Monday, Mar 13, 2006 at 08:48
Hi Tony & Dereck. Don't want to steal your thread but I am doing something similar with my 80 series. I have a Wet Lead acid cranking battery & a Full River AGM deep cycle battery. I have had to move the auxillary power switchboard - using Clipsal DC circuit breakers & an isolation switch - in order to fit an ARB compressor under the bonnet for future diff locks. Anyway, I use 25 square mm tie cables between the batteries so cranking off the auxillary is not a problem. What I am trying to work out are the pros & cons of standard solonoid isolators against smart ones.
Using the Redarc SB112 as an example, I gather that it will isolate the auxillary battery until the cranking battery reaches 13.6 volts and then remain energized (as long as the ignition is on) unless the cranking battery voltage goes below 12.7 volts?
Surely with an alternator output close to 14 volts, the cranking terminal voltage will very quickly reach the nominated 13.7 volts & then energize to enable charging to the auxillary battery? The only circumstance that I can envisage when this may not happen is when the cranking battery is just about stuffed. Am I correct in this thinking?
Am I better off with a non smart (dumb?) solonoid such as the Redarc SL-100 to use for dual battery starting? Or, should I be looking at something with a higher continious current rating? (SL 12-100 & SB112 both being rated at 100 amps continious & 400 amps peak)
PS, as far as I can tell, the 80 series 1HZ diesel motor is pretty basic without serious computer control, thus surge suppression maynot be such an issue? Dereck, the battery article is a good read!
Cheers Tony - VK3CAT
http://www.qsl.net/vk3cat
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