Accurate way of setting torsion bars.
Submitted: Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 02:29
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Dan
This weekend im going to have a go at adjusting my torsion bars on my rodeo.
I'm after some tips on the best way to get them even. At the moment the front right side of my car sits lower than the other. I want to even them up and jack it up a little.
One way i was thinking, is to wind both of them up as far as possible, then work backwards by easing off the tension on each, cranking them down both the same amount.
Is this safe?
Or is there a better way?
Thanks
Dan
Reply By: Member - Oldplodder (QLD) - Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 09:02
Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 09:02
Each bar may have settled or lost some spring tension differently, so trying to work from a common mark such as fully wound may not work.
If you want to lift the right side, try say 2 turns, bounce the car a couple of times and see where it settles.
It is a trial and error job.
At least where they are now you have some idea of the ide height on each side, and the relationship one ot the other. You will loose that starting from fully wound :-)
In regard to torsion bars, I like them.
After all a coil spring is just a torsion bar wound helically, but you can only adjust a coil by replacing them!
I have 2 cars with torsion bars, the front of the pajero and the rear of the beetle.
The beetle has 40 splines one end and 42 the other, you have to count splines which is even more fun, each spline being 9 or 8.6 degrees.
The front of the pajero is like yours, bolt adjustment at one end, a lot easier.
Wish the pajero had the 9" of
suspension travel the beetle has though, and a little bit if a play on the rear fo the beetle adjusting stops and I can get 12".
AnswerID:
143965
Reply By: Exploder - Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 19:24
Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 19:24
Jack the basted up so both front wheels are hanging free, Equal amount of turns on both torsion bar adjuster bolts (I think I did 6 turns on
mine) plus a bit more for the drivers side.
Then drop it down drive around
the block and
check the height and re-adjust if necessary also look at the angle on the CV’s and make sure you are happy with it, and then take it down for a wheel aliment.
AnswerID:
144072
Reply By: CAMERON LANCELEY - Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 22:21
Thursday, Dec 15, 2005 at 22:21
Dan,
I ve been through the process of what you are talking about, and assuming it is a 4X4,if you value your tyres, and dollars, take it to a GOOD mechanic with wheel alignment equipment and get it done professionally.
When you lift the front of the vehicle by winding up the bars, you also change the wheel camber , and to bring that into correct measurement, the mechanic will most likely have to remove(or add) some of the shims that are used to set the camber and castor which are held in place by the mounting bolts for the upper
suspension arms.He might also have to adjust the tie rods for your toe in/out as it all gets affected, and the only way you can measure it properly is with a good alignment machine and a mechanic who knows how to do a GOOD job.
Dont waste your time with the Bob Jane/ Beaurepairs/type franchises as they will not spend the time to do it properly.
Depending on the year model you have , I could give you various measurements that I was given by Holden mechanics, like the height between the lower
suspension arm and the rubber bump stop, or the measuremants from the manual, but they do not take into account the age of your torsion bars, or the relative sag on the right hand side from every mile your car has driven with a bum in the drivers
seat.
If you are in
Sydney I can give you the name of the workshop that did
mine for me and finally got it right. they are used to working on race vehicles. Other wise, good luck.
"sails"
AnswerID:
144094