105 Cruiser - ticking sound from Motor (need for worry??)

Submitted: Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 14:13
ThreadID: 30480 Views:13480 Replies:14 FollowUps:13
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Hi all,

I have a 105 series Cruiser with aftermarket turbo. I have noticed that it has a slight ticking (tick tick tick etc... ) sound coming from the motor when you accelerate through the gears. Note - it gets a little quicker and more noticable when accelerating.

The car's only done 90,000klms.

Should I be worried??

Jake
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Reply By: Vivid Adventures - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 14:34

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 14:34
diesel or turbo?

My diesel does this when cold - Toyo dealer says it is tappets.

Ciao for now
Andrew.
AnswerID: 153346

Reply By: Smitty - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 14:43

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 14:43
It's the 1HZ deisel motor with aftermarket turbo.

Tapets...? is this a BIG expence to fix or adjust? Will it be doing any harm?
AnswerID: 153349

Follow Up By: Vivid Adventures - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 14:52

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 14:52
same donk and same noise as mine I would guess.

The toyo dealer says I've gotta expect that - but they would wouldn't they!

Tappets are described here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tappet

I've not asked or looked at how they are adjustable, nor do I know if this will properly fix the problem.

Toyo dealer blamed thinner third party oil (gottaluvem) and suggested that the thicker stuff they OEM may "fix it".

For now, it doesn't bother me that much so I'm not doin' anything about it.

There are sure to be some here who know the internals of the 1HZ and can comment in more detail.

Ciao for now
Andrew.
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Follow Up By: Smitty - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 14:56

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 14:56
Thanks for the thoughts Andrew. I would probably let it go as well (iif not a big problem) except that I'm heading off around OZ in a couple of months - and towing a trailer so want to make sure it's in TOP nick.

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Reply By: traveller2 - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 14:56

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 14:56
Smitty I'd be getting it looked at by a diesel mechanic pronto if only for peace of mind, a ticking noise that increased with revs was the first sign of big end problems with factory turbo's, some went boom not long after including a good friends. The 1HZ is basically the same motor without the turbo, the fitting of which increases the load on the big ends.
AnswerID: 153352

Follow Up By: Smitty - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 15:00

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 15:00
oh no ......... that would be just my luck!

No doubt that is a BIG job to fix ---- before the BANG I mean?
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Follow Up By: traveller2 - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 15:07

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 15:07
Actually it is a very easy job to do before the bang, about $500 in bits and not a lot of labour from what I hear.
Very hard to pick without actually having a look from what I understand, that is why the suggestion to get an experienced bod to have a listen/look asap. I'd reckon most of the bigger 4wd service centres would be able to diagnose.
If it is a loose tappet you can usually tell by the fact that it is high up in the engine bay, try using a big screwdriver as a stethoscope (sp?). Remember though that the rocker cover is plastic on the 1HZ. I found that out very early in my ownership, left a hot soldering iron sitting on the 'alloy' rocker cover!
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FollowupID: 407283

Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:12

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:12
Hi Traveller,

Smitty's problem will not be the big ends.

Factory Turbos (since 1986) have always been a vastly different motor to the normally aspirated diesels. The factory motors are direct injection, and more recently EFI and 24 valve, and internally have many other differences.

The 1Hzzzz normally aspirated motor has not suffered big end problems, even when turboed. The 1990-94 1HD-T motor was the only model withg the big end issue. These motors usually fail without warning.
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Follow Up By: traveller2 - Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 08:05

Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 08:05
What I meant was that the motor's are very similar in basic design and if you fit a turbo to a 1hz it is then subject to the same stress's that a factory donk has without the mods done to enable it to cope with the stress. I've actually seen several 1hz's fitted with turbo's with the big end problem over the years, alll comes back to how it is treated and maintained.
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Reply By: Gerry - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 18:00

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 18:00
From my understanding the 1HZ motor did not suffer from the bad bearings problem. The ticking noise sounds like lifters which should be adjusted periodically. It is probably more crucial for a diesel than for a petrol - or at least that is what I have been told. The adjustment is made by using various thickness shims and while fairly straightforward, may be better left to the experts. Don't know how much but shouldn't be too expensive as it is not that difficult a job.

Good luck
Gerry
AnswerID: 153395

Reply By: Member No 1- Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 18:22

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 18:22
whats a 105 series Toyota?
what am i missing...i thought they were only up to 100 for wagon or 78 for commercial
AnswerID: 153399

Follow Up By: Member - JohnR (Vic)&Moses - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 18:57

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 18:57
like Des Lexic's
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Follow Up By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:28

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:28
Hi Nudie,Theres a whole world of LandCruiser numbers out there just waiting to be pinned on the back of your toilet door :-)) We can test you on it next week:

120series = Current Prado
100 series = Independant front end "100series" (TD and V8)
105 series = Rigid front end "100series" (1Hz and 4.5 litre)
90 series = 3-door Prado
95 series = 5 door Prado
78 series = Troopie after 1999 (and curiously also the original Prado that didn't make it to Aus)
79 series = Cab chassis after 1999
75 series = Troopie or cab chassis from 1985 - 1999
73 series = Mid Wheel Base (usually FRP top up to 1990)
70 series = Bundera
62 series = Petrol 60series from '87-'90.
61 series = Factory TD 60series '86-'90
60 series = All other 60series
55 series = Those rusty ones with drum brakes up to 1980
47 series = earlier troopies and trays to '84
45 series = before the 47 series
42 series = The last of the 40series witrh front discs and power steering on the 2F, and 3B.

We could go back to the 25 series, but this is just some of "what you are missing" :-))))

Cheers
Phil - bored tonight
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Follow Up By: udm - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 22:22

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 22:22
Hey Phil, you forgot the 80series :-))))) Don´t let that happen again. :-)

Ulises
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Reply By: Peter 2 - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 18:40

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 18:40
105 is a solid axle 100 series if that makes sense, tappets are easily done, it is laid out in the gregory's and toyota manuals.
In our local 4wd club we have a member who bought the tool to depress the valves to enable the shim change. the deal was you bought any shims that were required and not in the box, placed any you had left over in the box for the next bod.
We found (across about 1/2 a dozen 1HZ's) that if the tappets were done about 30-40k then they didn't need redoing for about another 100k. We all checked them religously as we had the gear at the recommended interval (40k from memory) and found that once done they didn't change/wear for at least the 100k.
AnswerID: 153404

Follow Up By: Vivid Adventures - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 19:28

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 19:28
Great info Peter.

Was a new gasket required for the rocker cover?

Was it a Toyota tool, or is it something every good mechanic will have?

Ciao for now
Andrew.
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Reply By: Peter 2 - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:17

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:17
The tool is a special Toyota tool but ones from other vehicles may fit, from memory the tool wasn't horribly expensive especially when the cost was shared around.
no gasket required unless you stuff the old one, it is like a fat moulded O ring.
AnswerID: 153453

Reply By: Member - John L G - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:22

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:22
Smitty

True confessions -time to come out and confess!

I have had a 75 series for 10 years now, 160kkm, which is safari turboed and I also have a slight ticking noise but it's not the motor but the clutch plate or some such thing. Every one has had a go at diagnosing the fault with no solution.

Can you hear it when you are idling in the driveway with your foot off the clutch and if so does it dissapear when you press the clutch in as if to change gears, because mine does and only makes the noise when the clutch is released. It personally isn't loud enough to bother me but will be interesting when it comes clutch time to see if it disappears.

Thats my two cents worth.

John G
AnswerID: 153458

Reply By: Member - Phil G (SA) - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:38

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 21:38
Smitty,

You don't need the special tool to check the clearances - only if one of them needs adjustment by changing the shims. I had the same arrangement on the diesel Prado, and checked them the usual way with a feeler gauge. They were never outside specs, so I never needed to take it any further. If they did need adjustment, I'd take them to a mechanic who knows about Toyota shims, and get them to do it

Cheers
phil
AnswerID: 153467

Reply By: 100 Series - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 23:00

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 23:00
I have 2001 Std diesel and have a turbo fitted. Mine makes a noise similar to what you are describing around 2100 - 2200 revs. Anything above that or below that it makes no noise.

I had it checked out by a diesel mechanic and he could find no problems. Said it was nothing to worry about
AnswerID: 153495

Reply By: 100 Series - Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 23:00

Monday, Feb 06, 2006 at 23:00
I have 2001 Std diesel and have a turbo fitted. Mine makes a noise similar to what you are describing around 2100 - 2200 revs. Anything above that or below that it makes no noise.

I had it checked out by a diesel mechanic and he could find no problems. Said it was nothing to worry about.
AnswerID: 153496

Reply By: Billowaggi - Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 00:00

Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 00:00
Hi all,
1HZ does not have tappets or lifters the cam runs directly on the valves through cam followers the valve clearance or lash is ajusted by shims. A valve with too much clearance will make a tapping sound at idle, you will not be able to hear it while accelerating.
You'r tapping noise may be light diesel knock or possibly a slightly leaking exhaust manifold gasket.
Regards Ken.
AnswerID: 153513

Reply By: Eric from Cape York Connections - Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 08:19

Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 08:19
Jake you definitely need a rear diff lock to fix this problem.

All the best
Eric

Is that what you whanted to hear. LOL

AnswerID: 153539

Follow Up By: Smitty - Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 08:33

Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 08:33
Morning Eric!

That's exactly what I was thinking - Problem Fixed :)

I received a reply from Peter - he suggested I get a copy of your Cape York DVD.... like the diff-lock it sounds like a good idea!

Jake
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FollowupID: 407459

Follow Up By: Eric from Cape York Connections - Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 09:30

Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 09:30
I didnt even think of the dvd or even ron moons books.

That company I was talking about was

Locked Drive Systems Pty Limited
5 Peel Street, Granville, NSW, 2142, Australia
Phone: +61 (0) 2 9897 7912
Fax: +61 (0) 2 9897 7913

All the best
Eric

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FollowupID: 407464

Follow Up By: Smitty - Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 09:43

Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 09:43
perfect - thanks Eric!
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Reply By: Smitty - Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 08:43

Tuesday, Feb 07, 2006 at 08:43
Thanks to all for your thoughts - I've got the 'little lady' taking it to the Mechanic as we speak ......

He just rang - believe it or not. Doesn't think it's anything for concern. Believes it may be a tick coming from the 3" exhaust I've got running through the ol' girl (hasn't been in all that long). It's going in for a pre-trip inspection and major service early next morth - if I hear otherwise I'll be sure to let you all know.

Thanks again

AnswerID: 153543

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