oils

Ozi, this is excellent info, I too will investigate the bypass filter. adrian, I had experience with both mineral and synthetic oils in my diesel Jackaroo. the mineral was 10W40 and the syn was 5W50.
It made a noticeable difference in cold starting (easier with syn) and the engine seemed to be more free revving. Unfortunatly I did not keep log of fuel consumption before and after. The dealer informed me that I can extend the servicing with the syn. The down side is that it costs more than the min.
Good luck

Ozi what bypass fliter do you use on the Triton. Believe you said your oil was like new after 10000km's. Not black. Have a hilux turbo diesel with a Z334 on it. Half bypass half full flow. Oil better than the last hilux with a Z9 on it, but not like new.

Godsy have not had it long enough on this Triton.
A Z9 is no subsititute for a Z334 or any other diesel oil filter. No oil looks like new after 10,000k's however, it is not jet black like some engines after 500k.
I have previously used Amsoil bypass filters and now using a Baldwin because of product availability. Both are similiar specifications. Unfortunatly Ryco don't make a unit like this yet.

Did you read the URL's?

What did you think?

I'm interested ozi but $$$ have a lot to do with it. What do these filter set ups cost? URL's would be handy if you got them.

Misread ozi thought you were going to give me more URL's. Not did I read them. Like the idea of not having to change oil all the time. Hate doing it! Good oil and a good filtering system I would be willing to go 20000km's before oil change.

Goodsy about $150 including all fittings.
I bought the filter head and replacement filters from
www.unitedfilters.com.au
The person I dealt with was a Keith Lange who replied promptly.
Besides buying the filter and the filter head, you need to get from a VDO supplier, normally Repco a VDO 'T' piece approximately $20.00 max. Whits this 'T' Piece you can remove your oil pressure switch, screw in the 'T' piece, screw your oil pressure switch back in, and the other port is a 1/8NPT which allows you to take the oil line to the bypass filter. To get the oil back into the engine, contact your motor vehicle company or the service manager of the franchised dealer who under their agreement with their franchise will find out the best port/place to get the oil back into the engine. A hydraulic place will be able to supply you the necessary hoses to hook the filter up.

Goodsy, if you are a person that changes vehicles every 60,000k's or two years, then this is not worthwhile. However, if you intend to keep the vehicle for a while and look after it to have minimum repairs and maintainence this system means big savings long term. Unfortunatly with maintainence expenses, they always appear to be outgoings, but the proof is there that the longevity of your engine is substantially improved.

Goodsy, I would really suggest you do some research online to find out about these systems and how much synthetic oil and bypass filters can save you. Synthetic oil is the only viable and cost effective method of reducing repairs and improving fuel consumption and reliability.

$150 is cheaper than I thought it would be. Don't know how long I will keep the hilux. Cannot afford to change every 60000 thats for sure. Will look in to the system mentioned. Only had hilux 4 days. Going away in 4 weeks. To much to do in to little time. Thanks for the info Ozi.

Goodsy if this is a new Hilux changing to bypass filter and synthetic oil all at once on the first service is recomended.

Have I got to do anything when going from mineral to synthetic. Heard these two don't mix to well.

Goodsy no nothing special at all. Synthetic oils are fully compatible with mineral oils.
When you go from mineral to sythetic, take it for a good drive to get well warm, park on slight slope so as much oil as possible will drain out, and give it plenty of time to drain out. You cannot but help notice the improvment after changing. The gearbox in feel alone of smoothness is often quite surprising. With engine, gearbox and diffs on synthetic a 5%+ saving in fuel consumption is not unrealistic at all. Quality always pays.

you mean www.mobil.com.au !! Mobile is a wee bit different

Peter, you are correct in what the manual says about not using CG rated oil. I have researched 'why not' extensively and result on oils is surprisiing to me in that 'latest spec is not the best' for the motor. CG4, I believe, is for low sulphur diesels, of which australia has not made mandatory. CG4 will not provide the protection against sulphur related residues that CF4 will provide. Also, phosphorous is being reduced in latest spec oils and this additive reduces wear. Why is it being reduced, same reason lead was taken out of petrol.

I live in Darwin and at times I can smell the sulphur dioxide in the diesel exhaust fumes. Do synthetics at extended drain intervals protect against this??? I dont know. But I do know that our fuel specifications are different to european markets where extended oil drain intervals are used.

At the end of the day, I now believe my mate who has been using Valvoline XLD in ALL his engines, petrol and diesel, for the past 10+ years with 'exception' results.

As for synthetic, I use it in petrol cars that run at extended high load but thats all. I have yet to see an oil sample analysis that proves that synthetic results in less wear under normal operating temps at scheduled service intervals. I have seen test results that show that BMW branded oil, which is not latest spec oil, providing same protection as synthetics.

Its hard to get the facts, just my humble opinion on this issue that I still do not fully understand.

Sean