Hill descents with a automatic.

I think thy may have it in forward

Richard

Yeah I think it is for when you are going forward down a hill, by apply the brakes and using the right boot at the same time it help prevent the wheels from locking up on a slippery decent or something like that. It is done, as obviously the Auto doesn’t have as good engine braking as a Manuel

Never been game to try it myself, Low range with the Auto in First for me, I have ABS so touching the brakes if need be isn’t such a big problem.

In reverse , all you need to do is make sure your in low range and the vehicle will come down at a good speed , as reverse is a lower gear ratio than first.

Most auto's will out do any manual in a hill climb due to the fact that you can change gears whilst climbing.

The method of aplying brake and accelerator , is to lock up the converter to stop convertor slip , only to be used when facing the dirrection of travel.

There is no real set way , some slipery days , all the above info goes out the window. I have had to turn wheels into a enbankment to come down , even had to have the vehicle in reverse spinnoing the wheels backwards on some real terrible days .

At the end of the day it's all expirience , this comes over years , just don't takle big stuff to begin with and more forward from there.

Question from Wayne "If this is a good method why don't we do it in a manual vehicle or am I missing something. "

Answer: Because manuals have 3 pedals and we on;y have 2 feet.

(Foot in mouth - couldn't resist a bit of comedy)

The way I understand it, is when most autos idle slowly down a steep slippery hill under brakes the torque converter is disconnected meaning it's possible for the wheels to lock up & the vehicle slide out of control. By "powering through the brakes" you are minimising the chance of the wheels locking up although additional braking is required. 1800 revs sounds a little high though.
The other braking technique in autos is to drive down a hill in reverse gear using more accelerator to slow down. Normally done with the left foot on the brake but only for very short sections as no doubt it wouldn't take much to overheat the transmission.
Cheers Craig.............

This tecnique is sometimes known as "Drive Over Brakeing". or "Left Foot Brakeing"

As already mentioned the torque converter needs to be spinning to provide any mechanical resistance (engine brakeing). If the torque converter is not 'engaged' then you are efectively in 'neutral' and the vehicle will 'freewheel' with no engine brakeing.

To keep the torque converter 'engaged' you need some revs so a little right foot pressure on the accelerator is required. However, to stop the vehicle actually accelerating you use a little left foot pressure on the brake at the same time, hence the term 'Left Foot Brakeing'.

Start by putting your LEFT foot on the foot brake and applying just enough brake to hold the vehicle - do not press hard. Try easing off till the vehicle just starts to move forward and then apply a tiny bit more brake to hold the vehicle. Imagine having an orange between your foot and the brake pedal but not squashing it.

Now apply a little accelerator till the vehicle just overcomes your light brakeing. If you lift your right foot off the accelerator the vehicle should stop moving forward.

This is driving over the top of the brakes - "Drive Over Brakeing" and works very well in automatic transmission vehicles.

Yep

I use this methid all the time (going forward).

You apply the brake lightly with your left foot and then press the accelarator with your right to "push" the car down hill. If i want to slow down or stop, I simply ease off the accelarator.

This method also gives you the benefit of "the poor mans locker" or traction control
so that you don't spinn wheels as much if it comes off the ground.

R.