln't do the same. I do NOT have a 15amp lead at all.
I am no sparky so an electrician's advise should be taken over mine

Cheers Trevor.

Thanks Trevor,

Did you change one plug , or file the male 15Amp end down?

Regards
Kim

Kim,
Firstly with the 15 amp plug - I also simply cut the 15 amp plug off and replaced it with a 10 amp - used it hundreds of times and never had a problem
Reference the Anderson plug I have an off road camper with an 80watt solar panel.
I have a circuit running from the alternator to an Anderson plug to the tow bar. This circuit then runs to a switch in the boot. I have the option of recharging the 2 deep cycle batteries in the boot via the Anderson (when the motor is running) and when I stop (maybe to go shopping etc.) I switch over to the solar panel. If it's a sunny day I leave the switch on solar and charge the batteries that way. When the van is parked at home between trips I leave it switched to solar and then always have fully charged batteries. I'm in Queensland and had my system fitted by Springers. Give them a call for any advice
Peter

Hey Kim,

Read this article and then ask further questions if needed...

http://www.caravanandmotorhomebooks.com/articles/cable_rules.htm

Regards

STuart

Some 10 amp double adaptors will take a 15 amp earth pin with a bit of a push.

(QUOTE) I have an 84 Watt Solar Panel which will be required to charge the battery in car and van (in isolation).
How can I set up Anderson plugs to charge the vehicle and camper van separately? (end quote)
Just a thought... an idea... or a similar method as I use, call it what you like?

Connect the battery in the van to the battery in the car, use THICK battery lead to avoid voltage drop, use the anderson plug at the towbar to connect/disconnect. (this will charge the van battery when you drive)

Connect a battery isolator between the two batteries, near the start battery. (this will stop van battery from taking power from start battery when you are camped and the van battery is still attached to the start battery via the Anderson plug)

Connect the Solar panel (if on the vehicle roof) to the van battery via a decent solar regulator to the lead between the van battery and the isolator. (this will put power into the van battery when you are camped, and if you use a Redarc or Rotronics isolator system or similar design, not pirahna or similar with internally PREconnected leads, but any isolator that you have to actually attach the cables directly to a bolt on the isolator you can then use a small 'jumper' wire to also charge the starter battery at the same time as the Aux battery when you are camped for long periods or as required)

When the solar is connected in this method it will allow power to the start and also van battery when you drive and the alternator will also charge the start and van battery because the solar regulator will stop power going to the solar panel while driving.

Kim. A bit of a lengthy reply. Hope that this helps.
This reply is only related to the 15 amp plug situation.
First you must work out why a 15 amp connection socket has been fitted to the camper. If it just general light & power with a TOTAL load not exceeding 10 amps / 2400 watts then a 10 amp connection will be fine. It would be better to replace the inlet socket with a 10 amp unit. (These may no longer be available, as the only suitable weatherrproof inlet socket in the Clipsal price list is the 435VF15 or the 435VFS15, the latter takes cord extension sockets with insulated pins and an extension shroud. A way out may be to simply replace the "guts" 15 amp inlet socket with a 435 (10 amp) insert.)

A few points.
A 10 amp plug has the same sized active and neutral pins as a 15 amp plug so the current carrying capacity is the same. ie 15 amps.

Some extension leads with 10 amp plugs & sockets are made up of a cable rated at less than 10 amps.

Some 10 amp extension leads are made up of 15 amp rated cable.

All 15 amp extension leads are fully rated to 15 amps.

Using a modified plug / lead may satisfy your requiremebts but can't be considered as safe. You should look at your legal liabilities if say an electrical defect is caused by your non-approved extension lead. In many public places and in industry, extension leads must be regularly tagged and tested in order to be used. A modified lead would not pass a tag & test.

The extension lead must be kept as short as possible & should not exceed 25 metres in length. Length and voltage drop will determine the safe maximum current available from the extension lead. Extension leads, when in use, should be RCD (safety switch) protected.

Make sure that you use an extension lead - with 10 amp plug & socket- that is rated at 15 amps. Available at electrical & building wholesalers. The cheap leads from Bunnings & the like are not 15 amp rated!

Finally, if you are running the camper from your house, you may not be able to have appliances of up to 10 amps running in it if other household appliances are in use on the same circuit that would cause the total current to exceed 15 amps (rewirable fuse) or 20 amps (circuit breaker).

Cheers Tony. Registered Electrical Contractor.