Towing Hitches for Caravans

Perhaps a good place to start would be with the supplier of the Hayman Hitch or a good tow (bar) specialist. Sounds like you might need some qualified assistance.

Jeff,

A Treg will be harder to get connected. They have to be pefectly positioned.

Cheers,

Jim.

This posting rings minor alarm bells.

Weight distributing hitches act like semi-flexible beams between the towing vehcle and the trailer. Their purpose is to counteract some of the lever effect that causes the towball weight to lift the front of the towing vehicle.

In other words it tries to keep them level.

If however a rig with such a hitch has to climb am extended ramp from a flat surface - as for example an inclined drive-way from a flat road - the hitch will still attempt to keep the two units level. This places huge stresses on the hitch, the 'van drawbar and the rear of the vehicle structure and may seriously damage any/all of them.

Standard WDHs should not, for the same reason, be connected up off-road.

It is not clear from the posting whether the problem is in the initial hitching up - or in attaching the WDH spring bars - but if the latter - these should only be attached when the rig is down on the road - and removed likewise.

Note this is not a real issue with, for example fuel station drive-ways etc - only where the ramp continues for some length such that the towing vehicle eventually form an acute angle.

Having experience with both types, I far prefer the Tregg hitch for both on and off-road trailers. I have them on our TVan and also our general purpose twin-axle box trailer. They need a different technique to couple up but both my wife and I find them much easier to use than ball couplings - and also smoother when towing.

To couple up one positions the car hitch alongside the trailer hitch. Then by adjusting height with the jockey-wheel, the trailer part can be gently eased sideways into position and the tapered connecting pin eased into position.

I believe Tregg hitches are now available for use with WD systems - but you would need to check.
Collyn Rivers
.

Jeff - have you tried hooking the van up and running it doen to the road, and putting the hitch on while the car and van are one the same level?

May have to do the same in CPs depending on the site. Alternatively, at home, use a trolley jack to lift up the back of the car till you get the levellers on perhaps??

Most of all, I like the idea above of talking with a competent dealer.

Max

My guess is that your having trouble removing the standard coupling from the tow ball ie uncoupling when both vehilces are not on the same plane. Check the adjusting screw on the head of the coupling isn't too tight, try loosening it off a little. Also remember if the head of the WDH is adjused so the tow ball sits forward or backwards too much (as viewed from the side) it will cause the problem your experiencing, so check that the tow ball is vertical. (or maybe set it just slightly to the way that will favour your uncoupling in the driveway, remember as you alter the head angle the position of the bars will also alter).

I've not used one but it would appear to me that a Hyland coupling should work fine with the WDH no matter the angle of the tow ball.

cya
Graham

If you are having trouble because the van and the tow vehicle are not on the same plane then put the hitch when on the flat.
The Hyland hitch is a better hitch for an off road van with a level bar or rod system however the sway bars/rods should be disengaged when off road.
The Treg hitch should not be used with a sway bar/rod system as they will wear very quickly.
I have an off road van with a standard 3500kg caravan hitch and have NEVER had any trouble off road. I always take the sway bars off when traversing tracks.
Remember that one is restricted when off road due to ramp over when towing also narrow tracks cannot be negoitated very easily because of the vans cutting of corners.
Yes I do take my van off road within it,s limits. Pic In Members.