Cleaning GU engine

Submitted: Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 10:51
ThreadID: 29262 Views:2120 Replies:7 FollowUps:3
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Can anybody give me some advice on the best way to clean a 3L turbo diesel engine. I spoke to a chap and he said he justs uses a water high pressure cleaner. He'd been on a lot of dusty tracks and the engine looked great.

I 'm worried if many stuff up computers etc if I start spraying water around. I've heard of this happening in other cars (Camery) and costing heaps to repair.

Happy New year to all.
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Reply By: Truckster (Vic) - Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 11:20

Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 11:20
Take it to shiners and give it the works.

IMWO, if your paranoid just dont spray the high pressure directly onto electrical components use the soap and low pressure bleep
AnswerID: 146079

Reply By: glenno(qld) - Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 11:27

Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 11:27
Buy a 2pac of RP7 or similar from bunnings . I have found them to be the cheapest . Spray the bleep out of everything while the engine is cool for safety . Hose off with a garden hose on jet . Dont go near aternator with hose .
AnswerID: 146081

Reply By: brd - Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 12:07

Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 12:07
I've always just hose the engine when hot, so the water doesn't have a chance to cause any trouble, and take it for a quick drive after. I think this would reduce chances of problems dramatically.
AnswerID: 146084

Follow Up By: macy - Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 13:06

Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 13:06
Don't spray a diesel when hot! The injector pump has such fine tolerences that the diferences in temperature can damage it. Big Dollars!

Cheers Mackie
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FollowupID: 399641

Follow Up By: blown4by - Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 13:16

Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 13:16
You NEVER repeat NEVER hose any engine when hot. Firstly you risk cracking components especially the exhaust manifold and turbo parts as they rapidly cool down from the hosing as the hot metal can't contract fast enough so it cracks just like hot disc brake rotors do when you enter deep water. Secondly the condensation created is more likely to find it's way into the electrical components you are worried about protecting than if you just gave them a surface spray with normal pressure water. I agree with the other reply, just use a good detergent eg Truckwash, CT18 or similar and if using high pressure water keep the actual jet away from anything electrical. You are not likely to do any harm from just normal splash water. This same principal applies if you need to top up your cooling system. You never fill a hot engine, especially an overheated engine with large quantities of "cold" coolant. You either wait for it to cool down sufficiently to safely add the coolant or you hose the outside of the radiator down while the engine is running to cool it slowly and safely. You then, while the engine is idling, SLOWLY (and I mean trickle) add the coolant allowing time for the cooling system to circulate it throughout the engine until it is topped up. If you add too much coolant too fast to an overheated (red hot, paint burning off and smell of burnt oil) you will almost certainly hear a large "crack" and if you do it's all over red rover cause you have most likely cracked the block or at very least the head and then you will be walking or getting towed.
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FollowupID: 399645

Follow Up By: Member - David 0- Sunday, Jan 01, 2006 at 12:24

Sunday, Jan 01, 2006 at 12:24
I do agree with the above advice, but I chuckle when I think of all of those years we drove rally cars for hours on end at 7000 rpm then drove flatout into creek crossings. The engines were so hot that you could read by the exhaust pipe glow when you lifted the bonnet!

Interestingly we never had a problem.
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FollowupID: 399735

Reply By: Martyn (WA) - Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 13:29

Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 13:29
Supersapper,
I use an environmentally friendly cleaner Simple Green, was down with low pressure tap water works a treat. I spray a bit of WD 40 around after I've finished just for good looks and protection for the electrical components.
Keep the shiny side up

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AnswerID: 146088

Reply By: hoyks - Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 13:36

Saturday, Dec 31, 2005 at 13:36
CT18 in a garden sprayer. Spray everything under the bonet and leave it to dry. Sometimes I even wash it off afterwards.
A spray from a garden hose us usually enough to lift the dirt off. I tried a pressure washer once, and it took the dirt off, as well as factory service stickers as well.
AnswerID: 146089

Reply By: Ron173 - Sunday, Jan 01, 2006 at 16:49

Sunday, Jan 01, 2006 at 16:49
Firstly I agree fully with above posts dont do it hot for same reasons.

I use the degreasers that you buy in 5ltr and use your own sprayer to apply, big w, supercheap, etc they all sell em, I spray whole engine bay with it (cold) being careful not to directly spray onto electrics, leave for 5mins and hose off with a garden hose on a LIGHT spray again avoiding electrics directly.

My engine always looks new.

Ron
AnswerID: 146205

Reply By: brd - Thursday, Jan 05, 2006 at 14:46

Thursday, Jan 05, 2006 at 14:46
Been off line for several days. My apologies for the comments I made about hosing down hot. I should have been more detailed & specific...so deserve that flack! And I thank those who did comment. By hot, I mean hot to touch, as in driven gently round the block, or 30-40 minutes after a run. That is enough to deter condensation settling anywhere. If you do it dead cold, there's more chance of water getting into electrics. In no way did I suggest that any engine at full operating temperature should be quenched with copious amounts of water, but I should have been more careful in my comments.

With dust, as was the question, a light spray of water is all that is required. I use a small jet nozzle (low volume, high pressure) with finger over outlet to create a fan shape. The spray is directed as required easily, so you can avoid XS water over electrics, etc. Once finished a quick drive to dry it all out ensures no electrical problems. A little Inox, Lanotech or other sprayed on where required might be worthwhile.

Once again thanks to those who picked me up on the shortcomings of my response.

AnswerID: 146578

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