Screwing an HF in

Sorry Dave have no idear

60 metres of the stuff should hold it in place..

All the best
Eric

No 10 metres would be just fine the other 50 metres you can use for strange acts btween you and your missus (or hire one if she wont be in on it)

Can I have a look at the catalog.

All the best
Eric

Hi,
I agree with a proper firm mount..just think of the vibrations you feel going over the ruts..the velcro..ties..glue thing are good but how long will they last when you really get into it?..I done a trip thru the Garden of Stones on the weekend and when I got home noticed my radio was hanging down from the mount under the left side dash of the driver,I had two screws and as a vibration mount I glued with sikiflex lasted about 12 months..so a good firm mount with locktite or spring washers is the way to go.
JD

2nd mention of this - yes I think so. The box under the seat will be held in place to some extent by the tight fit so I reckon ataching it to the seat will work

Thanks - I think I may have problems not running the ariel under the trim away from the power wire but I will now look into it. Negative is body earthed - Can I earth the box by splicing the box earth into the power earth or should i earth it seperatly? I intend to aditionally body earth the ariel as work vehicles i have had been set up this way

Davoe
Ideally a seperate earth as it is to actually earth the case rather than the 'guts', helps stop interference more than actually stop anything working.
You've got a diesel cruiser from memory so will probably have a loud whine that changes with engine revs when it is running. It is caused by the sender for the oil light, a 1.5uf cap soldered between the centre and the case should stop it.
The interior fan will also cause noise, never bothered trying to shut it up just turned it off.
If you want to be really keen put copper braid (preferably tinned) between the bonnet and body, doors and body and exhaust (at the rear mount) and body. It stops the static buildup when zooming along the road.
A regular 'chopping' noise in the radio reception is usually caused by the CPU in the GPS if it is connected to the same power source.
If you are the habit of running a UHF CB in scan then you may find it stops around chan 35, this can be caused by CPU in HF.
Have fun, get any weird things give me a yell.

I'm with you mate....

I actually mounted mine in the back of the Patrol, side on along the rear quarter panel. I removed the long plastic moulding from the driver's side that acts as a holder for cans and other stuff and fabricated a bracket which uses the 2 bolts which originally held in the 3rd row seat on that side.
Having it down the back keeps it up high and also makes it easier to connect the aerial....in my case I've mounted that on the back door, out of harms way.

If you really MUST mount it under the seat, I think the bloke who suggested to remove the seat and make up some flat steel brackets to utilise existing seat-mounting bolts etc is on the money. I would not want to be screwing tech-screws into the floor either. If you do decide to bolt it to the floor, why not do the job properly with stainless steel bolts, washers, silicone etc......you'd still be wanting to do that in the form of a base-plate bracket bolted to the floor which would NEVER need to be removed. That way, if you ever need or want to take the HF out of the vehicle (even when you sell it), the bracket and base plate can remain there and there will be no nasty issue with holes that need to be sealed or have rubber grommets placed in them etc.

Cheers

Roachie

er ....fergot to say.....wherever it goes, let it breath ! There is some heat to get rid of at times and you may be travelling in hot areas too ! Maybe 40 C, sunlight, hot floor and 100 watts !

i absalutly hate rivets and usually replace them with screws when they fail. No water crossings in the feilds as it hasnt really rained in over 5 years. I will not be trimming any of the cords back howerver as when the need arises (eg a cape york or another kimberly trek) I will move the unit to a better spot but that will take alot more effort to hide cords

I like rivets as long as they are strong enough - which is why I suggested the 3/16th steel ones. They don't rattle loose on the rough stuff. Aluminium ones are useless.