GU Wheel Studs

Can't help you, as I've never suffered any broken studs..........but you've reminded me that I MUST go out and buy 2 full sets (front and back are different)....cheers and good luck.
Roachie

Hi Peter,
Bough aTroopie many years ago and the rear wheel studs on one side sheared off within a week of purchase. I returned the vehicle for repairs and they fixed it but not the underlying problem; wheel bearings were shot, and nearly came to grief travelling up the highway when they sheared again! Get it checked.

Brian

Peter

Mine did the same. I was about 50 km from Marble Bar on an irregularly used track. Lost the whole lot on a creek crossing, luckily it was dry. Mine was the rear drivers side.

Missus took the other vehicle we were travelling with into Marble Bar and rustled up some old ones from a GQ that some locals were wrecking. Five hours in a creek bed in 35 degrees wasnt fun.

Must replace them all before heading off again.

I am going through this at the moment 5 broke on drivers side and 3 on passenger side.
I am taking the mechanic to the motor traders association as I was told this shouldn't happen by 3 other mechanics if the dowels are still in place.
They say the cause is over tightening when refitting.

All the best
Eric

And how much more than GVM does the vehicle weigh?
Modern vehicles are made to a price and minimum standards for the proposed load, exceed them and you will break it.

Most of us know (usually from the school of hard knocks) that,when we get our rig back from tyre shop,we manually loosen and re-tighten all wheel nuts,elimainating the distinct possibility of over-tightening,together with the end result of stud failure or total thread "lock up"..I always (now) use a little motor-cycle drive chain aerosol water-resistant lube on all studs which,at least solves the hig pressure metal to metal lock up..(Many boaties will have had total thread "lock up" when they have,for instance,replaced bolts in the craft,with 316 stainless fasteners.On fitting a 316 Nyloc™ nut,no problem,but when trying to remove the nut is when the problem sets in.No chance! Will usually just shear off.Threads hav to all intents and purposes,welded together.End of story.Nice if it was a stud.Using a 304 stainless component on the 316 shaft solves the problem)..Always check the champher on the wheel nuts is similar to that on the exposed face of the wheel hole..Use of "blind","pretty" nuts is best for those using the rig as a "Kindy Kar" as,for a start,the driver cannot see at a glance if the nuts are ok.Worse still,as debri has no escape,the nut may tighten by torque settings untill it is "bottomed out" on the stud top,or if fluid is in the blind nut,a hydraulic situation may cause an "apparent" tightening of the nut to wheel surfaces,when,in fact,the hydraulic pressure had taken effect..Take care..But have fun..RockyOne

The vehicle is an ex Dept of Education one. It had a lot of red dust in it when I bought it (50000km on the clock at the time). Seems the drivers side rear on a few vehicles have had the same problem (mine was also the drivers side). The car does have a Kaymar dual rear wheel carrier and ARB roof rack but apart from that was virtually empty the few weeks before the studs died.
The tyres are still under warranty (Coopers) so therefore have to be rotated etc. by the tyre mob but in future I will redo all the nuts myself when I get it back.
Now will spend a few hours over the weekend removing the other 3 wheels and checking the studs.
Thanks all the advice. Have a great Christmas and hope your nuts stay tight

I had the same experience recently with a GU, it damged the alloy rim beyoned repair and damged the camper trailer.

After searching around on sites I found this problem is not uncommon. This seems to occur with alloy rims and not steel. The main reason is the steel rims apply a certain amopunt of spring pressure on the nuts due to the area where the nuts tighten, this area does not touch the disk, therefore it has a certain amount of constant pressure. Alloys do not have this and therefore rely on the torque of the nuts only, if there is slight movement between the rim and disk this becomes worse overtime and leads to wear or shearing of the studs.

Cheers

Hi, Have never broken a stud or actually seen one break in any vehicle and I certainly gave my GQ a hard time with plenty of weight. May look at buying some spare studs just in case though.

You should never, never put any lubricant on wheel studs. Doesn't matter what a mate says, your dad's always done it, the local mechanic told you, etc. They are designed to lock at a specified torque with no lub on a clean surface. Remember they don't have spring washers, double nuts, etc so to be sure they lock/bind on the thread don't use lub of any sort.

I have seen quite a few studs break on a number of different vehicles, including a Honda Accord.

The main cause is incorrect torqu on the wheel nuts. The solution is to check with the manufacturer of the vehicle and get a torque specification for them. Then use your torque wrench and do them up right. No lube, just the right torque. On a GQ that is 80ft/lb. Not very much really, once youv;e got it right check it on a regular basis.

Duncs