Oil analysis testing, where to get?

Submitted: Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 14:58
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Do you know of a cheap reliable organisation to get motor oil testing done??
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Reply By: Simon C - Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 15:15

Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 15:15
The Catterpillar Dealers (Hastings Deering in Brisbane) along with other large machinery dealers will do it. Cat was approx $40.00-45.00 last time I used them.

There are others as well.....

Simon
AnswerID: 133463

Reply By: Nudenut - Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 15:18

Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 15:18
most oil co's have an Lab for testing oil.....
they also provide the sample bottles...you have to pay for them but
you can get things done such as
water PPM
Acidity
Solids
wear metals
and more!
AnswerID: 133464

Reply By: sensei - Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 15:52

Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 15:52
If you are in WA give OCS a try

Ph 9314 7997
Very good service, price etc
Have been getting oil tested here for a long time as well as the Company I work for.
AnswerID: 133468

Reply By: Austravel - Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 16:22

Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 16:22
Thanks everyone, just checked with Hastings and they are $25 plus GST. Can't complain with that.
AnswerID: 133475

Reply By: Martyn (WA) - Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 16:56

Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 16:56
Austravel,
You can use the BP affiliated company Detecta, the help line is 1800 033 558 sales 1300 1300 27. www.bp.com.au I use them for obvious reasons, not sure of cost. Sometimes it's better to send an original unused sample for analysis so you can trend against a base line. If the oil is BP it's easy they already have a base line anything else it's good to know where you start from so you can tend metals contamination oil lubricity loss (not sure if that's the right term) and the cleanliness factor.
You won't get a lot of value from this process until you have a few samples, if you have a porous block and you are looking for moisture content this will stick out but usually when you look at zinc levels and iron levels it's very hard to go "$hit the big ends are worn". It will tell you how good or well an oil is lubricating the engine providing the driving conditions are roughly the same, I'm talking about fanging the vehicle around a race track to having it up on jacks in gear holding revs with minimal load, as extremes.
My opinions and experiences as usual. And yes I am affliated.
Keep the shiny side up

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AnswerID: 133481

Follow Up By: Austravel - Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 17:09

Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 17:09
Thanks Martyn,

What I'm doing is using non genuine filters and what to see how well they are doing the job. Don't want to get to the point where I've caused damage and there's no going back.

Will the data I get from an oil test help me with this??
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Follow Up By: ACDC - Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 20:55

Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 20:55
So you work for BP?
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Follow Up By: Martyn (WA) - Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 22:24

Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 22:24
ACDC, yes, and no I can't do anything about the price of fuel, no can't give you a reasonable reason that will satisfy your discomfort with the prices the way they are, I pay the same as you do.

Austravel,
I changed to a full Synthetic, not BP and I consistently get lower metals content in the oil, the cleanliness factor indicates dirtier so I assume the oil is cleaning muck out, hopefully one day the engine will reach a point of cleanliness that the factor levels off. I use the genuine filter and I change the oil religiously every 5000 k's. When the cleanliness factor gets better I might extend the change period. I have a 2000 3.0 ltr TD so I have to be careful, I don't want to melt anything. I've now got 145 k with no problem, I had the vehicle since 98 k.
I've been checking the Rangie gearbox as well since putting synthetic oil in and that's been better as well. So oil quality does reduce wear particles, how much different a poofteenth of zinc and bronze less in the sample is going to make I don't know, will I notice again not sure. gearbox change is better and seems to be quieter, my be just wishful thinking.
My experiences and opinions as usual.
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Follow Up By: ACDC - Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 22:40

Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 22:40
Why not BP oil?
Maintenance is always cheaper than repairs!
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Follow Up By: Martyn (WA) - Saturday, Oct 08, 2005 at 00:20

Saturday, Oct 08, 2005 at 00:20
ACDC,
Why not BP oil? The BP oil doesn't now meet the Nissan spec, well not the normal mineral oil spec anyway. Nissan now specify a semi synthetic oil for the 3.0 TD. I chose to go to a full synthetic which exceeds the Nissan spec. Exactly as you state "maintenance is cheaper than repairs"
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Follow Up By: macka - Saturday, Oct 08, 2005 at 11:33

Saturday, Oct 08, 2005 at 11:33
Hi Martin WA.
I use full Synthetic in my 3ltd .2002 mod. Caltex Havoline 10-50..
Change every 10K. with Nissan filter. Nissan WON"T cover warranty on engine if using aftermarket ones. (That's courtesy of Nissan Head Office in Vict..)
Oil stays clean right through to the 10. Requires 3 or 4 changes from mineral to get there though. use in Manual Trans. Not diff's.
Caltex say can go to 20K but not me. 10K is sweet.
Costs roughly the same as changing Mineral oil at 5K. $160 a 20ltr drum. 1 filter x1 oil change compared to 2 of each the other way.
It's much better for car and environment.
Regards
Macka.
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Follow Up By: ACDC - Saturday, Oct 08, 2005 at 18:00

Saturday, Oct 08, 2005 at 18:00
BP have told us Vanellus C6 global plus meets the new Nissan spec's.
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Follow Up By: Martyn (WA) - Saturday, Oct 08, 2005 at 19:28

Saturday, Oct 08, 2005 at 19:28
ACDC,
You are correct, BP Vanellus C6 PLUS, the PLUS is the important bit, a lot of the local servos only sell the Vanellus C6 which doesn't meet the spec. Seeing Macka mentioned the brand I use Royal Purple 10w-40 full synthetic because I'm the WA agent, works for me.
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Reply By: Outnabout David (SA) - Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 19:36

Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 19:36
Austravel,

Excuse my ignorance but if you are using non genuine filters then paying for an oil test wouldn't this work out as expensive as a genuine filter and you don't have the hassle plus if you haggle and bulk buy there are huge savings can be had on genuine filters. eg Diesel cruiser filters are about $45 but buy in 10 and just about any dealer will sell them at $27 plus you can get tyem on the internet as well.
AnswerID: 133517

Follow Up By: ACDC - Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 20:58

Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 20:58
There are plenty of good non genuine filters on the market after all toyota/nissan etc don't make there own filters.
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Follow Up By: Outnabout David (SA) - Saturday, Oct 08, 2005 at 20:09

Saturday, Oct 08, 2005 at 20:09
Well accadacca,
I didn't say that that some good aftermarket ones weren't out there. Was just commenting on the all up cost with testing probably not being economical. If you were testing to go out to longer oil change intervals I could understand it but every 5 or 10K would be defeting the purpose.

How do you know a good aftermarket from a bad? Anwer the bad one will cost you $10K plus for an engime rebuild. If you have the genuine one on and that fails then the factory pays for the ancillary damage.
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FollowupID: 387850

Follow Up By: ACDC - Saturday, Oct 08, 2005 at 20:20

Saturday, Oct 08, 2005 at 20:20
Good aftermarket filters are guaranteed by the maker Ryco/Wesfil etc if not don't buy them.
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FollowupID: 387855

Follow Up By: Austravel - Monday, Oct 10, 2005 at 08:55

Monday, Oct 10, 2005 at 08:55
True, but not quite the case for the Nissan 4.2l. There is a large price range in filters from genuine to aftermarket. For example Nissan filters for the GU of this year takes 2 filters at $30 each per 5k service. The GU model only a few years ago used 2 filters at $9-10 each per 5k service. Aftermarket filters are around $22 or if you want to consider it- Z9 filters fit on and the filter size and volume of medium used is exactly the same as that used for the aftermarket replacement Nissan filter and cost $6-7. Plus the aftermarket units have backflow prevention and oil light goes out on start up in a couple of seconds, with geniune filters it can take 20-30 seconds.

So for the sake of an oil test you could save significant amounts on filters each year.
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FollowupID: 388009

Reply By: Outnabout David (SA) - Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 19:38

Friday, Oct 07, 2005 at 19:38
Also forgot to mention you need the proper bottles and tubes or whatever to get the oil out otherwise you will have cross contamination. I work in the ag industry now and the manufacturers supply container, tubing, instruction abnd labels to get analysis.
AnswerID: 133518

Reply By: rusty1 - Monday, Oct 10, 2005 at 22:02

Monday, Oct 10, 2005 at 22:02
hi,
when i owned heavy trucks, every couple of oil changes i used to get an analysis done by castrol. for about $30 you get the containers, oil drain tube, postage paid anywhere within australia, the analysis and a full written report sent to you.
this is quite a cheap alternative then breaking done with a major problem.
one time the report came back with excess parts per million of coolant within the oil, with no visible signs of a problem, i trusted this report and put my truck into the dealer to find the problem, this took quite a while with them eventually metal x-raying the head to find a microscopic hairline crack within the head. i then had the head replaced while at the dealer, saving me a costly roadside breakdown and possible horrendous towing fee on top of getting the head replaced. you do not have to use castrol oil to use this service. after the first analysis, any future ones are all graphed , showing you any wear patterns over a period of time and mileage
if you want to try this, contact me, i have a few on the kits in the garage, i would gladly sell you one for cost
regards
ken
AnswerID: 134030

Follow Up By: Austravel - Tuesday, Oct 11, 2005 at 08:45

Tuesday, Oct 11, 2005 at 08:45
Hi Ken,

Thanks for the info and the offer. Since Hastings are close by I think I'll just go through them. Not sure if I'll make this a regular thing or a one off to see how the filters are going.

Thanks again.
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FollowupID: 388172

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