Pud's patrol HELP

Submitted: Tuesday, Feb 21, 2006 at 18:37
ThreadID: 31014 Views:1886 Replies:8 FollowUps:8
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New engine put in now we have trouble starting bl**dy thing. It starts OK ish cold but takes about 5 min's when warm! Nissan dealer got a deisle "specialist" to look at it today and he reckons the fuel pump needs replacing! We don't agree. It was fine before the motor blew, so how could the fuel pump need replacing is beyond us. Once going it runs smoothly. Anymore help on this matter would be greatly appreciated as has the other advice been appreciated. I would love to put a dozer through it. Thank's.
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Reply By: Member - David 0- Tuesday, Feb 21, 2006 at 18:50

Tuesday, Feb 21, 2006 at 18:50
so Nissan aren't a diesel specialist? :-)

Reminds me of the time I had the alternator replaced on my rangie by a local mobile auto electrician. I cam home to find a new alternator installed, but the charge light would come on with the engine running but not with it stopped and the key on. I rang him and said i think you have the wires hooked up the wrong way. No way he said, it will be a blown fuse, those range Rovers have fuses everywhere.

So I asked him to come around again and look at it. In the meantime, I got the wiring diagram out, showed him no fuses, and proved it was wired up wrong. I said, so now it will be burned out (diode), so best you replace it FOC. His reply, "the wiring is pretty complicated, I will get a mate to look at it, he is good at this."

I said, "you're a flamin' auto electrician you are supposed to be good at this"

Still can't believe it happened.
AnswerID: 156301

Follow Up By: Pud & Barb - Tuesday, Feb 21, 2006 at 20:03

Tuesday, Feb 21, 2006 at 20:03
makes you wonder where he learnt his trade dosn't it.
Barb.
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FollowupID: 410391

Reply By: desert - Tuesday, Feb 21, 2006 at 19:22

Tuesday, Feb 21, 2006 at 19:22
Take it back to the dealer, leave it and don't pick it up until it has been fixed. Ring them every day and pester them about it. Don't except the vehicle until you are absolutely certain they have done the work. Check the starting yourself, speak to the foreman and the mechanic who worked on it. Get copies of all the invoices for any parts they replace, for future reference. If after a week it has not been fixed, ring the PR department in head office, start annoying them too.
AnswerID: 156308

Follow Up By: Pud & Barb - Tuesday, Feb 21, 2006 at 20:08

Tuesday, Feb 21, 2006 at 20:08
desert,
I plan on ringing head office in the morning. I hope the lady who helped me before can help me again, maybe put some pressure on them and I don't think we should have to pay for it either. We asked them to put the old engine back in, at least the bloody thing would start, even with a hole in the piston.
Thanks, Barb
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FollowupID: 410394

Reply By: 120scruiser - Tuesday, Feb 21, 2006 at 19:49

Tuesday, Feb 21, 2006 at 19:49
I would have the fault codes scanned because it sounds like a faulty coolant temperature sensor.
If it is reading cold all the time it will start easy when cold but be hard to start when hot. If it is coolant sensor it should also run rough or be over fueled when hot but not necessarily. These electronic engines give weird symptoms.
I will have a look tomorrow at work in my electronic fault codes book and see what code is for the coolant sensor and then let you know.

Cheers
120scruiser
AnswerID: 156314

Follow Up By: Pud & Barb - Tuesday, Feb 21, 2006 at 20:14

Tuesday, Feb 21, 2006 at 20:14
Much appreciated.
Pud
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FollowupID: 410399

Follow Up By: hl - Tuesday, Feb 21, 2006 at 21:11

Tuesday, Feb 21, 2006 at 21:11
If there is an error code stored, the engine check light would be on!
If the sensor just shows incorrect temp but within the allowable range for that sensor, no error code would be set either.
In fact, I believe most "performance chip" upgrades simply modify some sensor outputs to make the ECU inject more fuel. So, I doubt that a coolant sensor that is not far enough out of range to set an error code would be the problem.
My first check would be to pump the primer on top of the fuel filter and see if it starts then. If it does, some air is getting into the fuel system. So maybe just some hose clamp not tight.
Cheers
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FollowupID: 410415

Follow Up By: 120scruiser - Wednesday, Feb 22, 2006 at 08:22

Wednesday, Feb 22, 2006 at 08:22
I tend to disagree. Sometimes the check engine light will stay illuminated and other times it will go out but the fault code is stored in the ECU.
The coolant sensor code is 0103.
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FollowupID: 410495

Follow Up By: hl - Wednesday, Feb 22, 2006 at 09:01

Wednesday, Feb 22, 2006 at 09:01
True...
Although it would have come on once and stayed on until the ignition was turned off.
Cheers
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FollowupID: 410501

Reply By: Member - Pezza (QLD) - Tuesday, Feb 21, 2006 at 20:40

Tuesday, Feb 21, 2006 at 20:40
G'day Pud,
Do you have access to the vehicle? If so, try pouring some cold water over the injector pump when it's hot and bothered and doesn't want to start, see if starts easier immediately after the cold water treatment.
The reason I say this is because I have the 2.8lt which is giving me the same problem, easy start when cold, near impossible when hot, was stuck at a shopping centre and coudn't start the damn thing, while I was sitting there fuming I figured if it starts when cold, let's cool the pump down, started almost straight away, have been doing this for a week now whilst waiting to get in the mechanic's.
Everyone says straight away that it's the internals of the injector pump wearing into the housing, which is a common problem with the 2.8's, but I've already had this problem addressed and fixed 12 months ago' and besides, this problem happened within a dozen starts over a couple of days, I figure it takes longer for a slight wearing problem to give a problem than this.
I think it's a sensor of some sort playing up, am hoping the mechanic finds something as he tends to agree with me.
Would be interested in knowing if yours has the same symptoms.
Will let you know if we get to the bottom of my problem.

Avagoodn
Pezza
AnswerID: 156332

Follow Up By: Member QLD Steve & Lorraine Mc - Wednesday, Feb 22, 2006 at 13:06

Wednesday, Feb 22, 2006 at 13:06
G Day Pezza we had 2.8 GU which had the same starting problem ,had the pump done which lasted about 12mths too. We used to sit there a bit longer after the glow light goes out then start it which had a bit of success. Fitted a new battery made a difference too , I think it is electrical somewhere in the pump as it is drive by wire, it must be only something simple maybe give denco a ring they might be able to help you as they know the pumps inside out.

Cheers Steve
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FollowupID: 410534

Reply By: bombsquad - Wednesday, Feb 22, 2006 at 11:30

Wednesday, Feb 22, 2006 at 11:30
I hope this thread gets to the bottom of this. I went through similar events with a motor rebuild then the dealer insisted that the fuel pump needed work as it had trouble starting hot. It did this a bit before the rebuild but the dealer said it wasn't running right and wouldn't start hot. $700.00 later it was solved for a few months, now is exactly the same as it was before the rebuild. Usually turning the key right off and waiting 10 seconds or so lets it start, sometimes requiring some throttle application (not supposed to do that though)

I'm wondering if the disconnect the battery for a while th reset the computer may help this???

Cheers Andrew

PS will probably be fitting the lpg fumigation to the mighty 2.8 during the year, and will submit a report here when its done. I havent found anyone who has done one yet....
AnswerID: 156449

Follow Up By: Member - Pezza (QLD) - Wednesday, Feb 22, 2006 at 20:19

Wednesday, Feb 22, 2006 at 20:19
G'day Bombsquad,
Not sure if you have the Nissan spacer plate already fitted but if not I would try that first, in most cases that has solved the problem indefinately, cost $120 at Motsons or Diesel Fuel Injection Specialist in hamilton, if you're in another state ring around as it is a common fix now.
Puds and My problem have occured after this plate was fitted and wasn't the same problem, same symptoms but diferent problem.
I also suggest getting a Motsons power up module before you go for the LPG, the Motson's is $1500 compared to $2500 for the LPG, I can vouch for the power up module, best thing I ever did to the 2.8, 25% increase in kw and 30% increase in trq.

Avagoodn
Pezza
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FollowupID: 410627

Reply By: Member - Collyn R (WA) - Wednesday, Feb 22, 2006 at 15:36

Wednesday, Feb 22, 2006 at 15:36
This may be a silly reply - but are you allowing time for the glow-plug (presumably there is one) to heat up before attempting to start? If not, then cranking drops the volatge to that plug and starting is delayed.
Collyn Rivers
AnswerID: 156490

Reply By: Member - Pezza (QLD) - Wednesday, Feb 22, 2006 at 20:45

Wednesday, Feb 22, 2006 at 20:45
G'day Pud,
Got mine back today, he got the computer checked for all the codes and nothing came up, so he ended up fitting the second hand pump I'd gotten, the only thing he didn't swap over was a sensor in the side of the pump ( these pumps have three sensors, one in the side, one in the back and another underneath I think it was. ) as the connector had been broken by the wrecker guys (how unusual). It now starts as it should when cold or hot, problem solvered.
The mech initially thought it might have been the sensor in the side, but seeing as it has the same sensor (that was the broken one on the wrecker pump) it obviously wasn't that.
We still think it's a sensor, but not sure which of the other two it is, I left the pump with him to play with, hopefully he can solve the problem.
I also spoke with Tony Motson about it, he seems to think the problem is inside the pump somewhere, but he couldn't figure out how pouring cold water over the pump could solve an internal problem, which is the reason why I think it's a sensor.
We may never find the problem, though I will let you know if he finds anything when he has a play with the pump I left him.
Interesting thing I found out after all this is that I'm definately using the correct mechanic, was quoted $400 by the mob in hamilton to R&R the pump, and 5hrs by Motson's, which equates to a hefty bill at their rates, final cost at Paul Geary's was 2.50 hrs at $167.
Tells me how much some of the others are willing to rip us.

Avagoodn
Pezza
AnswerID: 156551

Reply By: Pud & Barb - Friday, Feb 24, 2006 at 23:46

Friday, Feb 24, 2006 at 23:46
Hi everyone who has been helpful, it's still at the dealers. Pud found a place in Sydney today while he was driving around waiting for a return load, they said they wouldn't do a rebuild without doing the fuel pump as they couldn't guarantee it. Makes sense after reading and listening to everyone we have spoken to. They said to take the pump in when Nissan gets it off and they will test the injectors etc. Why Nissan can't do this is beyond me, but hey, just being the owners of a heap of cr$p what would we know. He also spoke to the guys in the workshop at the depo and they all reckoned it was the fuel pump as well.
Sorry he's not here to reply to you all, he's catching some much needed z'sssss. Done a lot of hours this week.
Thank's guy's
Barb
AnswerID: 156944

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